IceShadow - SWCG Thread

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So. If I plan to run my pump all the time (did last year, like 2 hours at full speed (3000 RPM) to mix water better and skim better, then 6 hours at fast enough for the heater flow switch, about 2200 RPM, then the other 16 hours at 1200 RPM or so - would a timer be any help? If the pump goes down it could be an issue but that could happen with or without the timer for the SWCG.
 
If you run 24/7 the timer is moot. In the off chance the pump dies, your flow switch is the fail safe.
 
IceShadow said:
like 2 hours at full speed (3000 RPM) to mix water better and skim better,
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I would skip this part and see if the world keeps spinning. I bet you won't see a difference. There's no way around activating the heater for 6 hours if that's what you need, but if your water is already moving all day, the full RPM for 2 hours isn't doing much that the 6 hours at 2k wasn't already doing.
 
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Until you mentioned it I didn’t realize that you get 10 more # with solar salt than pool salt 🧂 😑
We’re really getting the shaft around here!
 

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Salt all seems to be dissolved. I’ll run the robot one more time to mix the water again and then I can test it tonight.

Now I just need FedEx to actually deliver the package… It’s signature required, their online signature doesn’t seem to be functioning, and even though I called yesterday to say, hold it at a FedEx location, it’s out for delivery again today. Maybe I’ll work from home…
 
Saturn94 said:
Agreed!

I have a friend (in another state) that has a Mernards. She has access to much cheaper chlorine (and much fresher!) and salt than we ever have here. ☹️
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My friend drove all the way to a menards up in Missouri from here to get his siding- he said even with the gas it came out cheaper than lowes or hd.
 
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proavia said:
I assume you don't run the pump 24/7.

How are you going to control power to the SWG without a timer or automation?

The flow switch is the secondary safety device. Automation or timer is the primary safety device.
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When installing SWG with VSP /w internal timers, you can use current sensing relays to measure if the pump is running and only power the SWG while it is on. It's less useful if pump is scheduled for 24/7 runtime, but gives better protection than just relying on the flow switch. Search "SWG current" and you will find threads like: Current Sensing Relay for SWG with Variable Speed pump

.... and I love that 3-way install. Looks great!
 
fields_g said:
When installing SWG with VSP /w internal timers, you can use current sensing relays to measure if the pump is running and only power the SWG while it is on. It's less useful if pump is scheduled for 24/7 runtime, but gives better protection than just relying on the flow switch. Search "SWG current" and you will find threads like: Current Sensing Relay for SWG with Variable Speed pump

.... and I love that 3-way install. Looks great!
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I will absolutely check this out. I don’t need my pump going down and the flow switch failing.

And unfortunately I don’t know that the 3-way install worked. I turned off the pump, changed the handle, turned on the pump, and the heater was still getting water - enough to turn on the flow switch. I’ll have to check that out later.
 
…wow that may be beyond me. I like to think I’m a smart guy but electrical is the one spot I’m really not able to wrap my head around. It’s my Achilles’ heel.

I’d likely need someone to walk me through it all. I do want to do it, but I’m not sure how I’d get it done without assistance. :(
 
You may want others to chime in since I haven't done this (I have an external timer). With a quick look around, I found this recent comment that looks pretty helpful. current sensing relay help

My brief explanation.... the pump, relay, and SWG all need power. They share the same L1 and L2 from a breaker. The key is that L1 going to the pump is monitored to ensure there is an adequate load before energizing the L2 that goes to the SWG. The L1 monitoring is done by looping the L1 wire going to the pump through a loop on the relay board several times. Since it is a VSP and can run at low amperage, this may be up to 6 times to get enough of a reading.

The spec sheet for the device they used in that thread (including part numbers) can be found here: https://www.troublefreepool.com/attachments/6c055_2-pdf.424949/


Again, someone may have an alternate suggestion for what device to use, but the concept should be the same.
 

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