Motor overheating

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The ring is supposed to be in the pump and it comes with the ring.

Did the original ring get discarded and not replaced?

I don't know how much difference it will make.

It is designed to use the ring, so you should use the ring.

Make sure that it is installed in the right direction as shown on the ring.
 
The pump is probably the one that was installed when the house was built in 1991. The only part left original is the housing, maybe the diffuser and seal plate. The new impeller is

Hayward Super II & RS 1.0 HP and 1.5HP Up Rated Impeller - SPX3010C​

and my old diffuser and seal plate are still the right ones. I believe a new ring came with the diffuser, but I can't remember. Anyway, whatever the problem, the motor shouldn't have been tripping at 9 amps!
 
How about to much head pressure on the discharge side? Example restricted flow from the filters or valve? I work with very large pumps over 25 to 300 HP and this will do the same with loading the motor. Besides the obvious as stated binding the pump up with too tight of clearance.
I'd remove the motor and run it unloaded and see what you current reading are. Doesn't seem to be a motor issue, however if you do still get high current readings unloaded, it could be a bearing in the motor.

Good luck
 
Airsick said:
The only part left original is the housing, maybe the diffuser and seal plate.
Click to expand...
This seal plate?

Can you show pictures of how everything is put together.

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Is this the motor mounting plate that you have?

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Uncoupled draw is 6.5 amps. No tripping. Impeller with diffuser attached spins smoothly. When I turn off the power the motor spins down normally and the run switch clicks. Note how I have to close off almost all suction to get the amps to 9. Ring is SP 3005R and is installed correctly.
 

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It looks like you are doing everything correctly.

I have no idea why the amperage is so high.

The unloaded amperage seems excessive.

Since the other motor also had excessive amps, it would seem to be something other than the motor.

Maybe you just got two bad motors in a row.

Maybe try a different motor.

The only other thing I can think of that would help is to change the impeller to a SPX3005C.
 

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Here are the motor specs that go to a SPX3005C impeller.

5.5 amps at 230 volts = 1,265 watts.

The actual wattage should be between about 750 to 1,000 watts.

The motor is labeled as a 3/4 HP motor with a Service Factor of 1.0.

If you change to a SPX3005C impeller, the amperage should go to 5.5 or lower.


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Here are some estimated flow rates for the different impellers.

The SPX3005C or the SPX3007C should provide plenty of flow and less current.

Impeller..........Flow..............Amperage.

SPX3005C.....57 GPM.......5.5 amps Full load.
SPX3007C.....67 GPM.......7.5 amps full load.
SPX3010C.....78 GPM...... 9.3 amps full load.


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hayward-spx1607z1m-label.jpeg


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Airsick said:
Uncoupled draw is 6.5 amps.
Click to expand...
That's about 1,500 watts with no load.

So, something is definitely off.

Maybe a bad motor or maybe something else.

I think that we are missing something, but I do not have any idea what we are missing.

Maybe remove the impeller and run the motor with nothing attached to the motor.

Can you show the wiring compartment and the motor wiring diagram?
 
JamesW said:
The ring is supposed to be in the pump and it comes with the ring.

Did the original ring get discarded and not replaced?

I don't know how much difference it will make.

It is designed to use the ring, so you should use the ring.

Make sure that it is installed in the right direction as shown on the ring.
Click to expand...
Not having the impeller ring (which the pictures show that the OP installed correctly) is very necessary to the proper functioning of a Super 2 pump.
 
I agree that it needs the ring, but the power draw unloaded is 1,500 watts, which is about right for a pump moving water, but way too high for an impeller spinning in the air.

Something is off, but I have no idea what it could be.
 
JamesW said:
I agree that it needs the ring, but the power draw unloaded is 1,500 watts, which is about right for a pump moving water, but way too high for an impeller spinning in the air.

Something is off, but I have no idea what it could be.
Click to expand...
Can't tell the manufacturer of the motor, but even new motors can come from the factory bad. Many years ago, when NAFTA went into effect and motors were sent out of the country to be manufactured, for at least a year nearly 50% of the ones I installed were bad out of the box. Very frustrating time.
 
1poolman1 said:
Can't tell the manufacturer of the motor, but even new motors can come from the factory bad.
Click to expand...
It's a cheap motor from china and it could be bad, but they had the same exact problem before with a different motor, so something is off.

High Amps

Hey, Guys. I just replaced the 1.5 hp motor, seals, and impeller on my Hayward pump. I noticed that when I open all three suction valves the motor draws high amps. Only when I close off any combination of the three and see some turbulence in the suction filter/screen will the amps drop to...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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If it is the same seal plate, it’s possible it’s compromised when you put the shaft seal in backwards. The shaft could be rubbing where it enters the seal plate. It could be the angle but the motor doesn’t look flush to the wet end. The stand appears high. I would do what James said and removed impeller and look for any unnecessary friction. Or remove everything and bench test it.
 

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