I think I have a problem with RJ45+

Trk3263

Well-known member
Dec 14, 2019
65
Upstate of SC
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45
I recently installed an RJ45+ it was running initially and I could see the haze like it was generating chlorine. However it was showing my instant Salt reading was only around 2600 and my average is still showing at 2500. The water was cold and around 57 so I thought it could have been something with the water temp because I began to get Low Temp on the screen and the generating light now just flickers.
We are now having warmer weather and my pool was at 66.5 (manual thermometer +/- 2) today. I had the SWCG turned off due to the lower temps and now with the high temps I thought I would test it again. Unfortunately, after turning it is initially says it is generating at the 50% setting and then I get Low Temp on the screen and the light beside generating just flickers again. I also have not got the hazy water coming from the cell.
I have read about possibly needing to calibrate and I have search high and low on how to do so with no luck. I attempted to contact both CIrcupool and DiscountSaltpool.com but both were closed by the time I got home for work and don't open until Monday. This is going to bug me all weekend at the temps are now in the 80s.
Any help or suggestions would be great. I am trying to figure out a way to reset the console. The power already disconnects with my timer so not sure how else to reset it. Sorry I am rambling just frustrated.
 

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RJ+ Features
By any chance have a tried a couple of the tips noted on this page? Go to the R45+ notes:

Thank you I didn't come across this page since doing research on which unit to buy.

I have toggled it on/off several times, I have not tried turning off the circuit breaker because I believe when the timer turns off there is no longer power so that would be the same as turning off the circuit breaker. I will try the breaker. Reading below I will also press and hold the power button when the breaker is off, this clears the cmos on a computer so maybe it will clear any memory in the controller??

  • The RJ series stops generating when water temperature is below 60 degrees. A member reports that the got various TEMP messages during the winter and when the water temperature got into the 70s the cell did not automatically begin generating. He had to press the On/Off toggle button to turn the CircuPool SWG to off and back on to get it reset and generating chlorine. We recommend turning the SWG off when water temperature drops below 60F during the winter.[5]
  • If the control unit doesn't clear faults by being switched off turn the circuit breaker Off and On.
I will advise my findings if any of these things work. Please keep the ideas coming in the meantime.
 
By any chance have a tried a couple of the tips noted on this page? Go to the R45+ notes:
No luck. I tried these but still getting the low temp. Pool is at 62 according to the RJ and the manual says it should operate above 60. I guess I have to wait until Monday to talk to a tech.
 
Just FYI my FusionSoft says "LO" when the temp is below 60 but it will still produce down to 50.
Thank you, after the Low Temp comes on the amp and instant salt reading are all showing 0. I also don't see the cloudy water on the output side of the cell I was seeing before.
 
If you have a heater you can put that on to test it. My heater increased the water temp going into the SWG to 62. This was enough to eliminate all SWG errors and messages.
 
If you have a heater you can put that on to test it. My heater increased the water temp going into the SWG to 62. This was enough to eliminate all SWG errors and messages.
No heater but it was in the 80s here yesterday and today so the water temp was up in the mid to high 60s. From one of the other troubleshooting posts it seems maybe these things get stuck in a Low Temp mode. I was hoping resetting the breaker would power it down enough to clear its memory but no luck. Gonna try and run it for a while today now that the water temps are staying above 60 in hope it will figure itself out until I get more info.
 
What's your salt level. I got low salt light when my salt was around 3200 ppm.My salt level on the controller reads about 500 ppm below the salt level with the K-1766 test. Spoke with the Circupool tech and he said they are aware this occurs with their type of sensor. For this reason they set the unit so it won't stop generating until 700 ppm below the min salt level. You will get low salt message but it keeps generating. I raised my salt level to 3400+ and don't get any errors now. My pool is way hotter than yours though. Never below 78. Around 90 now with the solar heat.
 

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What's your salt level. I got low salt light when my salt was around 3200 ppm.My salt level on the controller reads about 500 ppm below the salt level with the K-1766 test. Spoke with the Circupool tech and he said they are aware this occurs with their type of sensor. For this reason they set the unit so it won't stop generating until 700 ppm below the min salt level. You will get low salt message but it keeps generating. I raised my salt level to 3400+ and don't get any errors now. My pool is way hotter than yours though. Never below 78. Around 90 now with the solar heat.

My Salt level with K-1766 test is 3600.
 
