Intellichlor IC40 - All lights Flashing On/Off Loop

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M

mospamo

0
Apr 23, 2015
10
honolulu
Hi. I just replaced my Intellichlor SWG and it was working fine for a couple weeks until I noticed some algae growth. I went to check it and looks like the unit is going through its start up sequence with the lights all the lights going on for about two seconds then it shuts off for two seconds and back on again for a continuous loop.

Anyone know what the problem is? Thanks.
 

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I opened up the Power Center and the green light is on and it is powering the IntelliPH Controller. I tried connecting the old SWG cell to see if it would get power and the lights will flicker on for a second before going off. Going back to the new cell, the lights do not come on at all anymore.

I'm thinking this might be a power issue going from the IntelliPH controller to the SWG cell. Any thoughts?
 

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I had a similar issue this summer.

Unplug the IntelliChlor (IC) from the IntellipH (IpH) controller. Unplug the IpH controller from the Power Center. Then plug the IC into the Power Center. This troubleshooting step will eliminate the IpH from the equation. If the symptoms go away, it's the IpH. If the symptoms persist, the problem is not the IpH.

Since you're getting the same (or similar) symptoms with two different ICs, it's most likely not the IC. I, too, had a backup IC and did the same test. The problem happened with both of my ICs.

So it wasn't my IpH. And it wasn't my IC. I replaced the Power Center circuit board, and the problem went away.

If after the steps above, it still points to the Power Center, order this from Amazon and install it.


If that solves the problem, then you're done. If not, then return the board to Amazon and report back for further troubleshooting.

If the above steps point to the IpH, report back for further troubleshooting.
 
Sidebar: I now grease all my connectors outdoors. That includes the connectors of the IC and the IpH. Pretty much everything electrical that touches anything else electrical.


You might order this stuff at the same time you order the circuit board. Then lube both the male and female pins and sockets.
 
PPS...

There is a known issue with the power of the IC being drawn through the inadequate connector inside the IpH controller. There is both a fix for the problem, and a preemptive fix before the problem happens. I did a write up about how I fixed mine, and did some illustrations that cover both the repair and the preemptive fix. I don't see the problem happening on your IpH board, but you might check for any melting or charring.

Either way, you should consider the preemptive fix. We've since developed a much simpler method than what I did, or what my illustrations depict. You can perform the fix with some wire nuts or WAGO connectors.

If you buy the grease I recommend above, you'd put some on the pins of that white connector inside the IpH (circled below).

Hacking IntellipH to work in cold water

As Pentair IntellipH (IpH) automatic acid dosing system owners know, the IpH depends on a Pentair IntellliChlor (IC) saltwater chlorine generator. The IpH uses the IC's power supply, and monitors its flow switch, so that it won't dispense acid if the IC is reporting low flow. Unfortunately, it...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Hacking IntellipH to work in cold water

If you really want to have some fun add a couple of sensors to that thing. Then you don't even have to break out the test kit. Did you write up on the forum somewhere how to accomplish that? I'd like to read about it.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

PXL_20241107_011229712.jpg
 

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Yep. That's it. If the IpH is under warranty, Pentair will replace it. If not, you can repair it yourself. Can you splice wires with a wire nut or WAGO? Can you solder?

The white box and the chips just to the side of that connector, how do they look? (I circled in a pic above all the parts that sometimes take a hit.)
 
This is what you'll need to do. The grey blobs covering the spliced wires can be soldered and then covered with something insulating, or you can use wire nuts or WAGO connectors.

The small black and red wires will need to be soldered to those pins.

I prefer soldering everything, because it eliminates the possibility of future corrosion. If you use wire nuts or WAGO, use some of the grease I recommended slathered around any connections. Also, pull apart the white connector and grease all of those pins, too.

Do not mess with the white and greens, don't splice those together. Just the reds and blacks.
IntellipH-Mod-3.jpg

What's happening is: the pins in that white connector are fine at first. We think they are a cheap metal, that eventually succumbs to corrosion, which causes resistance, which causes heat, which causes the charring you're seeing. At some point, the connectors no longer pass all or any of the current/voltage correctly. And it is those big red and black wires that supply power to the IC.

By splicing the wires before they reach the connector, you'll create a new, more robust path for the current heading to the SWG. The smaller red and black wires are needed because the red and black wires also provide power to the IpH's circuit board.

This fix will void any warranty. It has been performed by several TFP members, with success.
 
Last edited:
Dirk said:
I had a similar issue this summer.

Unplug the IntelliChlor (IC) from the IntellipH (IpH) controller. Unplug the IpH controller from the Power Center. Then plug the IC into the Power Center. This troubleshooting step will eliminate the IpH from the equation. If the symptoms go away, it's the IpH. If the symptoms persist, the problem is not the IpH.

Since you're getting the same (or similar) symptoms with two different ICs, it's most likely not the IC. I, too, had a backup IC and did the same test. The problem happened with both of my ICs.

So it wasn't my IpH. And it wasn't my IC. I replaced the Power Center circuit board, and the problem went away.

If after the steps above, it still points to the Power Center, order this from Amazon and install it.


If that solves the problem, then you're done. If not, then return the board to Amazon and report back for further troubleshooting.

If the above steps point to the IpH, report back for further troubleshooting.
Click to expand...

@Dirk Great Info! I didn't realize I could bypass the IpH. I did it and the IC is up and running!

Soldering is not something I have any experience with so I might just go ahead and buy a replacement part (521513) for the IpH and play the warranty game if it happens again. Unfortunately, it looks like none of the local supply stores sell the individual part, only the whole system.
 
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Did you try calling Pentair directly to see if they'd sell you just the circuit board?

@ogdento, would you be interested in repairing the InteillipH and applying "the fix?" Perhaps you can connect with @mospamo to discuss.

@mospamo, if you can't get the board fixed, I'd be interested in acquiring the old controller. I have a use for both the old chassis and/or the circuit board and/or the external cable. I could at least defer some of the cost of the new controller.

One of those three options might save you some money...
 
PS. Know that buying a new controller, or just replacing the circuit board, will not fix the over-current problem permanently. It's probable that it'll just happen again in some number of years.
 
Dirk said:
@mospamo, if you can't get the board fixed, I'd be interested in acquiring the old controller. I have a use for both the old chassis and/or the circuit board and/or the external cable. I could at least defer some of the cost of the new controller.

One of those three options might save you some money...
Click to expand...
@Dirk you've been more than helpful! I'd be happy to send it to you when I replace it.
 
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