Hi forum, so I recently switched my wireless router to an Eero 5 Pro mesh system. I hadn’t noticed issues recently before the switch, but after switching I cannot get my IAquaLink 2.0 to connect to the web. I have no issues with it connecting to the mesh WiFi...it shows up on my network with full wifi signal strength. However, I cannot achieve the green light at my antenna box out by my pool equipment....I just get the yellow light. Google and Reddit searches so far are only turning up problems that users had actually connecting to the wifi network which isn’t my issue. I just can’t get a web connection and therefore the status is red in my IAquaLink app and I can’t remote control my pool equipment. Has anyone else encountered this problem and have advice on how to get this fixed?
IAquaLink 2.0 connection problem...connects to network but not web
- Thread starter linzi618
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,309
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
From Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading
iAqualink Working with Mesh Routers
Problems have been reported with iAqualink connecting to mesh routers like Eero.Ways to get a stable WIFi connection include assigning a fixed IP address to iAqualink, unplugging "extension" units (nodes) and setting the router to only broadcast 2.4 GHz. After the eero is "simplified" to a single node broadcasting on a single frequency - follow the normal reset procedures )turning the switch from Wired to Wireless and going into the network on a iphone and setting up the iAquaLink connection).[10]Eero support's comment are that iAquaLink was seeing too many connections with the same ID (because of how the mesh works) and getting confused. By using only one node the iAquaLink only saw one connection on each network. Use the Guest network to keep an unsecured device off the main network.
Some people have found the easiest fix is to install a simple WiFi router or access point operating at 2.4Ghz to use for the iAqualink connection.
Thank you. The problem I am having isn’t with getting connected to my WiFi network, per se, because the IAquaLink is showing up on my eero app perfectly with full bars. It’s getting it to connect then to the internet itself. Perhaps I’m interpreting my problem incorrectly. I’ve read the same info you’ve given me as well as suggestions to set up a guest network to work around if you have eero secure enabled (which I do not). The pic I’ve attached is showing that my iaqualink controller is solidly connected to my mesh network. It’s just not making that next step of getting an actual internet connection. Perhaps my network admin comprehension is lacking....
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
ScottHudson
New member
Having the same issue myself. Yesterday it worked just fine, today not working at all. I’ve reset the entire thing, powered down from the unit completely and still can’t get it to connect. I also went to the iAquaLink web form and this is down, too.
Hi linzi618 were you able to get this resolved? I'm having the same problem myself with the IQ900, however in my case I'm using a wired connection, not wireless. But the iaqualink device is on my network, it just doesn't connect to the internet. Yellow light on the transceiver remains on, I never get the green. Please let me know if you made any further progress with troubleshooting.
thank you.
Paul
thank you.
Paul
I had the same issue. I found an answer and it worked. Try using your guest network. I also had to switch the wired/wifi quite a few times to finally get the green. This is the only way it worked for me after i installed the eero mesh. Hope this works for you. I also was unable to follow the IAquaLink set up using my Samsung Galaxy s10. Once I tried it on my Ipad it worked super easy, but using the guest WiFi. Currently with the new app update I am having a problem connecting to my Galaxy it keeps saying I’m offline (I used this almost everyday and suddenly on June 11, 2021 it says offline). The update is working fine on my husbands Galaxy s7 and my Ipad and my computer. I found a suggestion to clear the cache on the actual Iaqualink box. I’m going to try it tonight. I’ll try to come back a post my results.
