New AGP owner

[IceShadow]

How does the pool look? Keep the FC up at 16 - add enough to get there each time you test.

 

[Teald024]

The pool math app says the SLAM value should be 16. Is this correct? am I supposed to add more? Why is my FC value not going down?

Also, I have a SWG coming soon. Should I compete SLAM before installing the unit? Is it okay to dissolve salt during the SLAM process?

Hello and Welcome to TFP!! Congrats on the new pool.

Yes, you should perform a test for FC and CC using the powder and drops. Then if FC is below the SLAM level, you should add more liquid chlorine to get FC to SLAM level. The FC should go down if it is being consumed by organic stuff and the sun. At a minimum, the sun will remove 2-4ppm of FC each day. How much FC are you loosing each day?

I would recommend finishing the SLAM process before installing the SWG. We suggest not using the SWG while in the SLAM process. Just use the liquid chlorine. Once thing at a time. You can add salt if you want though since it won't effect any thing. Make sure you test for salt before you add it since there will be salt in the water already.

 

[mufjp]

So I did get a chance to backwash/rinse the sand filter twice, which produced a lot of green water. The pump is running 24/7 but sometimes it loses pressure and there is no pressure at the return jet. When this happened, at the clear glass where the filter is, I can see the water level is too low. Why does this happen? I usually turn the pump off for a minute and back on and the water seems to circulate again. I think my SLAM process is losing effectiveness because the pump is not circulating the water 24 hrs a day.

Do you recommend getting a automatic pool vacuum to speed up the process? I’ve been scrubbing the dead algae from the floor everyday but it doesn’t seem like it’s getting any better. Any suggestions?

 

[IceShadow]

As you start you’ll need to backwash more often to clear the filter of the gunk it’s pulling out of the pool water. If it gets too much it won’t let water through and you’ll need to backwash.

 

[Teald024]

The clear glass should only have water flowing through it when you backwash. It is OK that it is half full during normal filtering. When you backwash, run it until the sight glass is clear and then another 30-60 seconds.
The return jets are loosing flow because the filter is filling up, doing what the filter is being paid to do: filter the water. Next time you backwash, note the filter pressure when you're done. That is your clean pressure. Then when the pressure rises 25% above clean pressure, it is time to backwash again. You don't want to go too long or too short between backwashes.

A robot won't help clear the water any faster. That is the job of the chlorine. Then the filter will filter out the dead algae. A vacuum on the hose can help vac and brush at the same time to get the stuff off the bottom.

 

[mufjp]

Ok. Here’s another update.
It’s been hard to test and adjust the water level daily due to me not being home everyday. So, the SLAM is still in process with the water looking really green.

Last night when I tested, the CYA level was too high @70 (forgot to remove the “sock” after a while). The pH was also high at 8.

I added some muriatic acid to lower the pH and drained the pool water about 40% to replace with fresh water to bring the CYA level down.

At this point, do you think it might be worth draining the whole pool to control the algae better i.e. give the pool a fresh start? Or just fill the water back up and continue with the SLAM? I plan on being home everyday to maintain and brush the pool for the next 10 days at least.

My second question is in regards to the Circupool installation. My system is mainly of flex pipes as shown in pictures. Do these need to be converted to PVC before I can install the SWG? I was going to do this DIY so I would like to keep the project simple if possible. I’m in NJ so I plan on winterizing in September and take all the hoses off and store in the shed.

Thanks for your time TFP!

 

[kimkats]

I will take this one part at a time.

-green water-SLAM-draining water- I would drain it down until about a foot is left in the pool then refill it with nice, clean water. You don't want the liner to shift so don't take all of the water out. Make sure you have plenty of chlorine on hand to finish "cleaning" the left over water as there will still be some algae left but it should be easier to clear it up. You can mix the water by walking around in it with a straw broom to get the chlorine all mixed in.

Pipes-I would go all hard PVC pips as they last almost forever where the flex pips can fail. They get pin holes in them or split when they become brittle. You will put valves under the skimmer and return so you can close off the water when you need to. You will also put unions on all of the equipment including the SWG when you install it so you can remove it when you want to.

