IceShadow’s pool thread 2023

The patch panel is on a 6" deep wall mount bracket. And I already have the 48 port switch, but it just sits on the shelf below the patch panel. The cords there are.......less neat. Not sure how to handle those. >.>
Sorry, missed that wall mount. If you went with something similar to that but just a bit larger like 6U, you could then get your switch close to the patch panels and run short 6" patch cables. Something like this:
IMG_9850-2.jpg

Makes for a cleaner install but you know what, they all work the same. Good job getting everything wired up. Gives you lots of options for the future!
 

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Still need to troubleshoot the heater bypass but last night I replaced the box/conduit for my pump, and wired up the SWCG. So that's all up and going. Will monitor FC for the next few days to get it dialed in. Right now I have it set to 20% at 100% runtime (pump is running 24/7 at about 1700 RPM).

To do:

- Add more salt, do an OCLT to verify no issues, then bump CYA up beyond the 30 or so that it's at now
- Investigate the downspouts to see what's below them and figure out best way to tie the waste into the downspout near the pad (going into the storm sewer) - I have a Jandy 3-way valve ready for this
- When able, I'd like to get a Current Sensing Relay and set it up to turn off the SWCG when the pump is off (since the pump acts as the timer) - I plan to run the pump 24/7, but you never know what might happen if the pump goes down

The heater could be a problem if it runs if the pump goes down too...but I'm not sure that's worth setting up some kind of Current Sensing Relay (or somehow tying into the other one) because it has two safety features already between the flow sensor and the thermostat. Both would have to fail (reading water flowing when not, reading heat needed when not) for the heater to be heating without water flowing for long.
 
5am test (one hour ahead of sunrise): 4.0 / 4.8 on the test at 10/25ml (much better for accuracy, I must have been a drop short on the 10ml test last night). Either way a pass. Turning salt cell back on to 100% for a day so I can do an OCGT tonight.

Back to bed for noooowwww
 
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I just tested it now after about 4 hours and it’s up 1.4ppm. Considering the sun is up now I think that’s pretty good.

Time to put more CYA in.
 
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Okay - 6lb 11oz more CYA dissolving in the pool. That’s about the most this poor mesh laundry bag can handle. And time to buy some more - starting to run low on my 25lb box.

Also took the robot out, rinsed it off, put it on its stand, and coiled the cord as nicely as I could, after reading the thread on a repair person here saying you shouldn’t leave it in the pool all the time. Hopefully this helps with the snared cord issue.
 
I found CYA for about $1.60 a pound in a 45 pound pail. Seems about the least expensive I can find it anywhere. Anyone have any experience with this brand?


Edit: $81 shipping costs, never mind. 😵‍💫
 
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OK, I have dissolved the CYA in the pool. I did another bag of salt yesterday morning too - ran the robot a few times to make sure it all dissolved, had the SWCG off until this morning to ensure it was dissolved and blended with the pool. My chems should now be in line. I'll give it a few more days and then test my CYA level to see if I'm at the expected 70.

PPM is by weight, right? I wonder if I can mix up my own 50ppm reference sample of CYA. If it's by weight, and I use say 1g of CYA, then I would need to put it in 20kg / 20L of water. I'll have to see how small of a measurement I can get with my kitchen scales but I'm suspecting I'd have to do more than that to get any sort of precision, and it won't be practical to do. I don't have a scale that measures precisely in very tiny amounts of things.

EDIT: Looks like a precision scale that measures up to 200g in 0.01g increments with a 50g calibration weight is only about $16 on Amazon....🤔
 
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Scale coming in Friday. Gonna try to mix my own 50ppm CYA control sample. :D Wonder if it needs days to dissolve just a little granule in a lot of water....
 
This may be a silly question, but when adding DE to a sand filter, I'm assuming the 1 PSI rise is at full pressure from the pump, not a lower speed?

My filter gauge is showing about 15 PSI when going full bore (3000 RPM) now that I've added the heater bypass and the salt cell, and when it's down at 1700 RPM for standard maintenance it's only about 5 PSI. 1 PSI increase is going to be a lot different between those two run speeds...
 

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