Last edited:
Yes this is exactly how I got mine to work with eero mesh using the guest network. Do you have any suggestions on the new app update? My Samsung s10plus now only shows offline since June 11, 2021. I use my app all the time. I reset the WiFi the whole process from beginning to end. Still not working. Uninstalled then reinstalled the app still nothing. I even tried the web site saved to my phone and still wouldn’t connect, saying offline. My husbands Samsung s7 and my Ipad are both still working fine, just not on my Galaxy s10 plus. Any suggestions? Thank you
Donna
I just wanted to say I have had a iAqualink for years with no issue and about 2-3 weeks ago it went offline, and it still connects to the wifi no problem (I can reset it and reconnect it to the wifi no problem), and the schedule is still running on the equipment and I can control it in service mode, but for some reason it wont connect to the service on the internet. Not sure if its related but upon seeing this I wonder if there was a software update at some point recently?
bk
bk
MSchutzer
Silver Supporter
There were some connection issues after a recent iAqualink App upgrade. To restore the connection I had to go into the App and Log Out and the Log back in to your account. After logging back in everything connected to the web again.
Same issues. Device connected to the guest network as I can see the IP assigned to it. However, red dot on my app. Has anyone thought that this company might have issues with their cloud server. Because the way this thing works is a round trip to authenticate the device on their cloud server and back.
Btw, I think their customer service is despicable.
Btw, I think their customer service is despicable.
MSchutzer
Silver Supporter
Have you logged out and logged back on to your iAqualink account? That’s what fixed it for me.
I'm having the same issue. I can see the IP address in the eero app, but it has serious trouble connecting to the internet. I will occasionally get a connection. But it's not reliable in the slightest. I've been able to connect it to the main and guest network. I have more luck with the guest, but not much more.
Thanks Mark,
Had the same issue, Logged out of the app, then back in. Issue solved.
Seems the upgrade caused the problem
Jandy wanted me to re-link the system to my router.
tleonard2
New member
Thank you! I was getting no iPhone connection on my new installation after it had been working. But just by doing what you said - logging out on the iPhone App and logging back in - I am now connected. I probably should have been able to figure that out myself, but your recommendation was very helpful.
Wolfepack88
Gold Supporter
- Jun 21, 2020
- 757
- Pool Size
- 17690
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I'm about to go live this week and took the trouble of having a conduit installed to run a cat6 cable to the connection and back to a switch in my basement hoping to avoid the wifi glitch with my Orbi. Crossing this works, but will definitely keep the logging out and logging back in on the app for any future gremlins.
Wolfepack88
Gold Supporter
- Jun 21, 2020
- 757
- Pool Size
- 17690
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Went live today on the pool and we ran the ethernet cable through conduit, we used an outdoor rated (CMX) ethernet cable and she fired right up and was recognized in my Orbi network.
Holy Cannoli stuffed with Ricotta - finally got my Eero system to behave with the iAqualink 2.0 after days of fighting with it.
The gory story:
The Eero system has multiple MAC addresses within its overall system. One for each ethernet port, plus one for each of the 3 wifi controllers (2 are used for actual user SSID connectivity and one that is a hidden SSID for backhaul between Eero beacons and gateways). The software in the iAqualink 2.0 control box is poorly written, and too brittle to be able to differentiate between multiple SSIDs on a wireless network when issuing a DHCP request to get an IP address. Nor does the iAqualink webpage show you which MAC address/WIFI SSID combo you are connecting too. Had they put this tiny bit of data on the connection screen, it would have made this WAY easier to diagnose. This is why the iAqualink will often connect just fine to the Wifi SSID (yellow light illuminated), but never get an IP address to communicate out on the public internet with.
Pool automation equipment is the ONE THING on a property that is most likely to be far away from the main router and needs an excellent antenna, transmit/receive power, and quality software to work right. Shame on you Jandy for this nonsense... There are plenty of extremely smart hardware and software engineers in the San Diego metro area that you could have hired to help make this thing more robust (HP, Qualcomm, Teradata). This product obviously was not well tested in a real-world scenario ... there are plenty of homes with pools in the SD metro area you could have reached out to for user acceptance testing.
Anyhow, directions below are for AT&T Internet with the Pace 5268 gateway (I have it with AT&T Fiber, but same process if you use that gateway with DSL) and Eero Pro - 1 main access point and 2 beacons.
