My New Old Pool Dig Out

Here are a couple of photos snapped last night showing the new areas formed. 3 sides completely formed. New epoxy rebar in a ton of areas. New skimmers and all plumbing ran. Electrical conduit in place by the electrician yesterday. My homemade scaffolding is working like a dream to move around the deep end.
 

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great work! What kind of mix will you use to rebuild the bond beam? Will you use a bonding agent or it may not be necessary?
Using Sika SCC 211 plus - high end bagged product with polymers and admixes for bonding etc. Has bonding agents in it already. $27/bag but told I shouldn't have to do this again in my lifetime. I'm sure its overkill but I don't want to do this again.
 
Using Sika SCC 211 plus - high end bagged product with polymers and admixes for bonding etc. Has bonding agents in it already. $27/bag but told I shouldn't have to do this again in my lifetime. I'm sure its overkill but I don't want to do this again.

I work for the company that makes (some of) the polymers in Sika products - they are a great company!
 
Definitely overkill. That's alot of bagged material. I'd bet the redi mix plant could get you a small batch for much less that would be overkill as well. Regardless nice form work and done well. Nobody is gonna do quality work like you do on your own stuff. I didnt notice the grade that severe before. What's the plan for the high side? Your gonna need a retaining wall eventually. Little late now but a raised beam on that length would have solved 2 problems at once.
 
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Definitely overkill. That's alot of bagged material. I'd bet the redi mix plant could get you a small batch for much less that would be overkill as well. Regardless nice form work and done well. Nobody is gonna do quality work like you do on your own stuff. I didnt notice the grade that severe before. What's the plan for the high side? Your gonna need a retaining wall eventually. Little late now but a raised beam on that length would have solved 2 problems at once.
i agree with you, he should also rent a pump service, the days of carrying concrete on wheel barrows are over.. For the retaining wall maybe he can build a waterfall type wall on the high side of the pool on top of the coping?
 

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Retaining wall going in on the high side about 5-6' from the pool edge. Going to match the retaining wall around the patio - eden natural drystack wall stone 2-3" thick. I like the natural look and not manmade stuff. Tried to talk the wife into the wall sitting directly on top of the pool but she was worried about how it would look with a 5' sidewalk on one side and a wall on the other - non-symmetrical. Agree that it would have made my life a little easier but what the heck is a 10 ton retaining wall to build after all of this concrete work! Retaining wall will run the entire length of pool from the pool house to the patio basically. About 10-12 ton of that stone. That should start in a couple of weeks. Get the retaining wall done so I can start putting my yard back together.

And yes, I am sure the bagged cement was an overkill but like I have said from the beginning I don't want to do this twice. I rented a mixer / pump all in one unit with a 2" hose to do the job and brought 8 of my laborers from work over on Saturday to knock this thing out. Small issue w hose being clogged but once we got the kinks out we were done in roughly 3 hours w 3 pallets of material. Water curing now and stripping forms starting tonight. Fingers crossed that it looks good when forms are pulled. Sika is a good company w great materials for specialty concrete work.
 
Question for my pool builders on the site. Precast coping first or tile first. To me it makes sense to tile first then set stones. It is much easier to get the tile set completely level on boards then set the stones on top - of course need to leave an appropriate space between the tile and stone for expansion.
 
Question for my pool builders on the site. Precast coping first or tile first. To me it makes sense to tile first then set stones. It is much easier to get the tile set completely level on boards then set the stones on top - of course need to leave an appropriate space between the tile and stone for expansion.
i think coping goes first, stone usually requires 1/2"-3/4" mortar and pool beam might not be level so pb use the mortar to level it, like some areas would need 1/2" others more or less. I suggest you get a good laser level either rent it or buy it
 
I'm not a builder or even pretend to know anything about building. However, I had my pool remodeled last year and they did the coping first, then the pool tile.

When they grouted the tile, they sealed up any spaces between the coping and the tile at that time.
 
I always do coping first. But I work on liner pools mostly. The fact you are going to tile amd plaster you can fudge the front with no worries. The only worry would be the overhang being even. I like to use larger coping and just take your time and level as you go with a long level, 6' is what I use amd a quality 12" pitch level front to back. Always put a degree or two in coping away from pool. I set 2 guides on each end amd pull string to stay straight then back check w the level as you go
 
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I took a couple quick photos today of the poured top. It is completely covered with burlap to keep wet and cure so not much to see overall. I did uncover the one side to get a close up pic of the poured top - put a keyway in it to help with the coping install when that comes. Look beyond the form mess in the poo and yard. Its a disaster now as I have put in a lot of hours and hard work and my back is shot for a bit. Need to mend and do some clean up work.

Only concrete left is the step patching which shouldn't be too bad.
 

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