IceShadow - SWCG Thread

[IceShadow]

OK, so:

- Get a new box to contain the CSR
- L1 line (one of the two from the breakers) goes to my exterior toggle switch. I then splice it over to the SWG's L1 input on one line. Run through conduit up to the box with the CSR, splice it there, have one line looping around the sensor, then send it down to my pump and the other to the 1 pin on the CSR.
- L2 line (second of the two from the breakers) gets spliced and goes to the pump on one line. Other line gets spliced and put to both 2 and 3 on the CSR. Then a wire from 4 goes to the L2 input on the SWG.
- Neutrals will all just go direct to my box with the toggle switch and get wired together, pump neutral line to SWG neutral line to the neutral coming from the breakers. Edit: never mind, 240v apparently doesn't need a neutral (see prior disclaimer about how electricity is my blind spot)
- Grounds similarly all just tied together.

Do I have it right?

EDIT: Maybe a box like this to contain the CSR?

Amazon.com

 

[fields_g]

I think you are really close. I see you mention using neutral. Is either your pump or SWG using 120V? My SWG can be jumpered to use either. In the schematic shown, 240v is used by all and no neutrals are used.

 

[IceShadow]

Oh, ok. It’s been a while since I wired the pump. Used to a neutral ^.^

Also working from home thwarted FedEx successfully!

 

[IceShadow]

So things I will need:

- two 2” to 1-1/2” Sch40 pvc reducers to hook this to my 1-1/2” piping

- conduit to run between toggle switch box and new power center box

- wire for the same

- anchors and screws to mount the power center box

I can just knock out the top of this switch box right? Have conduit run from that up to the SWCG power box.

 

[IceShadow]

Re-tested salt on the opposite side of the pool from where I dumped it in - 3200 ppm, right where I expected it to be. I'll hold back the last bag for now.

 

[Davegnh]

I also tend to see lower salt readings in colder water from the Pentair swg. Until the water gets into the '70s I always see much lower readings from the salt generator then what I measured. So even though you have 3200 in my experience you may get a low salt reading from the swcg if in 50/60's. Not sure if you're running the heater yet.

 

[IceShadow]

I am a bit to keep it around 70 on the heater, which is 68 or so in practice. But first step is to install this and it's raining out. So it might not be able to happen today.

 

[IceShadow]

Well that was an adventure.

Got supplies. Got the cell in the plumbing. Finally got the wiring all together. Tested the breaker on and saw lights on inside the cell power box and pump was running. Turned breaker off. Put the wiring back in the switch’s box and turn breaker back on. Now the pump runs but the salt cell has no lights in the box. Used a line tester and both incoming lines are live. Now I’m stumped.

Edit: checked the fuse, not blown. Maybe one of the wires came loose inside the switch box but not both? Would that cause both to show hot?

 

[IceShadow]

Also, I had to use a 3/4” to 1/2” reducer bushing out of my switch box to get the 1/2” conduit I bought to connect, and I’m pretty sure it’s not meant to be used that way. Is there a better product for that in this application?

 

[PoolStored]

Also, I had to use a 3/4” to 1/2” reducer bushing out of my switch box to get the 1/2” conduit I bought to connect, and I’m pretty sure it’s not meant to be used that way. Is there a better product for that in this application?

Not sure I'm picking up what you are laying down. Can you post a pic of the context?

 

[IceShadow]

Not sure I'm picking up what you are laying down. Can you post a pic of the context?

See pic below. The box for my switch has a 3/4” threaded knockout. The power supply box for the SWCG has a 1/2” hole. So I used 1/2” flex conduit with 1/2” ends and then a 3/4” to 1/2” reduction bushing from the plumbing aisle to make it all fit together. Seems like that might not be a good solution in an outdoor setting.

 

[PoolStored]

See pic below. The box for my switch has a 3/4” threaded knockout. The power supply box for the SWCG has a 1/2” hole. So I used 1/2” flex conduit with 1/2” ends and then a 3/4” to 1/2” reduction bushing from the plumbing aisle to make it all fit together. Seems like that might not be a good solution in an outdoor setting.

