Intellitouch i9+3 problem after storm

Jump to latest Follow Reply
J

jwalkermed

0
May 5, 2016
36
Boerne, Texas
Hello all,

I have an Intellitouch i9+3 that has been running for 3 years and had performed flawlessly. Last week we had a big storm and had a power surge at my house from a lightning strike. It fried my modem, router, switch and the protocol adapter from the intellitouch system. I ordered a new screenlogic wireless connection kit swaped it out and it seemmed all was in order. But since I have discovered two things are not functioning.

1) My pool lights are not working right. I can turn them off and on via the app or pc but I'm unable to change the color. I press the color button or program and it the button blinks for a few seconds like it used to but there is no color change.

2) I'm unable to control my heater. In the app I press the button to turn it on and set the temp but those commands don't register with the heater. I can go the heater and manually turn it on and off as well adjust the temperature manually so I know the unit is functioning. Just no commands make it to the heater from the controller.

3) Pumps, cleaner, water features, landscape lights all seem to be working as well as the configured schedules.

Though I'd troubleshoot myself before I call tech support. Any though would be greatly appreciated.
 
I suspect that your comms are OK since you can control the lights via the app - which then goes through screenlogic to the outdoor controller via the comm port.

But just to be sure... since you've got an intelliflo VS pump... make sure the pump screen says "Display not Active"? As long as it says that, then the comms are ok between the pump and the outdoor unit.

1. Not being able to control the led color could be a problem with the controller or the light. Let's make sure comms are ok first. EDIT: what kind of lights?
2. For your heater, was it hooked up using the 2-wire connection/fireman's switch?
3. It's good that the schedules are working... at least the controller isn't dead!
 
J,

Since you had to install a new Protocol Adapter, it most likely had a different F/W version than your original.

I know when I have updated my adapter, in the past, not all of my programming moved over. There was always something that reset to the default value.

I suggest that you go back through the ScreenLogic configuration set up pages and make sure the heater is enabled and that the lights are set as IntelliBrite, etc...

I suspect that is where the problem is located.. I also recommend using your PC for any programming rather than a phone..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Hi Jim. The firmware versions were the same. I had the most up to date software on both adapters. Also I did go into the screen logic configure setup and check all the settings. They all seemed to be correct. Lights are set to intelliBrite. I see no way to enable the heater in the in the configuration menus. Only reference to the heater in the menus is the Manual Heat function which doesn't really fit my issue but tried turning that on and off just to see and that's a no go. Thanks for the suggestions. Always those simple things to check off first.

Jimrahbe said:
J,

Since you had to install a new Protocol Adapter, it most likely had a different F/W version than your original.

I know when I have updated my adapter, in the past, not all of my programming moved over. There was always something that reset to the default value.

I suggest that you go back through the ScreenLogic configuration set up pages and make sure the heater is enabled and that the lights are set as IntelliBrite, etc...

I suspect that is where the problem is located.. I also recommend using your PC for any programming rather than a phone..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
 
ogdento said:
I suspect that your comms are OK since you can control the lights via the app - which then goes through screenlogic to the outdoor controller via the comm port.

But just to be sure... since you've got an intelliflo VS pump... make sure the pump screen says "Display not Active"? As long as it says that, then the comms are ok between the pump and the outdoor unit.

1. Not being able to control the led color could be a problem with the controller or the light. Let's make sure comms are ok first. EDIT: what kind of lights?
2. For your heater, was it hooked up using the 2-wire connection/fireman's switch?
3. It's good that the schedules are working... at least the controller isn't dead!
Click to expand...

1) Lights are all Savi Melody. They were functioning correctly 2 weeks ago (before the storm) during a party.

2) I'm not sure about the wiring of the heater. I'll have to open the panel and check. It's raining now so when dry and safe I'll let you know.

Another issue I noticed: After turning on the lights I try to select a different color or color program. That of course doesn't work. About 30 seconds after that the pump(s) shut off and I completely loose the ability to control the system with the app or via the PC. I can still connect but intermittently it looses connection and then reconnects. I can press the reset button on the panel and then everything works again. This is repeatable every time I do it. I fear there is something wrong with the personality board. Doubt it's the universal panel motherboard since it powers up fine and the buttons seem to function correctly.
 
I just noticed you have 2 intelliflo pumps...
1. do they both still have different addresses?
2. do they both say "Display Not Active"?
3. at any point - like when you say they turn off 30 seconds after setting the lights - do they stop showing "Display Not Active"? (again, if they don't say Display Not Active, they're not being controlled by the intellitouch)

Is there any chance that for a test you could hard wire your screenlogic protocol adapter to the outdoor panel - removing the wireless link from the equation?

