Need suggestions for removing broken “Duck Plug”

I've noticed threaded PVC fittings will bind if you do not use Teflon tape. My advice is to always use tape on a threaded PVC fitting.

Thanks for the tip. 😀👍

I didn’t do that, so here’s hoping the broken plug isn’t really stuck in there.

Pool owner for 18 years and I’m still learning. 😊
 
I've noticed threaded PVC fittings will bind if you do not use Teflon tape. My advice is to always use tape on a threaded PVC fitting.

You may have gotten away with it with no issues so far, but you shouldn't use Teflon tape on PVC threaded fittings or you can cause the female fitting to crack, which would be a very bad day for your pool return. Use something like RectorSeal No. 5 Pipe Thread Sealant.

"The right way to assemble a threaded PVC joint-Schedule 40 or 80 is finger tight plus one to two turns-no more. Two turns past finger tight plus the stress of the system pressure is within the tensile strength of one-inch PVC. ([1,788 psi x 2] + 2,000 psi = 5,576 psi).

Don't use Teflon tape, Teflon paste or pipe dope. Do use a sealant.

Teflon tape, Teflon paste and pipe dope is intended for metal pipe and fittings. Metal to metal fitting joints are more difficult to tighten than plastic; the surfaces tend to gall without the aid of such lubricants as Teflon or pipe dope. Plastic fittings do not need this lubrication.

When Teflon tape is wrapped around plastic male threads it adds to the strain and tensile stress. The tendency of most installers is to incorrectly wrap several thickness of tape around the male threads, increasing stain and stress further.

Teflon paste and pipe dope, just like Teflon tape, make threaded joints slippery. Their use on PVC fittings can be an invitation to over-torque.

When working with threaded plastic fittings do use a proper sealant. The right sealant for threaded joints is non-hardening, compatible with plastic and doesn't add slipperiness.

A non-hardening compound is forced by water pressure into potential points of leakage, thereby performing a true sealing function. Tapes and hardening pastes permit a leak path to develop when a joint is backed off, mechanically flexed, or expands with rising temperatures."


 
You may have gotten away with it with no issues so far, but you shouldn't use Teflon tape on PVC threaded fittings or you can cause the female fitting to crack, which would be a very bad day for your pool return. Use something like RectorSeal No. 5 Pipe Thread Sealant.

"The right way to assemble a threaded PVC joint-Schedule 40 or 80 is finger tight plus one to two turns-no more. Two turns past finger tight plus the stress of the system pressure is within the tensile strength of one-inch PVC. ([1,788 psi x 2] + 2,000 psi = 5,576 psi).

Don't use Teflon tape, Teflon paste or pipe dope. Do use a sealant.

Teflon tape, Teflon paste and pipe dope is intended for metal pipe and fittings. Metal to metal fitting joints are more difficult to tighten than plastic; the surfaces tend to gall without the aid of such lubricants as Teflon or pipe dope. Plastic fittings do not need this lubrication.

When Teflon tape is wrapped around plastic male threads it adds to the strain and tensile stress. The tendency of most installers is to incorrectly wrap several thickness of tape around the male threads, increasing stain and stress further.

Teflon paste and pipe dope, just like Teflon tape, make threaded joints slippery. Their use on PVC fittings can be an invitation to over-torque.

When working with threaded plastic fittings do use a proper sealant. The right sealant for threaded joints is non-hardening, compatible with plastic and doesn't add slipperiness.

A non-hardening compound is forced by water pressure into potential points of leakage, thereby performing a true sealing function. Tapes and hardening pastes permit a leak path to develop when a joint is backed off, mechanically flexed, or expands with rising temperatures."




Good to know. Thanks! 😀
 
I would very carefully tap in one of the 4-way wood splitting wedges you can get a harbor freight for $10. Once it has lightly engaged the pvc turn it out with channellock pliers..

Anything to lightly engage the inside of the pvc in a couple of places should work.
 
UPDATE:

The weather finally cooperated so I could open.

Fortunately, I was able to remove the broken Duck Plug pretty easily using a hammer and flathead screwdriver. The broken plug was soft enough for the screwdriver to bite into. It unscrewed with some gentle tapping on the screwdriver with a hammer. No harm done to the wall connection.

Thanks to everyone for the tips. 😀👍
 
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Glad you got it out!

If you’re looking for something different for next year, I’ve been really happy with these:


Then I use one of these sideways to remove it. Works like a champ.

 

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Glad you got it out!

If you’re looking for something different for next year, I’ve been really happy with these:


Then I use one of these sideways to remove it. Works like a champ.


Those plugs do work great (it’s what I use to use).👍 The only downside is it makes blowing out the lines a two person job and one of them is going to get soaked (not fun when water is cold 🥶).
 
Do you use them?
I wil drain my IG being built below the returns, so the ones Magiteck posted work for me. When we moved and inherited an Above Ground I was so excited to try the often rec'd duck plug but was really disappointed with how chintzy it was. Then it failed over the winter to seal the deal. No biggie, the plumbing was above ground too and I was tearing it down anyway.

If I needed to do it again, I can tell from the pics how much beefier the bungee plugs are, and would use those.
 
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I wil drain my IG being built below the returns, so the ones Magiteck posted work for me. When we moved and inherited an Above Ground I was so excited to try the often rec'd duck plug but was really disappointed with how chintzy it was. Then it failed over the winter to seal the deal. No biggie, the plumbing was above ground too and I was tearing it down anyway.

If I needed to do it again, I can tell from the pics how much beefier the bungee plugs are, and would use those.

It would be nice if I could drain like that, but our water table is high, so draining is a no no.
 
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Bungee plugs next year. They will last so long you won't care when it's time to replace them.

So I bought the bungee style plugs to use this year. They seem well made and seal very well. However, using our shop vac (6HP) I was unable to blow out the returns by myself. It seems the combination of the bungee seal tension and water pressure from the pool (I do not lower the water level to help prevent liner float over the winter; a very real possibility here) was too much for the shop vac to overcome. I had to have my spouse gently pull open the bungee plug a bit to allow water to escape until it bubbled. The shop vac worked ok with the duck style plugs.

I have a few ideas of what to try differently next year, but I’ll post asking for feedback/ideas then.
 
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So I bought the bungee style plugs to use this year. They seem well made and seal very well. However, using our shop vac (6HP) I was unable to blow out the returns by myself. It seems the combination of the bungee seal tension and water pressure from the pool (I do not lower the water level to help prevent liner float over the winter; a very real possibility here) was too much for the shop vac to overcome. I had to have my spouse gently pull open the bungee plug a bit to allow water to escape until it bubbled. The shop vac worked ok with the duck style plugs.

I have a few ideas of what to try differently next year, but I’ll post asking for feedback/ideas then.
I didn’t have any luck with the bungee plugs. The plug won’t screw in deep enough for the o-ring to contact the mating face.
 
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