Holy Cannoli stuffed with Ricotta - finally got my Eero system to behave with the iAqualink 2.0 after days of fighting with it.
The gory story:
The Eero system has multiple MAC addresses within its overall system. One for each ethernet port, plus one for each of the 3 wifi controllers (2 are used for actual user SSID connectivity and one that is a hidden SSID for backhaul between Eero beacons and gateways). The software in the iAqualink 2.0 control box is poorly written, and too brittle to be able to differentiate between multiple SSIDs on a wireless network when issuing a DHCP request to get an IP address. Nor does the iAqualink webpage show you which MAC address/WIFI SSID combo you are connecting too. Had they put this tiny bit of data on the connection screen, it would have made this WAY easier to diagnose. This is why the iAqualink will often connect just fine to the Wifi SSID (yellow light illuminated), but never get an IP address to communicate out on the public internet with.
Pool automation equipment is the ONE THING on a property that is most likely to be far away from the main router and needs an excellent antenna, transmit/receive power, and quality software to work right. Shame on you Jandy for this nonsense... There are plenty of extremely smart hardware and software engineers in the San Diego metro area that you could have hired to help make this thing more robust (HP, Qualcomm, Teradata). This product obviously was not well tested in a real-world scenario ... there are plenty of homes with pools in the SD metro area you could have reached out to for user acceptance testing.
Anyhow, directions below are for AT&T Internet with the Pace 5268 gateway (I have it with AT&T Fiber, but same process if you use that gateway with DSL) and Eero Pro - 1 main access point and 2 beacons.
If you have cable internet, it will all depend if your cable modem is in bridge mode or router mode. Some IT savvy folks have bought their own cable modem and set it in bridge mode to do more advanced stuff - if you do this, Eero may not work with iAqualink due to the MAC address/IP address I mention above. You need the router/modem/gateway to act as DHCP server, and the Eero system to focus only on distributing a Wifi signal (to get over this iAqualink software deficiency).
And FYI - if you are looking in the Eero app, the iAqualink is using a chip called "Microchip Technology Inc." - you may see others listed for Apple, Hon Hai Precision (Sony TVs), Coulomb Technologies (Chargepoint charger), etc.
What I did:
1. Factory reset the AT&T Pace gateway to get it to default settings
2. Connected my PC via ethernet to the AT&T Pace gateway
3. Disabled ALL Wifi on the AT&T gateway, so it is not needlessly spewing Wifi that nothing is going to connect it. You have to click a small "Advanced Settings" link on the WIFI settings page to get to this. Be sure to turn off ALL Wifi (2.4g, 5.8g, and also the guest network).
4. Factory reset the Eero access point.
5. Connect the Eero access point to the AT&T gateway via ethernet. Run through normal setup for your Wifi network name/password you want Eero to transmit. Do not set up the beacons yet.
6. AFTER your Wifi is set up, go into the Eero app and change the Eero to "Bridge" mode (under DHCP & NAT). Eero will reboot.
7. Go to iAqualink box outside, toggle the wired/wifi switch inside to reset the wifi on it
8. Connect your phone/tablet/PC to the iAqualink SSID
9. Popup screen should list all the networks it can see - pick the new SSID you just set up on Eero.
10. Close up the iAqualink box - you're done there.
11. Connect your phone/tablet/PC back to your new Wifi network
12. iAqualink should now connect to your new Wifi (power cycle Jandy if not)
13. Set up your Eero beacons as usual using the Eero app
14. Crack open a beer and go float in the pool, because you deserve it
Setting up Bridge mode means you don't get all the extra features like pausing internet for the kids or Eero secure. But for me, being able to turn the hot tub on remotely while coming home from skiing is way more important. YMMV.
Once you get the iAqualink to connect to your Wifi, it will roam to the beacon with a stronger signal. You can then move the beacons around the house to get a strong enough signal out to the iAqualink - such if it is out behind a detached garage or back of the yard.