I would be surprised if you had a bad personality board - unless you can see some obvious damage like a broken component or burned board trace. The on-board relays do sometimes go bad (or get physically knocked and damaged) but they run the valves, not your pumps. There aren't really any other sensitive components on the board - unlike the motherboard that can get all kinds of messed up.
 
ogdento said:
I just noticed you have 2 intelliflo pumps...
1. do they both still have different addresses?
2. do they both say "Display Not Active"?
3. at any point - like when you say they turn off 30 seconds after setting the lights - do they stop showing "Display Not Active"? (again, if they don't say Display Not Active, they're not being controlled by the intellitouch)

Is there any chance that for a test you could hard wire your screenlogic protocol adapter to the outdoor panel - removing the wireless link from the equation?

I would be surprised if you had a bad personality board - unless you can see some obvious damage like a broken component or burned board trace. The on-board relays do sometimes go bad (or get physically knocked and damaged) but they run the valves, not your pumps. There aren't really any other sensitive components on the board - unlike the motherboard that can get all kinds of messed up.
Click to expand...


Okay:
Checked pumps. They are on different addresses. They both say Display Not Active.

Let me modify my original statement. Did some testing.

After I reset the system the pumps are running according to schedule. If I go to the lights tab and turn them on, then turn them off the pumps continue to run smoothly.

If I turn on the lights, then go to the IntelliBright tab and try to change anything with the lighting heres what happens. After approximately 30 seconds I hear the click of a relay switching and the pumps go off and then loose connection with intellitouch ( no longer say Display Not Active ). Then I have to reset the panel to reestablish connection.

Very strange how the lighting circuit could affect the pump circuit and only after this storm where multple electic components in my house were affected. That's why I suspect electrical damage. Maybe the motherboard then? if you don't think personality board?

I'm not able to hard wire the protocol adapter right now. I'd need a 100 ft. Ethernet cable reach the closest port.


EDIT: Also I don't suspect it's the wireless connection here's why. When I originally replaced the protocol adapter I didn't swap out the wireless card that came with the kit because it was up and running again. When I discovered the heater and light problems I thought maybe the wireless card was also blown so I went ahead and replaced it but it made no difference. So two different wireless cards and the same results.
 
Last edited:
Jwalker,
This is a strange one, but I agree with your assessment of your wireless connection... it seems unlikely that it's at fault.

This bit that you noticed is interesting...
If I turn on the lights, then go to the IntelliBright tab and try to change anything with the lighting heres what happens. After approximately 30 seconds I hear the click of a relay switching and the pumps go off and then loose connection with intellitouch ( no longer say Display Not Active ). Then I have to reset the panel to reestablish connection.

The pumps shutting off and losing connection with the intellitouch smells to me like the intellitouch is getting reset or locked up

1. Is the relay click you hear the relay that powers the lights? (the pumps don't - or shouldn't - operate off of a relay). Are these lights low voltage (does the light relay drive a 120 to 12v transformer) or high voltage?
2. What if you just turn on the lights and wait a bit... do you still get a relay click after 30 seconds?

My wild guess is that when you change a light setting and the controller rapidly turns the light board on/off a bunch of times to set your change... something is shorting or drawing too much current (either during the on/off sequence or after it's done) and resetting or otherwise screwing up the motherboard.

Tom
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
ogdento said:
Jwalker,
This is a strange one, but I agree with your assessment of your wireless connection... it seems unlikely that it's at fault.

This bit that you noticed is interesting...
If I turn on the lights, then go to the IntelliBright tab and try to change anything with the lighting heres what happens. After approximately 30 seconds I hear the click of a relay switching and the pumps go off and then loose connection with intellitouch ( no longer say Display Not Active ). Then I have to reset the panel to reestablish connection.

The pumps shutting off and losing connection with the intellitouch smells to me like the intellitouch is getting reset or locked up

1. Is the relay click you hear the relay that powers the lights? (the pumps don't - or shouldn't - operate off of a relay). Are these lights low voltage (does the light relay drive a 120 to 12v transformer) or high voltage?
2. What if you just turn on the lights and wait a bit... do you still get a relay click after 30 seconds?

My wild guess is that when you change a light setting and the controller rapidly turns the light board on/off a bunch of times to set your change... something is shorting or drawing too much current (either during the on/off sequence or after it's done) and resetting or otherwise screwing up the motherboard.

Tom
Click to expand...