If you have cable internet, it will all depend if your cable modem is in bridge mode or router mode. Some IT savvy folks have bought their own cable modem and set it in bridge mode to do more advanced stuff - if you do this, Eero may not work with iAqualink due to the MAC address/IP address I mention above. You need the router/modem/gateway to act as DHCP server, and the Eero system to focus only on distributing a Wifi signal (to get over this iAqualink software deficiency).
And FYI - if you are looking in the Eero app, the iAqualink is using a chip called "Microchip Technology Inc." - you may see others listed for Apple, Hon Hai Precision (Sony TVs), Coulomb Technologies (Chargepoint charger), etc.
What I did:
1. Factory reset the AT&T Pace gateway to get it to default settings
2. Connected my PC via ethernet to the AT&T Pace gateway
3. Disabled ALL Wifi on the AT&T gateway, so it is not needlessly spewing Wifi that nothing is going to connect it. You have to click a small "Advanced Settings" link on the WIFI settings page to get to this. Be sure to turn off ALL Wifi (2.4g, 5.8g, and also the guest network).
4. Factory reset the Eero access point.
5. Connect the Eero access point to the AT&T gateway via ethernet. Run through normal setup for your Wifi network name/password you want Eero to transmit. Do not set up the beacons yet.
6. AFTER your Wifi is set up, go into the Eero app and change the Eero to "Bridge" mode (under DHCP & NAT). Eero will reboot.
7. Go to iAqualink box outside, toggle the wired/wifi switch inside to reset the wifi on it
8. Connect your phone/tablet/PC to the iAqualink SSID
9. Popup screen should list all the networks it can see - pick the new SSID you just set up on Eero.
10. Close up the iAqualink box - you're done there.
11. Connect your phone/tablet/PC back to your new Wifi network
12. iAqualink should now connect to your new Wifi (power cycle Jandy if not)
13. Set up your Eero beacons as usual using the Eero app
14. Crack open a beer and go float in the pool, because you deserve it
Setting up Bridge mode means you don't get all the extra features like pausing internet for the kids or Eero secure. But for me, being able to turn the hot tub on remotely while coming home from skiing is way more important. YMMV.
Once you get the iAqualink to connect to your Wifi, it will roam to the beacon with a stronger signal. You can then move the beacons around the house to get a strong enough signal out to the iAqualink - such if it is out behind a detached garage or back of the yard.
The gory story:
The Eero system has multiple MAC addresses within its overall system. One for each ethernet port, plus one for each of the 3 wifi controllers (2 are used for actual user SSID connectivity and one that is a hidden SSID for backhaul between Eero beacons and gateways). The software in the iAqualink 2.0 control box is poorly written, and too brittle to be able to differentiate between multiple SSIDs on a wireless network when issuing a DHCP request to get an IP address. Nor does the iAqualink webpage show you which MAC address/WIFI SSID combo you are connecting too. Had they put this tiny bit of data on the connection screen, it would have made this WAY easier to diagnose. This is why the iAqualink will often connect just fine to the Wifi SSID (yellow light illuminated), but never get an IP address to communicate out on the public internet with.
Pool automation equipment is the ONE THING on a property that is most likely to be far away from the main router and needs an excellent antenna, transmit/receive power, and quality software to work right. Shame on you Jandy for this nonsense... There are plenty of extremely smart hardware and software engineers in the San Diego metro area that you could have hired to help make this thing more robust (HP, Qualcomm, Teradata). This product obviously was not well tested in a real-world scenario ... there are plenty of homes with pools in the SD metro area you could have reached out to for user acceptance testing.
Anyhow, directions below are for AT&T Internet with the Pace 5268 gateway (I have it with AT&T Fiber, but same process if you use that gateway with DSL) and Eero Pro - 1 main access point and 2 beacons.
If you have cable internet, it will all depend if your cable modem is in bridge mode or router mode. Some IT savvy folks have bought their own cable modem and set it in bridge mode to do more advanced stuff - if you do this, Eero may not work with iAqualink due to the MAC address/IP address I mention above. You need the router/modem/gateway to act as DHCP server, and the Eero system to focus only on distributing a Wifi signal (to get over this iAqualink software deficiency).