To give an update on this issue, Spoke with Tech support at discountsaltpool.com today. They had me move the internal Temp jumper over (as described in the help guide here) in attempt to see if it was the temp sensor and if that fixed it they would send me a new sensor. However, when I did this it popped the internal fuse which makes no sense. I got back on the phone with the tech and we tested to see if the new fuse popped with the cell disconnected and it did not. When we connected the cell it did pop again.
Long story short they are sending me a Bypass cell and then I have to ship the control head and cell back to them for them to diagnose it. I asked if they could just send me a new kit and I would swap it out and ship the current one back the same day. They told me they could not because I had it running for a few weeks (less than a month). Although this irritates me I also understand sticking to their policies, I just want a working system as soon a possible.
I also reminded them my kit came without O-rings so this has been a pain from day one. The tech told me the manufacturer had sent several without O-rings but that has been fixed.
No the Waiting game, oh and I have to find a box and good padding to send it all back because I through out the original when everything seemed good to go but the water temp was low so I wasn't running it!
 
To give an update on this issue, Spoke with Tech support at discountsaltpool.com today. They had me move the internal Temp jumper over (as described in the help guide here) in attempt to see if it was the temp sensor and if that fixed it they would send me a new sensor. However, when I did this it popped the internal fuse which makes no sense. I got back on the phone with the tech and we tested to see if the new fuse popped with the cell disconnected and it did not. When we connected the cell it did pop again.
Long story short they are sending me a Bypass cell and then I have to ship the control head and cell back to them for them to diagnose it. I asked if they could just send me a new kit and I would swap it out and ship the current one back the same day. They told me they could not because I had it running for a few weeks (less than a month). Although this irritates me I also understand sticking to their policies, I just want a working system as soon a possible.
I also reminded them my kit came without O-rings so this has been a pain from day one. The tech told me the manufacturer had sent several without O-rings but that has been fixed.
No the Waiting game, oh and I have to find a box and good padding to send it all back because I through out the original when everything seemed good to go but the water temp was low so I wasn't running it!
Wow! Sorry to hear this. The is the first account of a disappointment with Discount Salt Pool. Seems to me a very reasonable alternative would be to send you a new unit, then test the unit you return to make sure it wasn't damaged by you and take a credit card for repair costs to you up to $X. I hope they know we're watching this closely.

Chris
 
Popping the fuse sure sounds like it's the cell. (The fuse would protect the controller.) I am surprised that they didn't send you a cell first so you didn't have to effectively de-install your system. hmm.. something sounds shorted to me.... Good luck. I'm watching this too as I am really close to buying....
 
Don't get me wrong I wouldn't say I am disappointed. I think in the long run they are doing the right thing. I just wish they would cut out some steps so I can get up and running faster. Overall they were quick to help with give some things to try on my own first and then send it in for testing. Many companies would just say send it in. They also are helping me out by sending me a bypass so I can keep my filter in service during this HIGH POLLEN time of year.
On the flip side I tried to find some Liquid Chlorine today and the lady at Walmart told me someone came in and bought 70 bottles. She thinks a load should come tonight on the truck so hoping to grab some in the morning. My CL is down to 2 so I had to do the unthinkable and put a tablet in tonight.
 
Don't get me wrong I wouldn't say I am disappointed. I think in the long run they are doing the right thing. I just wish they would cut out some steps so I can get up and running faster. Overall they were quick to help with give some things to try on my own first and then send it in for testing. Many companies would just say send it in. They also are helping me out by sending me a bypass so I can keep my filter in service during this HIGH POLLEN time of year.
On the flip side I tried to find some Liquid Chlorine today and the lady at Walmart told me someone came in and bought 70 bottles. She thinks a load should come tonight on the truck so hoping to grab some in the morning. My CL is down to 2 so I had to do the unthinkable and put a tablet in tonight.
Walmart had six gallons left tonight. I suspect that if things don't turn around soon that there will be none. I bought three... I can probably make it a month on what I have...
 
Yes, the COVID-19 is making all of the bleach disappear and I'm afraid it won't be readily available for some time...so I pulled the trigger Monday night for an RJ-60+. Hopefully, no more need for bleach! And runs to the store.

I, also, am watching this thread for the outcome.
 
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And one gallon of pool chlorine properly diluted could probably disinfect an entire commercial building for a month. The 10% stuff at Walmart would be recommended to be diluted down to 1:80 parts of water per current US CDC guidelines, making potentially up to 80 gallons of disinfectant. This crazy stuff just proves how absolutely dumb people are in the US and how bad our educational system is. I mix my spray bottles a bit stronger, but even then I get over 10 gallons in my spray bottle out of a gallon of Wally. The HASA stuff from the pool stores would make 104 gallons...

Just think how much bleach will end up going to waste out of this.
 
Bypass and shipping label should deliver Friday. Hoping the turn around time is fast.
I was able to find some bleach at Walmart. The normal Walmart we go to had someone come in and buy 70 gallons and cleaned them out. The other one nearby was well stocked. I would image most people are to stupid to realize it is just bleach so I would bet it was a pool owner stocking up for the summer just in case.
 
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