Just bought a home w/pool

ChuzUThisDay

Well-known member
May 25, 2020
50
Decatur, Tn
Pool Size
33000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Hello everyone! Wanted to do a quick intro and looking forward to getting educated and potentially helping others. We purchased this home in February and have been ready to open the pool and swim. We’ve never owned, nor maintained a pool, so this is new and exciting for us. After waiting for 3 weeks for a pool guy to come open our pool, we opened the pool ourselves Saturday afternoon. It’s basically a 20’x40’ and had a mesh safety cover.

When we pulled back the cover, we discovered a nasty, dark green, almost black colored pool. After walking through the steps to open the pool, find all the winterizing plugs (that was fun and had surprises along the way), checked equipment, brushed the walls and floor, skimmed and removed all we could find, turned on pump and got sand filter going, then we did what everyone told us to do... we threw 12 bags of 4in1 shock in at different places (one at a time) and stirred the pool with our brush and pole to stir it up. With 3-4 times the amount we were supposed to use, we were sure this would eat through the nastiness.

We have kept aquariums for over 20 years and I know the first thing to ever do before adjusting water is to perform a test to see where I am. I didn’t do that before shocking! I know better.

Our Taylor K2006 is awaiting Amazon’s lackluster shipping. It will be here Thursday now after a second delay. Thank you Covid-19! So, we bought some cheap test strips knowing they’re likely useless. They showed everything at the minimum levels or less. How could we have zero chlorine in a 33,000 gallon pool when the evening before we used enough for 120,000?

pH is off the chart towards acidic (guessing 5.5 - 6)
Alkalinity is 0-20 ppm
CA is 0
Hardness is 0

We bought a liquid test kit at Home Depot today to validate if the strips we’re complete garbage. We know it’s likely not much better, but yes the chlorine, TA, and pH are bottomed out.

We know we need to raise cya, pH, and TA before shocking again, but do not know which to raise first, then the order following.

Thanks for reading and can’t wait to talk with everyone.

Richard & Regina

What we found when we removed the cover:
AfterCoverRemoved.jpg

The skimmer box the next morning:
Day2 Skimmer.jpg
 
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I tend to err on the side of caution. Therefore, I wouldn’t recommend adjusting anything until you have a valid set of tests. If your Taylor kit is supposed to arrive this week, I’d recommend that you add 5 ppm FC liquid bleach to the pool every day until your kit arrives. That should at least keep it from getting too much worse. Then run a full set of tests so that you can make decisions based on solid data.
 
DO NOT ADD STABILIZER UNTIL YOU CONFIRM YOUR WATER CAN HOLD CHLORINE.

Once you get your test kit add liquid chlorine for 10 ppm and test your free chlorine after 30-minutes. You likely have ammonia in your water if you lost 80%+ of FC in 30 minutes.

Do you have an ammonia test from your aquarium?

You have all the indications of Ammonia - Further Reading
 
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The cheap kit should be good for TA and pH. Especially if the FC is all gone, which it most likely is. You may have ammonia, especially with the very acidic nature of the water. What 'shock' did you use? Cal hypo or dichlor?
 
Also, if you got the K2006, you are getting very small amounts of FAS-DPD and CYA reagents. You will need refills, now. Order from TFTestkits.net. You will be happy you did.
 
Thanks for the replies!

After entering test info into the app, we’ve added 8lbs of cya, so assumed to be close to 30. Added 16lbs of sodium bicarbonate to raise pH and Alk. Waiting a few hours to let it level out to test again. The aquarium test kits are still packed from the move. As for the first shock used, it was 1lb packs of 43% Tricloro-something.

How long do we wait to add the SH? Do we need to test the pH and Alk levels first?
 
Do not add anything more to your water until you get your test kit and can confirm that your water can hold chlorine.
 
Just put in 4gal of SH and stirred the water well with the pool pole and brush as we poured. How long should we wait before testing chlorine levels?
 
Did you read the Ammonia link in post #3?

What is SH?
 

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SH is sodium hypochlorite (Pool Shock, liquid chlorine)

I did read the article and I’m quite confused as to why you told me to add the stabilizer.
 
SH is sodium hypochlorite (Pool Shock, liquid chlorine)

I did read the article and I’m quite confused as to why you told me to add the stabilizer.

That was a typo missing the NOT. Sorry.

We call SH liquid chlorine or LC.
 
I picked up the term SH from the soft wash world years ago. It's used to cut algae (imagine that) and nastiness growth on fences, patios, siding, etc.

As for adding the CYA, hopefully, we didn't waste two containers of it. If we did, lesson learned. The big thing for us is to learn from this on what to do/not do as we are new to this. It seems that having a solid pool cover over winter is a good start to reducing problems.
 
Another question. It had been raining off and on and forecasted to continue the rest of the week. Once we receive our test kit Thursday, will we need to wait for the rain to stop before testing/making additions?
 
No. The pool does not care if it is raining. It is already wet. Unless you are having a tropical storm amount of rain and massive overflow, it will have little effect on the pool water chemistry.
 
Good news, we received the k-2006 in the mail today. Is it best practice to only collect water with the tester for each individual test or can a container be used to collect enough water for all the tests being performed?

I took a work break, and we spent around 30 mins earlier looking through totes and cannot find the aquarium test kits (hiding in a mislabeled tote likely from the recent move), but looks like the suggested treatment for ammonia is the same whether I can test for it or we guess that it's there... pour the liquid chlorine to it.

I want to wait and get guidance before doing anything else. Thanks for everyone's patience and advice so far!
 
You can get a pint or so of water in a clean container (plastic - NO GLASS) for all the tests.

As you want to see about ammonia, here is the protocol.
To check and defeat ammonia, if necessary, is to raise your FC in the water using enough liquid chlorine to get to 10 ppm using PoolMath. Circulate the pool for 15 minutes. Test FC and CC. If FC at 5 or below, add LC to get to 10 using LC, circulate for 15 minutes, repeat until your FC is above 5 ppm after the 15 minute circulation.
 
You can get a pint or so of water in a clean container (plastic - NO GLASS) for all the tests.

As you want to see about ammonia, here is the protocol.
To check and defeat ammonia, if necessary, is to raise your FC in the water using enough liquid chlorine to get to 10 ppm using PoolMath. Circulate the pool for 15 minutes. Test FC and CC. If FC at 5 or below, add LC to get to 10 using LC, circulate for 15 minutes, repeat until your FC is above 5 ppm after the 15 minute circulation.
Do I need to test for CYA and validate it's at 0 again before adding the chlorine?
 

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