IC40 red flow, but replaced flow switch already

[ARDiver86]

Hello everyone. I have a pool I had built close to 5 years ago and a IC40 was put in. I havent had any trouble out of it until this year when I went to open my pool it shows a red flow light and the salt level is blinking between good and low.

My assumption is the salt level reading isn't working because it doesn't detect flow. I decided to order a replacement flow switch (off brand from Amazon) and even after replacing it I have the same problem.

It is facing the correct way, the flow is perfectly fine, the cells are clean and I cleaned then again (3/4 water with the rest muratic acid). When I hold down the more button for diagnostics it shows green on the cell and 60% life (three green dots).

Do you think this device is bad or I happen to get a bad flow switch? The strange thing is with the original flow switch it would sometimes show green flow but very rarely since opening a couple weeks ago. If it did turn green it would turn back red a few minutes later.

I'm at a loss and hoping I do not need to replace it this year. Is there any other diagnostics I could do?

 

[Jimrahbe]

86,

If you already replaced the flow switch and the flow is good, then...

The cell is bad
The new flow switch bad (Unlikely)
The new connections are bad.

Disconnect the Red and Black wires coming from the cell going to the new flow switch.. (It is not working so what do you have to lose?)

Strip back a little plastic from the ends of the wires and look to make sure the wires are not corroded. They can be.

Then with the pump running, connect the Red and Black wires (from the cell) together and see if the flow light turns green. Give it a couple of minutes to change.

If the flow light turns green it means the connection was not good or the new flow switch is bad.

If the flow light stays red, then the cell is bad. It could be just a bad LED, or it could be a bad flow circuit detector.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ARDiver86]

86,

If you already replaced the flow switch and the flow is good, then...

The cell is bad
The new flow switch bad (Unlikely)
The new connections are bad.

Disconnect the Red and Black wires coming from the cell going to the new flow switch.. (It is not working so what do you have to lose?)

Strip back a little plastic from the ends of the wires and look to make sure the wires are not corroded. They can be.

Then with the pump running, connect the Red and Black wires (from the cell) together and see if the flow light turns green. Give it a couple of minutes to change.

If the flow light turns green it means the connection was not good or the new flow switch is bad.

If the flow light stays red, then the cell is bad. It could be just a bad LED, or it could be a bad flow circuit detector.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Hi Jim! Thank you for your response. The connections are good and clean. I have also tried jumping it with the red and black wires connected and leaving the other wires still connected to flow switch, it doesn't change the light at all and it remains red.

So it is sounding like the cell is bad. The diagnostics shows a solid green on the cell though. If it's looking like the cell, is it possible to disassemble it so I can see if the connections on the inside are corroded? I tried to find a disassembly guide but was not successful. It does look like at the top maybe a flathead could open the top up and it lift up and out? Just not sure.

 

[Jimrahbe]

86,

There is nothing you can repair on the inside of the cell.

Sorry,

Jim R.