Tom to answer you questions

1) It's not the light relay. I checked it out. On my controller there are a couple of relays no used for anything. One of the unused relays is labeled filter/pump and that's the one being triggered. I assume the personality board is just sending the command to trigger that relay when I press the pool button. See 1st relay top right.100745

The lights are low voltage. There is a 12v step down transformer in a separate box between the lights and the intellitouch panel.

If I turn on the lights and wait there is there is no change in function. I let it run for 30 min to test it out. Only thing that I've notice to trigger the event is to try and change the light color. That makes it go awry.

Aside from the lighting issue. Still can't explain the heater issue. I guess I have to figure out where to go from now. Order replacement boards and just pray thats the issue other wise I'm out close to two grand. Have someone come look at it and see what they think. I'm sure to save time they'd just recommend replacing the boards too plus I'd be out their diagnostic fees and labor for install (plus their parts mark up).
 
Right, the heater relay is also perplexing. On the personality board, I believe the relay marked K5 is what drives the heater (i think it can also drive a valve). If you've got a multimeter you could test it out. If the relay seems good, but isn't turning on it could be a bad relay driver on the main board (the socketed chips)... they're a couple bucks to replace.

The other thing you could try here - since you've got screenlogic to reprogram it all - is wipe the eeprom on your outdoor board. It could have gotten fuzzed up somehow during the storm. You'll lose all of your programming but I think it's worth a shot before buying a bunch of new stuff.
 
J,

I have no idea what the problem is, but if this were my system, I would dump all the programming and redo everything.. It might cost you a few hours of work but not any money..

I would set up the basic system, and make sure it works.. Then I would start adding all the other circuits, one at a time, and test after each one.. It will either work or not, if not, it might at least narrow down the problem area.

The fact that the pumps shut off and are no longer talking to the Automation, sounds like the system is going into the Service mode...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
ogdento said:
Right, the heater relay is also perplexing. On the personality board, I believe the relay marked K5 is what drives the heater (i think it can also drive a valve). If you've got a multimeter you could test it out. If the relay seems good, but isn't turning on it could be a bad relay driver on the main board (the socketed chips)... they're a couple bucks to replace.

The other thing you could try here - since you've got screenlogic to reprogram it all - is wipe the eeprom on your outdoor board. It could have gotten fuzzed up somehow during the storm. You'll lose all of your programming but I think it's worth a shot before buying a bunch of new stuff.
Click to expand...

I'll try some of your suggestions. Thanks for the help Tom.
 
@ogdento and @Jimrahbe

Well.... I reset the system memory and was careful to reprogram all the settings exactly as before. But now I can't control my system at all with the app or by computer. There is no connection to either pump. I tried to reset the system but it that didn't work either. I'm able to connect to the system by the app and all the setting I programmed were there. I just don't have any control over it. In service mode I'm able to turn circuits on and off directly from the control panel. Hrm...


UPDATE: Well spoke too soon. I wiped epprom again and reprogrammed it ALL again (sheesh). And everything is working except controlling the heater so maybe I need to look into that. The pool lights are now back working as before so a little hope. I may just call someone out to look at the heater. Good thing is I still have manual control if I need it in the interim.
 
Last edited:
J,

I can't think of why that would be???

I have an EasyTouch so I have a little 3" display and buttons to control the ET at the equipment pad..

You have an IntelliTouch... Do you have the small display in the main panel? Other than ScreenLogic do you have remotes?

Just because ScreenLogic shows something, it does not mean that the IntelliTouch has stored it.

Do you have the ability to use Menu, Settings, and see what is actually stored in the IntelliTouch?

The first thing I'd want to check is that IntelliFlo shows the right pump and that speeds are set up.. Then are there any schedules, etc.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I have an update Jim. I spoke too soon. I wiped the epprom again and reprogrammed it ALL again (sheesh). And everything is working except controlling the heater so maybe I need to look into that. The pool lights are now back working as before so I have one win. I may just call someone out to look at the heater. Good thing is I still have manual control if I need it in the interim.
 
J,

Excellent!!! The heater is normally controlled by a small relay on one of the boards... It basically interrupts the path for 24 volts AC from the heater and then back to the heater. The Circuit is called the Firemans switch.. When the relay is open the heater does not work, and when the relay is closed the heater turn on. The heater is normally set to full hot and the automation monitors the water temp probe. If the water is less than the set point that you enter into the automation, the relay closes and turn the heater on. When the water temp gets up to the set point, the relay opens and the heater stops.. You should be able to just remove the two wires going to the heater connection and short them together and see if the heater fires up.. If you have a meter, you can then test the relay to see if you have continuity or not.

The heater connection is the two pin connector with the black and white wires at the top left of your picture..

Glad you got it working, almost...

Jim R.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply