I like my liquidator, it makes BBB super easy.

I didn't have many options... My suction side is just is in the manifold right before the pump. My feed is after the filter. I removed the check valves and now I can max out my flow. After a quick 24hr test, I was able to raise my FCL to above 12ppm. (It sucked up a lot of bleach!)

I would recommend that you setup per the instructions then after some testing, make adjustments as needed.
 
kmb...drill your holes as sabot recommended.skimmer line before the pump( close to the pump )and return line after the pump (close to the pump) don't remove the check valves if your liquidator is below the pool level.
Good Luck
Ric W.
 
The pressure difference will be highest, and thus give the highest flow rates, if the two connections are both as close to the pump as is practical. Several inches of pipe either way won't make any noticeable difference but being on the far side of the filter will be detectably, but not seriously, worse than between the pump and the filter.
 
Sorry to keep going on with this, but I want to be perfectly clear before I drill. I want to drill as close to the pump as possible on both sides, suction and return? Is everyone saying to drill in the pipe going from the pump to the filter or right after the filter going to the pool? If so, I have flex pvc going from the pump to the filter, is it ok to put the tubing in that or would hard pvc be better? I had a rough weekend, sorry I'm so slow today.

Thanks
 
On mine...

Suction is before the pump
Feed side is after the filter

I don't have a heater but I do have a solar which is after the filter and Liquidator. Does not impact flow.

Refer to the manual and use the setup which is closest to yours.
 
Hi
I attached a picture from the Haas manual, which shows what they recommend for the liquidator setup.

It shows the output right before the pump, and input between the filter and heater.

But, the water pressure will be the lowest right before the pump, and the highest right after the pump. That's why Jason recommended hooking it up like this, to get the max flow.

If you connect it as Haas shows, there is some pressure drop between the pump and the filter, which will reduce the max output you can get.

It depends on how much output you need.

Randy
 

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kmb... I didn't spot a answer for the flex hose question. I also have flex hose and I was very uncomfortable about drilling into it and using that jet clamp. I replaced the flex with solid at the spots I needed to drill. I might be wrong but I felt I might not get a good seal with the flex or possible crush the flex.
 

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Consider me another Liquidator convert. I purchased this late last summer, and figured I'd wait until this spring to install it. Had I known it would be so easy I would have done this much earlier. It took me less than an hour start to finish. No special tools needed, just a drill with a 3/8" bit and a flat head screwdriver. I am really, really excited to not have to fuss with chlorine bottles every single day all summer long!
 
Flow problems

JasonLion said:
The pressure difference will be highest, and thus give the highest flow rates, if the two connections are both as close to the pump as is practical. Several inches of pipe either way won't make any noticeable difference but being on the far side of the filter will be detectably, but not seriously, worse than between the pump and the filter.

My Liquidator has been nothing but problems....hopefullly with some advice I can get it working well.

My pool: 27000 gal above ground, sand filter, powerflo matrix 1.5hp pump. Liquidator is below pool water level. The pump and filter are only 4-5' from the skimmer and return. No heater, no obstructions. The Liquidator is installed with the suction side line right before the elbow which turns into the pump intake. The Pressure side line is installed about 2' from the filter output.

I can't get enough vacuum on the suction side to overcome the check valve. I have removed the check valves, so I must cut flow completely whenever the pump is off to prevent overflow.

With the check valve removed I get enough suction to move to flow meter to where the center of the little ball floats between .75 and 1.5, and it varies within that range. This is not enough to chlorinate my pool, even running 24 hrs on high speed. (Forget the low speed, I get ZERO flow at low speed).

The flow meter will only move higher if there is a suction side obstruction, such as if the skimmer basket is full of leaves, or if I partially close a valve in the 1.5" skimmer line between the liquidator tubing and the skimmer to restrict water flow. My filter pressure is 12-18, depending on circumstances. (12 being just backwashed, 18 being with DE added to clarify pool)Changes in filter pressure do not seem to effect liquidator flow.

It seems you are suggesting that I relocate the pressure side line to between the pump and filter......I just don't understand why the "pressure differential" would make any difference, since the liquidator tank is not pressurized, and the float valve stops the pressure side line when the tank is full anyway, aren't the two flows (in and out of the liquidator) independent? My pressure side works just fine, the liquidator tank stays filled. The problem is no vacuum on the suction side.

