Importance of a Clean Filter

[f3justusc]

Over the last 5 days, I have noticed algae spots on the sun ledge and in the corner of my swim lane. My water is crystal clear ad no other algae is visible in the pool. I was starting to think that circulation in the area was causing the problem due to no bubblers on the ledge. Today, I started messing with the two returns in that area and it hit me. I was getting good flow out of the returns but it wasn't great. Bingo! I cleaned the filter and the flow is great again! The pressure was high but not 10% above starting. I don't love cleaning the filter but I am going to start doing it once/week no matter what to ensure it's really able to do its job.

No help is needed, I just wanted to share

 

[Jimrahbe]

F3,

Low flow does not cause algae... Algae causes low flow..

You have algae because you are just not keeping your FC and CYA at the proper levels. Algae starts long before you can see any green.

I realize that you live in Florida, the land of the Dinky Filters, so it makes sense to clean it a little more often, but for reference, I clean mine twice a year.. If you have to clean your filter once a week you have got a problem.

Chemicals keep your pool sanitized and clear, not your filter. But the time the filter sees the algae, you have already lost the algae war..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[f3justusc]

F3,

Low flow does not cause algae... Algae causes low flow..

You have algae because you are just not keeping your FC and CYA at the proper levels. Algae starts long before you can see any green.

I realize that you live in Florida, the land of the Dinky Filters, so it makes sense to clean it a little more often, but for reference, I clean mine twice a year.. If you have to clean your filter once a week you have got a problem.

Chemicals keep your pool sanitized and clear, not your filter. But the time the filter sees the algae, you have already lost the algae war..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Jim, my last full set of readings were:

FC - 5.5
CC - 0
CYA - 35
CH - 525
TA -80
Plaster pool. 2 months old. The spots are only on the ledge and in a corner. They come and go.
My pool is not covered with lots of trees and storms. Filter does get dirty fast.
Thoughts

 

[Jimrahbe]

Thoughts

F3,

My first thought is that you are running a SWCG with a CYA of 35.. You can do that no problem, but the sun will consume your FC pretty quickly.. So it would be important when your FC is measured, and how long you run your pump.. A ridiculous example would be if you ran your pump for one hour a day and tested your FC right after the pump shut off.. That 5.5 ppm of FC would have to last for almost 24 hours.. A stupid example, but the point is when you measure your FC is important.

Your numbers look pretty good to me, but 'assume' you do not have algae..

The Target FC and CYA levels in this chart FC/CYA Levels work great when you do NOT have algae, but once you have algae, these levels will never kill it. Often the algae will get knocked back by the chlorine so it is not a solid green mess we often see, but it is still there.

In theory, when you first see any signs of algae, you should do a SLAM...

The sooner you do a SLAM, the faster the SLAM can be completed.

Once the algae is killed, then running at the recommended FC/CYA levels should keep you algae free forever..

When you have a SWCG, you should never need to add packets of pool store shock.. I'm just curious if you are still routinely using shock or not???

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[f3justusc]

F3,

My first thought is that you are running a SWCG with a CYA of 35.. You can do that no problem, but the sun will consume your FC pretty quickly.. So it would be important when your FC is measured, and how long you run your pump.. A ridiculous example would be if you ran your pump for one hour a day and tested your FC right after the pump shut off.. That 5.5 ppm of FC would have to last for almost 24 hours.. A stupid example, but the point is when you measure your FC is important.

Your numbers look pretty good to me, but 'assume' you do not have algae..

The Target FC and CYA levels in this chart FC/CYA Levels work great when you do NOT have algae, but once you have algae, these levels will never kill it. Often the algae will get knocked back by the chlorine so it is not a solid green mess we often see, but it is still there.

In theory, when you first see any signs of algae, you should do a SLAM...

The sooner you do a SLAM, the faster the SLAM can be completed.

Once the algae is killed, then running at the recommended FC/CYA levels should keep you algae free forever..

When you have a SWCG, you should never need to add packets of pool store shock.. I'm just curious if you are still routinely using shock or not???

Thanks,

Jim R.

No SWCG.

 

[Jimrahbe]

No SWCG.

F3,

Sorry, not sure why I thought you did.

But the basic concept is still the same.. If you have an FC of 5.5 now, and won't be adding chlorine for 24 hours, the FC you have now needs to be enough to stay in your Target range until you add your next dose of chlorine.

Thanks,

Jim R.