Jandy Salt Cell Frustration

[sjungers]

I am considering buying a new SWG system and burning down my old one. Yet everything seems to be working. So frustrating.. I just replaced a Jandy 1400 Salt Cell Kit with flow sensor ,cable and cell. Im finding that something is wrong . It produces a low chlorine output(Almost like a 700 model). I never have experienced this before. I have to run my SWG on 100% all day just to keep up. Tops out at about 2.58 FC PPM. Cya ,salt levels , voltage tests within the Jandy control, and flow sensor all seem within normal range. Although the highest amp current on the cell is 5.85 amps. I don't know if that is ok. I read somewhere it was to be 7 amps.The amp current testing was done inside the control. Could the cell be defective?
Cya 48, salt 3300, Ph 7.5 (Ph dosing using a Cat ph controller). 6hr pump run time Taylor salinity test and with CYA ,FC and PH using Hanna reagent Colormeter. Don"t know were else to turn. Totally Frustrated....

 

[mknauss]

6 hr pump run time is not enough. You need to use at least 10 hours at 100% this time of year to maintain an proper FC based on FC/CYA Levels. Any your CYA would be better off at 70 ppm.

 

[Jimrahbe]

S,

Why is your CYA so low?? We recommend 70 as the minimum CYA for a salt system..

If this were my pool, I would also want to know if there was anything in the water consuming my FC.. to do this you need to run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or OCLT... Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

If you have an algae bloom, even if you can't see it yet, your cell will never be able to keep up with the chlorine demand..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[sjungers]

These are some great tips. Im going to follow up on them. Ill keep you posted. Thanks for your advice.

 

[sjungers]

UPDATE......Well , after slamming the pool and taking your advice, it turns out the new Jandy cell was defective. The defective salt cell was struggling to make sufficient amounts of chlorine. When the cell was remove and inspected ,the cell had more than normal amounts of calcium deposit. After the salt cell was cleaned, it repeatedly produced more calcium depots after only a few short weeks. I replaced the new cell and new cable with new ones and...... Bingo. The chlorine is coming out of my ears. Lots and lots of it. At 60% capacity its running at 4.5-5.0 ppm!
I will never buy another salt cell kit from an Ebay seller again. There is a reason the price is lower. Lesson learned. Hopefully Paypal will refund the defective cell kit under their Buyer Protection.
Thanks for your all your help. The pool needed the slam, and CYA adjustment. Because now the green site glass on my pump is clear again. Ha. Thanks again.

 

[Frank in FL]

I have the Jandy SWG as well. On Wednesday, my FC was 1.38 and TC was 1.28. My cell was set at 70% for last 12 days or so. I bumped it up to 100% and today, 2 days later my FC & TC is 3.81. I also live in Florida. Im hoping I dont need to keep it at 100% to maintain these levels.. We shall see.

 

[sjungers]

Have you removed it and inspected it for calcium deposit? How old is your salt cell?

 

[Frank in FL]

Have you removed it and inspected it for calcium deposit? How old is your salt cell?

No I have not taken it out. New pool, cell has been in operation for about 3 weeks now.

 

[sjungers]

Like the gentlemen, in this thread, have told me. Do a chlorine test or slam the pool to eliminate any possible algae bloom. Make sure your CYA is in the recommended range. I keep mine low in the 40's in the summer. It works fine for me. Saves the plaster. But most say you shoud be in the 70's. And that is better to hold the chlorine values for sure. And, I understand that. It does. Do what works best for you.
You can also test the cell, only if you have some basic knowledge in that regard . The main test is an DC amp current test on the cell, inside your control. You will specifically need a DC amp capable multi meter or DC clamp on meter. We would be looking at a 7 amps as an optimum range. I was getting 5.85 amp on my brand new cell (but defective ) and it was struggling to keep 2.8 ppm running at 100% capacity. After I replace it with a new cell and cable, it worked as it should. With the new cell I'm getting 5.0ppm and running in the 60% range. It took me 3 month, of pulling my hair out, to pull the trigger on a new cell replacement. Total frustration. Only Because it was producing some chlorine. I just did not want to believe the cell was bad. But don't automatically think that yours is bad. Check all other possibilities first. Let us know what you find out. Good luck.