bigcountryhb

Member
Apr 2, 2015
23
Orange, CA
OK, I am a firm follower of the TFP mantra of "phosphates don't matter", so please no lecturing because you'll be preaching to the choir. I had a Jandy Pro Series TruClear Salt System last year. Just recently I noticed it has slowed or stopped producing chlorine. I contacted my installer, who put me in touch with the person who handles the warranty work for Jandy locally. We just spoke and he told me that I need to be sure my water chemistry is dialed in, otherwise he would have to charge me a service call fee. I laughed and told him my chemistry is excellent. And then he told me that includes phosphates. He gave me some Bull about phosphates won't allow the chlorine molecules to release from the plates, to which I told him that phosphates were a bunch of bull that the pool industry created a problem for. He agreed, but Jandy stands by the fact that my phosphates need to be below 50, but 0 would be best.

So, is there a way other than expensive PhosFree chemical to lower phosphates? I am so livid right now, I can't see straight, but this is what I have to do to file a warranty claim.
 
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I'll pass no judgement on thee.... ;) SeaKlear is the one that is the most concentrated I have found... make sure you are getting the quart bottle and not the pint, sometimes they sell the pint for the same price as the quart so watch out. And you don't have to follow the treatment with clarifier as the instruction indicate... that just gums up your filter even more..
SeaKlear Phosphate Remover - Commercial Strength - 1040105 removes 9000ppb per 10K gal. about 40bux
 
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Thank you for reserving your judgment! And thank you for the recommendation...it'll be here Wednesday.

I'll pass no judgement on thee.... ;) SeaKlear is the one that is the most concentrated I have found... make sure you are getting the quart bottle and not the pint, sometimes they sell the pint for the same price as the quart so watch out. And you don't have to follow the treatment with clarifier as the instruction indicate... that just gums up your filter even more..
SeaKlear Phosphate Remover - Commercial Strength - 1040105 removes 9000ppb per 10K gal. about 40bux
 
Hayward has informed all that phosphates over 1000 ppb can in fact coat the blades rendering them useless. Phooey I said, until a client had a two year old cell that was producing zero chlorine, proper amps, used phosphate remover voila it’s working again. A commercial phosphate remover now is part of my diagnosis if amps are reading correct.
 
Hayward has informed all that phosphates over 1000 ppb can in fact coat the blades rendering them useless. Phooey I said, until a client had a two year old cell that was producing zero chlorine, proper amps, used phosphate remover voila it’s working again. A commercial phosphate remover now is part of my diagnosis if amps are reading correct.
Really...Is that information posted on the forum anywhere? Perhaps you can post that communique in the Deep End. That might explain my pool a bit. I have always used a phosphate remover as a part of my yearly startup. (yeah I'm coming out of the closet) I have lots of vegetation that falls into the pool in over the winter combined with the rains that drip off the trees etc. So I have found over the years through trial and error that reducing my phosphates at the startup in the spring makes the rest of the system run better throughout the year. I couldn't put my finger on it but this bit of edification might explain why my SWG does a better job keeping up with the demand when I do. hmmm.
 
Uh oh. Am I causing a fracture in the foundation of the Phosphate Phooey theory? We need some scientific research!
In the past its been a claim that lowering the phosphate levels was a marketing claim. Theoretically you should be able to control your algae with CL alone, if there is no algae it makes no difference what your phosphate levels are. That makes sense. But if Phosphate levels affect the way my equipment works, in particular the piece of equipment that generates chlorine ... then it makes me stand up and say hmmm. Then maybe that recommendation is not so much to control algae as it is to make the equipment work better.
 

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The notion that phosphates “coat the plates” would need a solid scientific explanation of a chemical mechanism that would allow the plates to be coated and yet still allow them to draw the same amps but yet not produce any chlorine....I can tell you right now that’s hogwash but if Hayward would like to share their brilliant scientific research, I’m all eyes.....

Calcium phosphate is offered most often as the reason but that’s nonsense - at normal CH levels you’d need phosphates well above the 50ppm (50,000ppb level) before scaling can start.

99.999% of the time the problem is algae. Once algae begins to grow, and even at low levels of growth where the algae is still planktonic (free floating) and not forming green mats, their presence is enough to overwhelm the chlorine output of any of the SWGs on the market.

@bigcountryhb - did you ever do an overnight chlorine loss test to rule out the possibility of algae?
 