Any help would be appreciated...and don't be afraid to get technical.....I majored in Chemical Engineering, but it was 25 years ago so my Fluid Dynamics is more than a biit rusty!
 
Re: Flow problems

Miranda said:
It seems you are suggesting that I relocate the pressure side line to between the pump and filter......I just don't understand why the "pressure differential" would make any difference, since the liquidator tank is not pressurized, and the float valve stops the pressure side line when the tank is full anyway, aren't the two flows (in and out of the liquidator) independent? My pressure side works just fine, the liquidator tank stays filled. The problem is no vacuum on the suction side.

I would also like someone to attempt to explain why the differential would matter. As Miranda said, it's not a pressurized system. As I see it, the suction side (before the pump) drives everything. The stronger the draw, the faster the system will chlorinate. That's why the pressure indicator is on that side. I don't think it matters at all where you put the return line- that just works as much as demanded by the amount of liquid leaving the main tank.

I noticed the same thing on my pool last night. I finally had enough water in my pool to open the skimmer inlet, and when I opened that, my pressure went from 3 down to 1. So now I'm wondering if that will be enough to keep my chlorine levels where I want them this summer.
 
Miranda,

Yes the first thing you should do is relocate the pressure line to right after the pump output. when I first hooked mine up I had a similar issue and called HASA tech support (661-259-5848) and that was their first suggestion. Increasing the amount going into the Liquidator will also increase the amount going out. I was able to solve my problem simply by removing the check valves but I can see that in your situation that might not be possible. Do you have a picture of your set up that you can post? Having the suction side too close to an elbow might affect the suction somewhat but I am not sure.
 
The Liquidator regulates the water level in it's tank. It won't let incoming water come in too quickly and flood the tank and it won't get outgoing water leave too quickly and drain the tank. Because of that it is limited by whichever one, incoming or outgoing, is running slowest. If you aren't getting much water in then it closes the suction side (tube to before the pump) to prevent the tank from draining. If you aren't getting much out it closes the intake (tube to after the pump) to prevent the tank from flooding. Because of all that you get the highest possible flow when there is the largest pressure difference and thus the highest possible flow on each side.
 
I did a test... I installed my Liquidator as shown in the manual. My max flow rate was about 3.5 (on the flow tube).

First test: I removed both check valves. Max flow rate went to the max level of the flow tube. (5)

Second test: I reinstalled the check valve on the pressure side (between the Liquidator and the filter). The max flow rate remained at 5. So this is how my Liquidator is currently setup.

I am still searching for a better check valve but have yet found one.

I did install two more ball valves tho. On the pressure side, one went on the line between the Filter and the check valve and on the suction side one went on the line between the flow tube and the pump. This allows me to isolate pressure/suction side for maintenance or to bypass the Liquidator.
 
So really, the answer to low flow is to remove the check valve on the suction side (before the pump) rather than to drill the hole closer to the pump on the pressure side. And as I read it, no one has actually tested whether drilling a new hole closer to the pump actually works...

The flow effect is not pressure side driven. The drop in pressure happens the second I open my skimmer inlet- so it's clearly cause by the drop in pressure in front of the pump that results from increasing the amount of water available to the pump.
 
Patapsco Mike said:
The flow effect is not pressure side driven. The drop in pressure happens the second I open my skimmer inlet- so it's clearly cause by the drop in pressure in front of the pump that results from increasing the amount of water available to the pump.

Moving the intake closer to the pump can't hurt and it might help, it all depends on details of your plumbing. There are situations where the Liquidator can be intake limited. Some systems, those with relatively high suction/low filter pressure, will be improved. Others, with relatively low suction/high filter pressure, will not be improved. The ratio can change over time as the filter gets dirty or the skimmer get blocked, so it may only matter part of the time. Sometimes moving the intake closer to the pump will make a difference in other situations it won't make any difference.

Removing the check valve is a better solution if your tank is above the pool level, but can't be done if your tank is below pool level.
 
Due to limited space on my plumbing on the suction side, my hole is right before the pump. I can't get any closer then that. On the pressure side, my hole is within 12" from the filter. I have a fixed 2hp pump with 2" plumbing.

I am not going to do test holes to test out which is the best. ;)
 

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