I thought I was doing Ok until ...

[ghall6292]

I wouldn't be having these issues if it weren't for the pool store.

Although it would probably be endless, a survey of TFP members would probably reveal thousands of members in your "club," me included.

 

[cledee]

So, for everyone that uses liquid chlorine ... can you give me an idea of exactly how and when you add it? Show me your "regimen" so to speak?

Yesterday, I tested all. Used pool math, and it said I need 1.4 gallons of liquid. I added that, left the pump run a few hours and retested ... my FC was at about 15 (so a bit high for my cya/FC ratio, but i was ok with that because I constantly have kids and people in and out of the pool).

This morning, I went out and tested again, just for fun ... my pump hasn't run all night (its on a timer) and I got a FC of 11.5. I plan on testing again after the pump kicks on and is running for a little while.

Edited to add ... does adding liquid equate to "shocking"? I'm totally new to liquid ... I had a pool growing up and helped my parents take care of it somewhat, but we NEVER got this technical so it's like a foreign language to me with liquid. We did the typical powder shock every two weeks, puck in the floater, and that was all.

You add the liquid chlorine when you can. Morning, afternoon, night, it doesn't matter. I test my chlorine at around 7pm Monday through Friday and then I add the chlorine by the return jet on the deep end. On the Saturday and Sunday, I test in the morning and add the chlorine. My CYA is 40 so I add chlorine whenever I get down to 4-5 to get it back to 7-8. So I never let it get down to the minimum, but I also don't add so much that I'm going to waste chlorine. The more chlorine in your pool the bigger the drop.

 

[DorsalSpine]

Running through 4 points FC in a 24 hour period for this time of the year with the cover off would not be unusual for my pool. It's a little on the high side but if the water looked right I'd just log it and motor on. I might do an OCLT just to make sure if the water wasn't crystal clear.

For instance, we had a lot of rain and the water level was getting low so I pumped the water off the pool cover into the pool. I got busy on other things and didn't check it for a couple of days. As soon as I opened it I knew I had a problem. The water was hazy. I could see to the bottom but it wasn't crystal clear. My FC was zero and the PH was lower than it should be. We must have had acidic rain and I washed all the dirt off the cover into the pool when I transferred the water. I also noticed my filter pressure was too high.

I ended up raising the FC to SLAM levels, raising the PH and replacing the DE in the filter. Two days later I'm back to crystal clear water. Long story short, it doesn't take long for things to go south if you don't keep an eye on it. Mine was a self inflicted injury since I know better than to add a lot of new water and not check the pool afterwards.

 

[jennikz]

I never cover, so ... good. I'm glad that's "normal" with all things considered. I'll power on the rest of the summer and see what happens come spring!

THANK YOU ALL for all the help!!

 

[DorsalSpine]

With our short pool season I liked having a solar cover in the past. It helped keep some of the dirt out and stabilized the pool temp. We switched to an auto cover once the winter safety cover needed replaced. It's a dark grey so I still get some solar gain and my wife can open the pool easily. It's also a luxury and can be a PITA once in a while.

 

[poolnovice1]

I am in central PA too! I'm really just praying that my taylor kit is "too old" and the pool store was WAYYY off (they said my cya was 107 -- taylor said about 80).

I think you're right on evaporation ... so I guess that may not be helping. Perhaps I should have the kids do a major splash battle instead!!!!

I've been comparing pool store results (Leslie's) with my own. Their CYA results are one of the few things that consistently match my own testing results.

Have you tried a standard CYA sample? You can use those to see whether you are measuring CYA correctly. When I first started, I was reading my CYA too low. I was looking for the black dot to completely disappear, but you just need to glance at it. If you look directly into it and wait until the black dot completely disappears, you'll probably read too low.

 

[jennikz]

Well, finally tested with my new kit and .... ugh. Still disappointed!

Here's the results from today's test:

FC 8
CC 0 (is that possible?)
PH 7.7
TA 150
CH 250
CYA 100 (eeeek!!! still mad at myself)

So, I guess I will need to lower the TA a bit, up to CH and just deal with the cya as of now! I was really hoping my old taylor kit and the store were wrong, but I guess not... and I'd be willing to bet that the cya is even higher than 100.