That is waterproof with the compression fittings. No issues. Good to go!

 

[IceShadow]

That is waterproof with the compression fittings. No issues. Good to go!

Ok. Wasn’t sure if iron fittings were a good idea. >.>

Honestly I need to replace the box. I’ll order one now and do that tomorrow or Friday.

Still am not sure why the SWCG power box isn’t going though.

 

[PoolStored]

Ok. Wasn’t sure if iron fittings were a good idea. >.>

Honestly I need to replace the box. I’ll order one now and do that tomorrow or Friday.

Still am not sure why the SWCG power box isn’t going though.

I really don't understand what this means...

 

[IceShadow]

I really don't understand what this means...

My SWCG power supply has two hot wires going into it but no light inside and no power to the cell.

 

[PoolStored]

My SWCG power supply has two hot wires going into it but no light inside and no power to the cell.

 

[generessler]

I haven't followed this thread for a while, but from recent posts it seems possible you've wired the SWG to 240vac, and it's expecting 120vac. Have you carefully verified jumper settings match supply voltage? How are you checking the fuse? And are you sure there aren't others?

Unfortunately if you wired improperly and fuses didn't blow, something else did. Not pretty. You will need to find the failed component and replace it.

Separate comment: Most knock-outs in panels allow diameters of either 1/2 or 3/4 depending on how you knock them out. If you've already taken the 3/4" option, you're committed. Some kind of reducer is all you can do. I'm no code expert, but can't imagine this is a problem.

 

[Ahultin]

The wiring in the power center appears to be correct for 230vac, yellow to line 1 (blue) white to line 2 (black). Black and violet from from transformer tied together.
Do you have a multimeter to test line 1 to line 2 to ensure you are getting 230v? You cannot just rely on your tester showing them both hot.
I don't see that you have a ground run, you'll want to add that.
Have you pulled the switch to see if something shorted or came loose in there? Also is the switch 2 pole?

 

[IceShadow]

I haven't followed this thread for a while, but from recent posts it seems possible you've wired the SWG to 240vac, and it's expecting 120vac. Have you carefully verified jumper settings match supply voltage? How are you checking the fuse? And are you sure there aren't others?

I don’t think there’s jumpers, just wire settings in this box. Fuse was removed and visually inspected, looks whole. If there’s more fuses I’m unaware of where they would be.

Unfortunately if you wired improperly and fuses didn't blow, something else did. Not pretty. You will need to find the failed component and replace it.

Hopefully not. We will see!

Separate comment: Most knock-outs in panels allow diameters of either 1/2 or 3/4 depending on how you knock them out. If you've already taken the 3/4" option, you're committed. Some kind of reducer is all you can do. I'm no code expert, but can't imagine this is a problem.

The exterior box just has 3/4” threaded. I removed a plug but otherwise there was no 1/2” option. I’m getting a zinc reducer to replace the iron one I got from the hardware store. And a whole new box honestly, as some of the screw connections are stripped out.

 

[IceShadow]

The wiring in the power center appears to be correct for 230vac, yellow to line 1 (blue) white to line 2 (black). Black and violet from from transformer tied together.
Do you have a multimeter to test line 1 to line 2 to ensure you are getting 230v? You cannot just rely on your tester showing them both hot.
I don't see that you have a ground run, you'll want to add that.
Have you pulled the switch to see if something shorted or came loose in there? Also is the switch 2 pole?

I haven’t pulled the switch yet. I’ll do that tomorrow when I replace the box it’s in. My suspicion is that a wire came loose. It’s pretty crowded in there now. It is a 2 pole switch and has been running the pump on 230v.

If the wires didn’t come loose I’ll check with my multimeter.

Does L1 / L2 matter as to which goes to white and which to yellow? I’m not sure which is which coming from my panel - there’s a red and a blue wire. I did blue to blue and black to red on the other side of my exterior switch.