IceShadow - SWCG Thread

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proavia said:
I was wondering about the heater use in WI. If you didn't use it much, a heater bypass would be beneficial to have as you could run the pump as a lower RPM and still satisfy the SWG flow switch. But since the heater is a big part of your pool enjoyment, a heater bypass would be good in case the heater broke as you could isolate the heater and still run the pump. You may still consider the heater bypass, it will add about $150 in parts for the 3-way Jandy valve and Jandy check valve.

The Pentair SWG is more easily controlled with Pentair automation.
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Thinking more about this: Is this what you mean?

Planned Pipe Work.jpg

Just need a 3-way valve to divert water either to the heater or to a pipe that bypasses it. Then need a 3-way PVC fitting (no valve) to connect that pipe to the pipe beyond the heater, and a check valve to make sure the water is directed to the return and doesn't go back into the heater. Correct?
 
So the ICXX has an internal flow switch immediately upon water entering the cell and Pentair recs having 12+ inches of straight pipe before it. That said, my own was sweep 90'd directly to my HP and worked great, I imagine yours would too with a simple plumbing setup.

It might even have enough pipe as is to satisfy the rec.
 
Newdude said:
So the ICXX has an internal flow switch immediately upon water entering the cell and Pentair recs having 12+ inches of straight pipe before it. That said, my own was sweep 90'd directly to my HP and worked great, I imagine yours would too with a simple plumbing setup.

It might even have enough pipe as is to satisfy the rec.
Click to expand...
I can put it pretty close to the elbow heading to the split return pipes.

I'd still need a check valve if I'm going to make a heater bypass setup, though.
 
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IceShadow said:
Thinking more about this: Is
IceShadow said:
Thinking more about this: Is this what you mean?

View attachment 482043

Just need a 3-way valve to divert water either to the heater or to a pipe that bypasses it. Then need a 3-way PVC fitting (no valve) to connect that pipe to the pipe beyond the heater, and a check valve to make sure the water is directed to the return and doesn't go back into the heater. Correct?
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Correct

File:Heater Bypass Schematic.jpg - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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I could also use a sanitary T into that mostly vertical run of pipe down from the heater with the check valve right behind it.

1681319162791.jpeg
 
You could, as long as it's sched 40 and the socket depth is the same as a normal sched 40 'T'. If you already have one on hand, that's fine - but no need to pay extra over the price of a standard 'T' as it won't improve flow resistance (at least an amount you will ever notice).
 
proavia said:
You could, as long as it's sched 40 and the socket depth is the same as a normal sched 40 'T'. If you already have one on hand, that's fine - but no need to pay extra over the price of a standard 'T' as it won't improve flow resistance (at least an amount you will ever notice).
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Sounds good. I'm always worried about flow since my pump is located probably 6-8 feet above my pool surface and seems tough to prime at times. But this is on the outflow, so....
 
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markayash said:
Tell her you will save on test kit refills, you kind of slack off when the FC is the same as it has been everyday for the last 3 weeks :)
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I dunno, I always have extra reagents by the time the year is up anyway and have to replace due to expiration. Part of a short swim season. :)
 
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IceShadow said:
I dunno, I always have extra reagents by the time the year is up anyway and have to replace due to expiration. Part of a short swim season. :)
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But you may need antidepressants when you realize your pool doesn't need you anymore.
We go to the beach for 2 and 3 weeks at a time and I leave with FC at 7 and come home with it the same and crystal clear water.
 
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Looks like I’ll have just enough room to install the valve. I assume I change the top by 90 degrees so the inlet faces the way it’s coming in.

2A061F1D-9F4F-4156-BD43-A6E658EEDD41.jpeg
 
Yup - INLET points toward the pump. And since this valve will be after the pump, INLET points toward the side water comes from.

If this vavle were being placed between the suction line (skimmer, main drain, etc), INLET would still be on the side closest to the pump - which is the side water is going to.
 
I assume you don't run the pump 24/7.

How are you going to control power to the SWG without a timer or automation?

The flow switch is the secondary safety device. Automation or timer is the primary safety device.
 

Pentair superflo VS and IC60 with timer

I have a pentair superflo vs part number 342001. I also have a timer that I have set to permanently on since I use the timer functions on the variable speed pump. I am planning on purchasing the IC60 salt cell and power center. I am struggling with how to operate it. The pump is 220v. It...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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proavia said:
I assume you don't run the pump 24/7.

How are you going to control power to the SWG without a timer or automation?

The flow switch is the secondary safety device. Automation or timer is the primary safety device.
Click to expand...
I mean, I typically do. I usually run about 3000 RPM for a couple of hours a day to help more with skimming, and then the rest of the day about 1000 to 1500 RPM.
 

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