I like my liquidator, it makes BBB super easy.

kmb997

Well-known member
Jun 13, 2007
111
New Orleans
This was asked a few pages back, but only one responded. It may still be early in the season, but I was wondering what everyone has the flow rate set to and how long the pumps are running? I'm thinking of getting a 2 speed pump. How would running the pump, on low, 24/7 affect chlorine distribution? I guess I would have to dial it down to it's lowest setting, depending on pool usage? Most people at TFP say to leave the pumps running for about an hour after adding chemicals. I guess it's okay to turn the pump off with the Liquidator?

Thanks
 

JCJR

LifeTime Supporter
May 4, 2007
267
Miami
kmb997 said:
This was asked a few pages back, but only one responded. It may still be early in the season, but I was wondering what everyone has the flow rate set to and how long the pumps are running? I'm thinking of getting a 2 speed pump. How would running the pump, on low, 24/7 affect chlorine distribution? I guess I would have to dial it down to it's lowest setting, depending on pool usage? Most people at TFP say to leave the pumps running for about an hour after adding chemicals. I guess it's okay to turn the pump off with the Liquidator?

Thanks
I don't know if I am the one who answered this but I probably have more insight now that I have had My Liquidator for over 3 months. I have a 2 sp pump 10hr run time on low. I have it dailed right on the 1. I think my pump pushes 48 gls a minute ( I may be wrong). I did have to remove the check valves because water would not flow at that low speed.

I read that one of the down sides of the Liquidator is that as the CL level gets lower, you have to increase the CL flow. I get around this by setting my flow control a little high. When the Liquidator is full of CL (about 3gals my case, I do not add the full 4 gal because I use 2.5 gal CL jugs to fill up) my CL level is around 5ppm and it starts coming down when CL is low, about .5gal left in Liquidator. . At that point my CL is around 2-3 ppm which is still good for my CYA level. I This can take about 2 weeks. SO it is not a constant 4 ppm, more like a curve. As long as I stay in my 3-5 ppm range my pool is fine.

I do check or adjust my flow control temporarily high or off depending on bather load, if pump is on high ( kind of like a boost on a SWG). I still check my CL levels daily or every other day (due to PH rise) and I rarely have to adjust the Liquidator.

To answer your last question, running your pumps after adding Chemicals is due to adding large amounts at a time and allowing for proper circulation. With the Liquidator you are adding small amounts constantly for your entire pump cycle and the water basically recycled a full turnover.
 

keithw

Well-known member
Mar 30, 2007
305
Virginia Beach
I've had my Liquidator for an entire season and have found my experience and methodology to be very similar to JCJR. I have an 8K fiberglass pool, single speed pump. I run it six hours during season. I have the flow set between 1&2. My CL also curves from higher when the Liquidator is full to lower when it empties and mine takes about two weeks as well. For shocking, I keep a jug of bleach handy and if we have heavy bather load I just pop a cup or two into the pool afterwards. In regards to testing, I was fairly religious about it when I first installed the Liquidator. Once I got it dialed in, the levels were always within the ranges that I wanted and the pool looked great. By the end of the season I was testing much more infrequently but the results were still spot on when I did test them. It is a great product IMO if your have converted over to bleach or liquid Chlorine for your CL source.

In regards to your question about running the pump 24/7, I can't see why you would want to do that. I haven't seen any instances where it would be necessary and it would seem to be a waste of electricity. I have mine on a timer and it runs for 2 hour intervals, three times a day.
 

kmb997

Well-known member
Jun 13, 2007
111
New Orleans
Is there anyone who has the 8 gallon version? Do you think that one would last around a month before refilling? I guess pool and spa warehouse is the only place that sells the Liquidator?

Keithw and JCJR, thanks for the info.
 

JCJR

LifeTime Supporter
May 4, 2007
267
Miami
I didn't go for the 8 gal version because the Liquidator in my case sits outside in the sun. I did build a cover for it but I was afraid of the CL losing its strength. I will find out how many times I will need to fill er' up once I hit the Summer months and my solar cover comes off.

I can't wait for Dave to post his experience. I guess you do not have to fill it up with 8 gals during the very hot spells.
 

DLSDO

LifeTime Supporter
Sep 27, 2007
330
Midwest
I thought about that but it didn't cost me much more for the 8G version, I had the room and I don't have to fill it all the way up....so I figured "why not..what the heck!"

Plus I think I am the only poster on this site that has the 8G version so I can be the "guinea pig".

I will post my experience when I get it up and running.
 

