Intellitouch i9+3 problem after storm

jwalkermed

Active member
May 5, 2016
31
Boerne, Texas
A little more information.

When testing the electric heater port I discovered the relay that is plugged into that port is actually hardwired to the heater and to a breaker. It looks likes its supplied the line voltage to the heater. When I unplug that port the heater power goes out.

When I measure the voltage across the pins here's what I get

24 volts when heater automation is off
26 volts when heater automation is on

But it seems I can't use that port for the replacement relay anyway because it's used to supply power to the heater. I wonder why they wired it though that relay to supply power rather than going right to the breaker?
 

Jimrahbe

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Jul 7, 2014
14,633
Bedford, TX
Jeff.

I suggest that you just move the wires on the load side of the relay over to the line side of the relay and this will give the heater constant AC power.. I can't understand why they ran the power through the relay at all. :scratch:

This would allow you to use the electric output to control the on/off of the heater...

What pins are you measuring across? Your readings do not make sense to me...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

jwalkermed

Active member
May 5, 2016
31
Boerne, Texas
Jim I can't imaging why either. Makes no sense. I'll have to look at the power station a bit as see if I can infer.

Here's what I was measuring per what Tom said to do. I unplugged the relay from the electric heater port. Set my mutimeter DC 200 Volts. Placed the black probe on one pin from that port and the red probe on the other pin. With heater automation off it measures 24V across the pins. With the heater automation on it measures 26V across the pins. I know that doesn't make sense. Maybe the electronics in the mother board are messed feeding wrong voltages and such.
 

Jimrahbe

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Jul 7, 2014
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Jeff,

Could be... If what you say is true, the heater would be getting AC power all the time... :scratch:

I would connect the new relay kit that you ordered to the electric heater connector. Then measure between the two green wires with an ohmmeter.. In "theory" you should have an open when the heater should be off and a short when the heater should be on..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

jwalkermed

Active member
May 5, 2016
31
Boerne, Texas
I just tested it again and the results are different. It now measures 25V with heater automation on and off. This makes no sense.

The new relay will be here sometime today from amazon so I'll let you know.

In the past the heater was powered on at all times (i.e. the control panel was lit up). But it wouldn't fire and heat until turned on by automation in the app. EDIT: I should revise this statement. I'm not sure about this. But I though it was always on. Maybe not.
 
Last edited:

Jimrahbe

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Jul 7, 2014
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Jeff,

If the heater was always powered up, then it sounds like the relay driver for the electric heater connector has failed... I'd wait and check with the new relay..

As Tom has pointed out in post # 22 The chips that control the relays are in sockets and easy to replace..

Jim R.
 

jwalkermed

Active member
May 5, 2016
31
Boerne, Texas
OK new relay just made it in. I plugged it in. I didn't take voltage reading but I know that port is not functioning correctly because when I turn automation heat on and off I hear no clicking of the relay. I didn't want to strip the wires in case of return. For comparison the actuator valves use an identical relay and when I activate them I can hear an audible click. This information just confirms what I suspected when when I measured the potential difference from the pins with heat automation on and off.

I have already ordered replacement relay driver chips. Will be here tomorrow but probably won't get to install until the wkend due to work. So I'll try that and if not I'll I'll order a new main board and go from there.

As a side note I don't think that replacement relay part would work. The relay is the correct part but the green wires are very small gauge. The master temp install manual states the follwing. "Use18 gauge wire with a minimum 3/64” (1.2mm) thick insulation rated for atemperature rise of at least 105°C" To my eye those wires look smaller than 18gauge. I can't find the writing on the wires that state the guage but it appears small. That seems like a fire risk to me. Also the wire running to the heater is too large to fit in the coupler provided for the install. See attached photos.


101167

101168

101169
 

Jimrahbe

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Jul 7, 2014
14,633
Bedford, TX
Jeff,

Do what you want, but we are talking about a low current 24 VAC circuit.. Keep in mind that the wires inside the relay are probably even smaller..

That said, you could simply use one of the high voltage relays.. The only problem with doing that is that you violate the "No low voltage wiring is allowed in the high voltage area".. I think a little common sense could go a long way here..

Jim R.
 

ogdento

Bronze Supporter
Mar 30, 2015
365
Chico, CA
I just tested it again and the results are different. It now measures 25V with heater automation on and off. This makes no sense.
You shouldn't see any voltage across the pins in the ELEC HTR connector unless heat function is on, so I am hoping the new driver will do the trick!!
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
14,633
Bedford, TX
Jeff,

One final question... Did the original gas connection start working or are you using the electric output?

Really glad you got it running..

Thanks for the feedback.

Jim R.