Kim

 

[mufjp]

Hi Kim,

Thanks so much for your quick response as always. I’ll follow your advice in draining most of the water out and starting fresh again.

This time when the water fills up, I want to use the SWG. Can you tell me what that unit does (circles in the attached photo)?
Can I just install the SWG between that and the heat pump? If the SWG can be between those two, I can see myself replacing it with PVC pipe with unions. But I wouldn’t feel confident taking on replacing a very long pipe from the pool.

 

[kimkats]

Are you talking about the tube thing after the heater? That is what tablets go into. The SWG can take its place. I am going to call in someone to help you with this part as this is my weak area. @ajw22 @Jimrahbe okay guys get him set up with a SWG please!

Kim

 

[ajw22]

Can you tell me what that unit does (circles in the attached photo)?

No photo attached.

 

[mufjp]

Oh sorry. Here’s the photo.

I’m talking about the small cylinder circled. Is that where the chlorine tablets are supposed to go? Our pool guy told us to put the tablets in the skimmer basket.

 

[mufjp]

And what would be the red valve called?

When I was just getting a quote for installation he was saying it needs a check valve between the heater and the SWG. And he also said I need a spa air valve (my pool doesn’t have a spa), which I have, but he said is wrong.

 

[ajw22]

Putting tabs in the skimmer basket is not recommended. When the pump is off the tabs are dissolving and creating highly acidic water in the skimmer. Then when you turn the pump on your heater gets a big dose of low pH water that will damage the heat exchanger over time.

You can remove the chlorinator and put the SWG in its place.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Water comes through your filter and into the bottom of the heater. It goes through the heater and down through a clear check valve and then through a tablet feeder and then back to the pool.

If you want to add a SWCG, you can just replace the tab feeder with the salt cell.

You do NOT need a check valve between the heater and a SWCG... You do need a check valve between any tab feeder and the heater.

The red valve simply lets you shut off the water when you open the tab feeder. Otherwise, gravity happens... The water in your pool will flow backwards from the pool returns and out of the tab feeder.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

And what would be the red valve called?

I would call it a red valve.

When I was just getting a quote for installation he was saying it needs a check valve between the heater and the SWG.

You have a check valve between the heater and the chlorinator. I circled it in red.

That pool guy is giving you lots of incorrect information.

And he also said I need a spa air valve (my pool doesn’t have a spa), which I have, but he said is wrong.

Where is the spa air valve?

 

[Jimrahbe]

A better question is... What is a spa air valve, and why do you need one if you don't have a spa?????

Jim R.

 

[mufjp]

Thank you guys.

I’ve read the texts again. The pool guy was texting in incomplete sentences but I’m pretty sure he meant is this. He is saying there needs to be a check valve, but I have the wrong one—the one I have is a spa air valve. And it has the wrong glue too.

Does any of that make sense to you guys? I can take a detailed picture of the check valve tomorrow.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Dont overthink it, just hard pipe everything and put the swg where the tab feeder is. Use pool valves, not the red type, they dont last long. Oh and did we say UNIONS, yes Unions on every equipment connection.

 

[mufjp]

So I spent more than 40 minutes at Home Depot trying to find the right PVC parts/unions.. but I'm kind of lost.

After removing the chlorinator shown above (I believe it's this one:Amazon.com: Hayward CL200 In-line Automatic Chemical Feeder: Gateway), what PVC parts do I need?

The Circupool support told me to get the "2-Inch to 1.5-Inch Reducer Bushings" -- I bought two of these.. but I have no idea how to connect this reducer bushing to the existing unions the chlorinators have on either side.. (which i belive are these: Amazon.com: Hayward SP1500UNPAK2C 1-1/2-Inch Socket by 2-Inch SLIP Flush Union Connectors Pak Replacement for select Hayward Pumps/Filters and Chlorine Feeders: Garden & Outdoor)

 

[Flying Tivo]

SWG usually come with their own Unions as sometimes they are proprietary, but for the rest of the equipment those are fine. This means you use 1.5 pvc tubing to attach the unions.