Maintenance light on RJ45

[nabril15]

Hello all
I went to read the salinity on my RJ45 yesterday, and I saw the maintenance light on. I turned off the device and back on in a few.
I checked the device 3 times today, and the light wasn't on.
The last maintenence cleaning was...I don't remember (a year plus).

Other than using up a bit of acid, is there any harm in cleaning it "just in case" kind of thing?

Thanks

 

[TinFoilHat]

Acid is a last resort. Use a mechanical means that won't scratch the plates like a large zip tie or popsicle stick. If some dissolving is needed then use diluted vinegar. Vinegar removes the plate coatings but not as much as diluted acid will.

 

[PoolStored]

Cell mainenance light on the RJ series:

• This takes priority over Lo Salt / Hi Salt indications. Cell efficiency has been greatly reduced and the cell must be cleaned.
  • Depending on water chemistry, the cell may need to be cleaned more than once, or soon after the last cleaning. If you have cleaned your cell and see the Check Cell light again (and have checked all other troubleshooting items), clean your cell again.
  • If you are needing frequent or multiple cleanings, the pool has a high Saturation Index
• Ensure salinity is in range, ideally 3000-4000 PPM.
• Ensure correct Cell Version is set in the System Status menu.
• Ensure RJ voltage configuration matches input voltage.
• Low speed pump does not have enough flow to clear air and gas from the Cell. This is often the case if the appearance of the Check Cell light corresponds with pump operation, pump timer, or daily schedules. Invert cell.

It may be that your salinity is out of range, have you tested lately?
Do you track your CSI? If high, could be scale.
Is there any visible scale in the cell?
Is the correct cell version set?
What speed are you running the pump?
When was the last time you cleaned your filter? Dirty filter can reduce flow, not allowing air and gas to clear.

If you are going to clean the cell, don't us acid. Follow our cleaning guide...

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Texas Splash]

Other than using up a bit of acid, is there any harm in cleaning it "just in case" kind of thing?

As noted above, the main concern with acid washing is eroding some of the coating off of the cell plates. If you don't see any calcium scale, it may not be worth the bath. FWIW, my cell is wrapping up season 4 and it's doing the same thing. The low salt flashes periodically when it "thinks" the salt level is low ( it is not), and once in a while the low salt and cell maint lights go steady and it shuts down. I turn it off and back on and it might do fine for a few hours or a few days before it happens again. Just a sign that they are getting worn I suppose.

 

[nabril15]

It may be that your salinity is out of range, have you tested lately?
Do you track your CSI? If high, could be scale.
Is there any visible scale in the cell?
Is the correct cell version set?
What speed are you running the pump?
When was the last time you cleaned your filter? Dirty filter can reduce flow, not allowing air and gas to clear.

If you are going to clean the cell, don't us acid. Follow our cleaning guide...

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Yes, i pulled up the manual.

Answers:
Salt level 3000 yesterday, and I added some, so probably 3100.
Csi? Don't know. I don't see scaling on them, but then again it's cloudy in there. Should I take it offand look at it empty.
Speed: 2800 for 4 hours, and 2100 for 4.
Filter: last cleaned July 4th.

I own vinegar, so I may try that.

 

[nabril15]

How do I do this?

"Ensure correct Cell Version is set in the System Status menu."

Make sure it says RJ 45?

 

[PoolStored]

In the RJ, it is pretty easy to see.
Go into pool math, turn on Track CSI and Track Temperature, load a full set of results and it will calculate CSI.
Take the cell ofF and inspect if you like.
Use vinegar only if you can't get it off with mechanical removal.

Make sure it says RJ 45?

Yep.

 

[nabril15]

In the RJ, it is pretty easy to see.
Go into pool math, turn on Track CSI and Track Temperature, load a full set of results and it will calculate CSI.
Take the cell ofF and inspect if you like.
Use vinegar only if you can't get it off with mechanical removal.


Yep.