Thanks @JoyfulNoise for chiming in... and that is what I am all eyes for as well. I keep hearing this argument but I don't see any information to back it up either way. Even if Hayward has an internal research that shows this I guess they aren't sharing. This was the first time I've heard of a manufacturer tying phosphate levels to a warranty claim. So it made me want to revisit the notion... that: IS it for the equipment not the algae?.
 
Due to staining issues, my pool has been on a steady diet of sequestrants (Jack’s Magic Purple Stuff) for many, many years. As such, phosphate level is high (>1000, likely much higher).

This has never caused an issue with my Aqua Rite SWCG (T15 cell).
 
So just out of curiosity what is the downfall of putting Phosohate Remover in the pool? Do they add metals to the water? Can they cloud your water? If you were going to add them are there ones with particular ingredients you should look for to avoid? I don’t intend to ever use them but good info to know if I ever ran into this warranty problem.
 
So just out of curiosity what is the downfall of putting Phosohate Remover in the pool? Do they add metals to the water? Can they cloud your water? If you were going to add them are there ones with particular ingredients you should look for to avoid? I don’t intend to ever use them but good info to know if I ever ran into this warranty problem.

Phosphate removal is done by using a chemical called lanthanum chloride (LaCl3). I won't go into the detailed chemistry but the lanthanum chloride essentially reacts with free phosphates leading to the precipitation of lanthanum phosphate (LaPO4). So when you add lanthanum chloride to your water, it starts to immediately get dull and, in some cases. cloudy. That's the formation of lanthanum phosphate. You want to then filter the water to remove the lanthanum phosphate. The final step is backwashing or deep cleaning the filter to get rid of the phosphates completely. If you have a cartridge or DE filter, no additional filter aids are needed. If you have a sand filter, you will likely need to add a polymeric clarifier to help remove the cloudiness. Flocs can work too but clarifiers are easier.

SeaKlear and Orenda make products that are just pure, concentrated lanthanum chloride solutions (pH adjusted to be acidic). They are spec'd to remove 9,000 to 10,000ppb phosphates per 10,000 gallons of pool water. Those are the chemicals you want to use. PhosFree products are much weaker formulations (less LaCl3) and they often contain clarifiers or flocs. You don't want those as they are less effective formulations that cost just as much as the commercial products from SeaKlear or Orenda.

If you do attempt to lower phosphates, investing in a phosphate test kit (Taylor K-1106) is the best way to go as you get your own testing results without having to get the hard sell from the pool store.
 
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If you do attempt to lower phosphates, investing in a phosphate test kit (Taylor K-1106) is the best way to go as you get your own testing results without having to get the hard sell from the pool store.

As a data point, a pool store test said I have phosphates in the thousands. I got the K-1106 and did my own testing and found negligible phosphates. Pool store testing for phosphates is no more reliable then other tests they do. Verify with your own test before taking any action.

@bigcountryhb should verify his phosphate level using the K-1106 and use that test to show the Jandy warranty guy.
 
Don’t shoot the messenger, aqua magazine had a big write up on it two years ago I believe. Hayward now will balk on warranty replacement if phosphates are not lower than 500 ppb.

I personally see no reason not to use it, it lowers chlorine demand that can prove excellent should a pool drop lower than the recommended levels.

I might add it’s part of my arsenal now for all my pools. IMO it’s a no brainer. Yes I’ve been converted.
 
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Interesting quote from the article:
"The real interference of phosphates in chlorine generators is still somewhat theoretical. "
Of course they go on to say:
"We do know that higher levels of orthophosphate seem to cause a definite interference with the normal operation of the salt chlorine generators. "
But, they do not explain how, or what criteria they are using to prove this interference.

It does not seem like they are really able to attribute the lack of FC to the phosphate interfering with the equipment operation. Whereas the lack of FC could easily be attributed to the prior existence of algae in the water and the SWG not able to keep up with demand. The higher phosphate level could be increasing the rate of algae reproduction and the removal of it lowering the reproduction enough that the SWG could catch up and get ahead. As TFP has always said, if you kill the algae first, does not matter how much phosphate is in the water. This is still true.

Of course lower the phosphates will lower the likelihood of algae if the FC falls too low and will lower the rate of reproduction. So it could be used as an insurance policy.
But, I still fail to see actual evidence that the phosphates themselves are lowering the FC production out of the SWG.
 
Don’t shoot the messenger, aqua magazine had a big write up on it two years ago I believe. Hayward now will balk on warranty replacement if phosphates are not lower than 500 ppb.

I personally see no reason not to use it, it lowers chlorine demand that can prove excellent should a pool drop lower than the recommended levels.

I might add it’s part of my arsenal now for all my pools. IMO it’s a no brainer. Yes I’ve been converted.

Yep, I do remember that article and it’s completely devoid of any actual science. They make a conjecture about a chemical reaction without offering any basis in actual chemistry. But let's use their own words against them, shall we -

A product known as zinc orthophosphate is used in drinking water systems because it adheres to metal pipes and acts as an anti-corrosion agent. So, from this we know that orthophosphate likes to cling to metals.

So, from a completely unrelated chemical used in water delivery systems to avoid metallic corrosion, the article makes the conjecture that phosphates "stick to metals". This is a classic if-this/then-that logical fallacy. While it is true that phosphates can be added to water to modify the electrochemical behavior of metal pipes (most notably cast iron and lead solder joints), the chemistry employed there is entirely different than what one finds in an SWG. So this is truly a non-sequitur .

The real interference of phosphates in chlorine generators is still somewhat theoretical. It appears that since orthophosphates attach to metals they attach to the anode and cause an interference with the flow of electrons between the anode and the cathode of the salt chlorine generator. We do know that higher levels of orthophosphate seem to cause a definite interference with the normal operation of the salt chlorine generators.
{emphasis added}

So right there is the crux of their argument, but their argument is totally wrong. Electrons don't flow at all between the cathode and the anode, at least not through the water. They flow along the electrical wiring that connects the anode to the cathode on the external electrical circuit.

Now here's an interesting quote from the comment section made by the author of the article, Terry Arko -

The phenomenon of phosphate interference with salt generators in pools is still relatively new. There really isn't to my knowledge any direct scientific data related to results and exact measurements in swimming pools. The reports and solutions at this point are mainly anecdotal from the field. As with many problems in the pool industry professionals in the field many times are ahead of those in the lab in the observance and solutions to various water quality challenges.
{emphasis added}

So right there the author acknowledges that everything he just wrote in his article is nothing more than conjecture. I give him points for at least being honest there and relating that field testing often is ahead of the industry learning curve (just like TFP and the old Pool Forum linking the FC/CYA ratio to good pool care), but this is case where the anecdotes are saying one thing (high phosphates tend to cause the SWG to not keep up) but the experts have no idea as to what the problem is and are making non-sensical conjecture. Is it possible for phosphate to have some kind of chemical reaction at the anode or cathode? Sure. Does that necessarily imply that the chlorine production will be impeded? Not at all. It is entirely possible for two separate electrochemical reactions to happen with no cross over whatsoever. So again, the experts in this case need to make an argument based on the actual electrochemistry of phosphate (a highly complex molecule to study) and then relate that to what is happening with chlorinated pool water inside the cell. Simply taking concepts from completely unrelated topics and then stating them as fact does nothing to bolster their argument.

It is also always worth reminded people that you need to first vet the source of the information before you put too much reliance on it. AQUA Magazine is a trade-rag that is entirely dependent on subscribers (very small part of it's revenue) and advertisers/corporate backers (the lion's share of it's revenue). Terry Arko is an employee of .... yup ....SeaKlear. SeaKlear makes lots of pool chemicals, not least of which is a line of both residential and commercial phosphate removers. So you gotta ask yourself, "Do you think there's a conflict of interest there in letting the guy that sells you the chemicals tell you how amazingly important it is that you believe his theories??"

On a personal note, I too use phosphate removers regularly and do believe that phosphate control is good for a pool (it eliminates a variable). But, as I stated above, the vast majority of problems that occur between SWG's and phosphates is not direct-causal, but rather indirect, ie, algae. Phosphates are an algae nutrient and most pool owners take lousy care of their pools. Algae blooms easily overwhelm SWG chlorine production. Therefore, when phosphates are high and pools have algae in them (and yes, clear pool water can have planktonic algae in it), SWG production rates can't keep up and it appears that the cell is not working. SLAM the pool and bring the algae under control and 99.999% of the time the SWG goes right back to being able to maintain chlorine levels.
 
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