 

[jennikz]

I've been comparing pool store results (Leslie's) with my own. Their CYA results are one of the few things that consistently match my own testing results.

Have you tried a standard CYA sample? You can use those to see whether you are measuring CYA correctly. When I first started, I was reading my CYA too low. I was looking for the black dot to completely disappear, but you just need to glance at it. If you look directly into it and wait until the black dot completely disappears, you'll probably read too low.

What is a standard cya sample? I'm certain mine is high. way high.... like over 100 high.

 

[mknauss]

Drain down half way and refill. That is as much as you can safely drain at once. Circulate and test again.

 

[jennikz]

Drain down half way and refill. That is as much as you can safely drain at once. Circulate and test again.

Id' love to, but that's not going to happen for a few days at least! I'm just sick in my stomach over it ... truly. I knew better!

I don't suppose working on the TA and CH will do anything for the cya?

 

[Kellyp]

Your CYA will eventually degrade, keep your chlorine high to compensate, ( just use the chart) and you will hopefully make it through summer okay. You can lower ta by adding muriatic acid to bring ph down to 7.2, then aerate till back to 7.8, then repeat that routine till ta is where you want it. You should be okay if you dont want to drain any now.

 

[chiefwej]

With high CYA, mix pool water with tap water 50/50 then test. Multiply your test results by two. Tap water has no CYA, so by mixing 50/50 you are getting the test results within the test parameter, then x2 to correct the number.
Yes, 0 CC is not only possible, it the desired result. CC (combined chlorine) is a sign that something in your pool water (often algae) is consuming your FC (free chlorine).

 

[poolnovice1]

What is a standard cya sample? I'm certain mine is high. way high.... like over 100 high.

Standard Solutions

tftestkits.net

"Did you ever want to have the answers to the test? Now, you do! Standard Solutions are basically pool water with a set level. Standard solutions provide an excellent way to test your reagent and/or your testing methods. You simply use the Standard solution like it is pool water and perform the test."

 

[DorsalSpine]

You should do the diluted test as mentioned above. It's best to manage your expectations up front. In my case, I had to drain and refill multiple times since my CYA was over 200. I remember how disappointed I was to do a drain/refill and still have CYA over 100 on the first go around.

 

[jennikz]

With high CYA, mix pool water with tap water 50/50 then test. Multiply your test results by two. Tap water has no CYA, so by mixing 50/50 you are getting the test results within the test parameter, then x2 to correct the number.
Yes, 0 CC is not only possible, it the desired result. CC (combined chlorine) is a sign that something in your pool water (often algae) is consuming your FC (free chlorine).

I have well water. Does that matter?

 

[jennikz]

Can I use this pool store stuff to lower the ph? And raise the calcium? I mean, I already have it.
Also, why am I to lower the ph? Poolmath says it’s in range. What do I use to lower alkalinity?

 

[mknauss]

You need to drain half of your pool volume first.

You do not need to lower your pH. And your pool does not need calcium at all as it is vinyl.

 

[jennikz]

You need to drain half of your pool volume first.

You do not need to lower your pH. And your pool does not need calcium at all as it is vinyl.

I know I need to drain. But that won’t happen til at least Monday and it’s definitely not going to be half at a time as I have no way to fill it back up aside from my well and I cannot risk burning up the well pump. I’ll have to do small amounts at a time until I get it down, or hope it comes down on its own somehow …
I guess til then, I’ll just have to maintain the chlorine at a higher level.

 

[trivetman]

Jen - if your water supply is limited….I would get a handle on how high your cya really is before draining. Do the diluted cya test per chiefwej a few posts back. I think using well water as the other 50% will work but you can pick up a bottle of distilled water from the drug store to be sure.

if the diluted test shows up as 100, that means your full strength cya is at least 200 and you have a lot of draining to do. If the diluted test shows as 50, that means your full strength is 100. Thats real high for sure but as long as you keep the FC up, its maybe not completely unmanageable and considering you have a water supply issue its an option.

if you do need to drain you could also consider bringing in a water truck for half the pool volume or so. If the cya is 200+, draining only small bits at a time will take many times of doing so to get the cya down enough

 

[chiefwej]

I have well water. Does that matter?

No, neither well water, nor municipal tap water will have any CYA.