Thank you
My csi is 0.12

 

[PoolStored]

My csi is 0.12

Slight scaling tendency. You might want to lower TA to get your CSI down below 0.
How old is the cell?

 

[nabril15]

Slight scaling tendency. You might want to lower TA to get your CSI down below 0.
How old is the cell?

I bought it in October of 2021.
My TA is 70. Lower it?

 

[PoolStored]

I bought it in October of 2021.

Huh.

My TA is 70. Lower it?

Your only log says 120. Post a full set of results. FC, pH, TA, CH, CYA, Salt, Temperature. I assume you don't use borates.

 

[nabril15]

Huh.

Your only log says 120. Post a full set of results. FC, pH, TA, CH, CYA, Salt, Temperature. I assume you don't use borates.

Done
Temp is 88. I didn't find where to enter it in the log addition. I added stabilizer, acid, and calcium today.

09-15-2024 @ 11:48 AM
------------------------------------------
Test Results 09-15-2024 @ 11:48 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 6.5
pH: 8.0
Total Alkalinity: 70
Calcium Hardness: 275
CYA: 60
Salt: 3000

 

[PoolStored]

Pool math logs didn't change. For $8 per year, you really should get the subscription and track your test results. Are you using the same login as your forum login?
You need to enable "Track Temperature" and you can log Temp.
Lowering your pH to 7.8 will reduce CSI to -.19 If you can keep your CSI slightly negative, you should not have scale.
Inspect the cell. If it is clean, I'd still lower TA to get to 60, and your pH should be pretty stable around 7.8, CSI = -.19

How old is the plaster?

My guess it was air, or some other anomaly that triggered the light.

 

[proavia]

Turn on track CSI and track water temperature in PoolMath.

Keep CSI in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negative 0.30) range to minimize scaling in the SWG.

With the cell removed - shoot a steady stream of water thru each end to flush out any buildup. Then attempt to remove the rest with a zip tie and dlush again. Lastresort, use a diluted vinegar mixture.

 

[nabril15]

Pool math logs didn't change. For $8 per year, you really should get the subscription and track your test results. Are you using the same login as your forum login?
You need to enable "Track Temperature" and you can log Temp.
Lowering your pH to 7.8 will reduce CSI to -.19 If you can keep your CSI slightly negative, you should not have scale.
Inspect the cell. If it is clean, I'd still lower TA to get to 60, and your pH should be pretty stable around 7.8, CSI = -.19

How old is the plaster?

My guess it was air, or some other anomaly that triggered the light.

Same login, yes.
Replastered in late 2017.

I'll look at the cell tomorrow.

 

[PoolStored]

Same login, yes.

Now it shows!

 

[PoolStored]

Manage your pH to keep it around 7.8, (with current chemistry), and in general, CSI slightly negative and the cell should stay clean.

I keep mine about -.2 and my 3 year old RJ-60+ is clean as a whistle.

 

[nabril15]

Apparently, i need to clean. Wow
I cannot attach pictures for some frustrating reason, but, yes there was quite a bit of calcium (or whatever) in there.
The zip tie method is pretty cool, but it doesn't get the harder stuff. I avoided using a thin knife or screwdriver to avoid damage to the plates.

I have the cell soaking in some 6% vinegar to loosen the harder stuff that was just to tough for the zip tie.

Thanks all.

I wish the cell was a straight cylinder and didn't have those 2 15 degree changes of direction; it would be easier to clean if it was straight.

 

[PoolStored]

Endeavor to run your CSI slightly negative (-.3 to 0) to avoid scale in the future.

 

[nabril15]

Endeavor to run your CSI slightly negative (-.3 to 0) to avoid scale in the future.

Yes sir.
So, I will need to drop the ph down to 7.0 or 7.2, and then open my water feature to match the pump's running time?
1. How will I know how long to do it? Measure the TA daily until I reach 60?
2. And then, will the ph stay that low on its own? How will it get to the ideal 7.8 level?

I've never done that procedure of lowering TA that way, and thus why I ask.