And FYI - if you are looking in the Eero app, the iAqualink is using a chip called "Microchip Technology Inc." - you may see others listed for Apple, Hon Hai Precision (Sony TVs), Coulomb Technologies (Chargepoint charger), etc.
What I did:
1. Factory reset the AT&T Pace gateway to get it to default settings
2. Connected my PC via ethernet to the AT&T Pace gateway
3. Disabled ALL Wifi on the AT&T gateway, so it is not needlessly spewing Wifi that nothing is going to connect it. You have to click a small "Advanced Settings" link on the WIFI settings page to get to this. Be sure to turn off ALL Wifi (2.4g, 5.8g, and also the guest network).
4. Factory reset the Eero access point.
5. Connect the Eero access point to the AT&T gateway via ethernet. Run through normal setup for your Wifi network name/password you want Eero to transmit. Do not set up the beacons yet.
6. AFTER your Wifi is set up, go into the Eero app and change the Eero to "Bridge" mode (under DHCP & NAT). Eero will reboot.
7. Go to iAqualink box outside, toggle the wired/wifi switch inside to reset the wifi on it
8. Connect your phone/tablet/PC to the iAqualink SSID
9. Popup screen should list all the networks it can see - pick the new SSID you just set up on Eero.
10. Close up the iAqualink box - you're done there.
11. Connect your phone/tablet/PC back to your new Wifi network
12. iAqualink should now connect to your new Wifi (power cycle Jandy if not)
13. Set up your Eero beacons as usual using the Eero app
14. Crack open a beer and go float in the pool, because you deserve it
Setting up Bridge mode means you don't get all the extra features like pausing internet for the kids or Eero secure. But for me, being able to turn the hot tub on remotely while coming home from skiing is way more important. YMMV.
Once you get the iAqualink to connect to your Wifi, it will roam to the beacon with a stronger signal. You can then move the beacons around the house to get a strong enough signal out to the iAqualink - such if it is out behind a detached garage or back of the yard.
Wolfepack88
Gold Supporter
- Jun 21, 2020
- 757
- Pool Size
- 17690
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Can you set a dedicated IP address in your Eero for the Aqualink? Or at this point would that be like the Manhattan Project?
Hope this helps someone:
Here's how I solved
Most advice I saw said to open the iAqualink and toggle the LAN/WiFi to reset and start again.
I could see it was connecting to my router (Eero mesh) it just wasn't "online" per iAqualink web or app. So I knew it was connecting fine to my router.
I followed the line from the iAqualink down to the pump. Opened the panel on pump, and there are 4-6 wires. I unplugged the red wire (you'll need small flathead), waited 10 seconds, connected it back and problem solved. Basically I was looking to "reboot" the iAqualink. I tried toggling the breaker first but it must hold some power somewhere because the iAqualink never lost power that way.
Here's how I solved
Most advice I saw said to open the iAqualink and toggle the LAN/WiFi to reset and start again.
I could see it was connecting to my router (Eero mesh) it just wasn't "online" per iAqualink web or app. So I knew it was connecting fine to my router.
I followed the line from the iAqualink down to the pump. Opened the panel on pump, and there are 4-6 wires. I unplugged the red wire (you'll need small flathead), waited 10 seconds, connected it back and problem solved. Basically I was looking to "reboot" the iAqualink. I tried toggling the breaker first but it must hold some power somewhere because the iAqualink never lost power that way.
Extra step solved it for me: Go to your router Admin page and 'forget' the iAqualink device. You will probably need to wait for it to be not connected, or go and manually disconnect it via the wifi switch inside the iAqualink unit. I also set up a reserved IP for the iAqualink. (not sure if needed) Then, be sure the switch is set back to wifi (if you switched it to wired) and wait for it to reconnect or follow the steps to reconnect it to your wifi manually. I had followed all the steps listed in many, many posts and this is the only thing that worked for me. Big thanks to everyone who has posted their solutions, they were a huge help!