Aquaman95

Well-known member
Feb 20, 2008
249
It's a great concept. I remember when these first came out they were introduced for the commercial market several years ago....the original company was "enviro pure concepts" - you can see the name on the second set of pics in this thread. Needless to say they were too small and didn't catch on. Hasa bought them a few years ago and I'm glad to see they're finally catching on. BTW, if you need bleach in the CA/AZ area, HASA makes very pure bleach (no affiliation).

Two comments - original poster - your unit appears to be installed with clear soft vinyl tubing. Keep a close eye on this as it's not UV resistant and usually doesn't do so well with chlorine either. UV will turn it yellow and dry it out and chlorine will make it "gummy".

Second poster - yours appears to be installed with "clear/natural" LDPE tubing. This is chlorine resistant but not UV resistant.

The good news is both are easy fixes if they become problems, just get some black LDPE tubing in the right size from the hardware store and it will be chlorine resistant and UV resistant.
 

algaeh8er

Well-known member
Jun 11, 2007
92
NorCal
I'm seriously considering purchasing a Liquidator. It seems like a more hassle-free way to keep the pool sanitized. How difficult is it to install and how long did it take?
 

austinnichols101

LifeTime Supporter
Feb 9, 2008
38
Miami, FL
algaeh8er said:
I'm seriously considering purchasing a Liquidator. It seems like a more hassle-free way to keep the pool sanitized. How difficult is it to install and how long did it take?
It's quite easy to install. You're going to drill a hole in the PVC just before your pump and another hole in the return after your filter. For both of these holes I looked for an area of pipe that would be easy to replace if for some reason I decided to uninstall later. Then you install a fitting into each hole that is held in place with a metal band and tightened with a screwdriver. Then you cut a few pieces of plastic tubing (supplied with the liquidator) to connect it to the two fitting you installed. In-line with the tubing are a flow meter, a cutoff valve and a backflow preventer (all supplied with the Liquidator). There are also a couple of float valves that are screwed into the side of the liquidator.

You'll probably want to pick up some zip-ties to make everything look nice.

Here's a link to the user's manual which details the whole process.

It took me about 20 minutes to get the rough installation done with everything working. Then I took another 10-15 minutes on final adjustments to the hose lengths and installing the zip-ties.
 

algaeh8er

Well-known member
Jun 11, 2007
92
NorCal
That doesn't look too hard, though I must admit that the thought of drilling into the pipes is a bit scary. I'd be really afraid that I'd mess it up. Maybe I could talk my husband into installing it. ;)
 

Sabot

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 2, 2007
343
Austin, TX
I have been using The Liquidator since the beginning of this year and I really like it. Simple to install and simple to operate. I am thinking of adding the Ph Adjuster by Hasa. My goal is to automate as much as possible and maintain as stable pool chemistry as possible.
 

DLSDO

LifeTime Supporter
Sep 27, 2007
330
Midwest
Just installed the 8G version and opened up the pool yesterday. I was a little nervous drilling the holes in the PVC but the whole process was actually simple. Install time= 10 minutes. I will post more in the next few months.
 

Sabot

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 2, 2007
343
Austin, TX
Just to share some info...

I took the above advice to replace my vinyl tubing with Tygon® UV Resistant Tubing 3/8" I.D. I am not sure if I found the best deal but I have delt with this company in the past and so far I am happy. The tubing runs about $1.65 per ft so it's not cheap. I have had my unit in use for about three months and the inside of the tubing has clouded and looks a little messy. A few weeks ago, I noticed a reduced amount of CL getting into my pool. The unit has been running great. So this prompted me to troubleshoot. I am also replacing the check valves. On the same site, you will see the similar check valve used. The opening is .25 which would account for the impact on the flow when I removed it. I am going to test out a 3/8" FNPT Polypropylene Check Valve which has an opening of .438.

Tygon Tubing Link:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/varian ... 5Fid=57242

PVC Check Valve
(Dropped the Check Valve, didn't see a real benefit. If needed, just stick with the ones issued by the factory.)
 

Aquaman95

Well-known member
Feb 20, 2008
249
Sabot said:
Just to share some info...

I took the above advice to replace my vinyl tubing with Tygon® UV Resistant Tubing 3/8" I.D. I am not sure if I found the best deal but I have delt with this company in the past and so far I am happy. The tubing runs about $1.65 per ft so it's not cheap. I have had my unit in use for about three months and the inside of the tubing has clouded and looks a little messy. A few weeks ago, I noticed a reduced amount of CL getting into my pool. The unit has been running great. So this prompted me to troubleshoot. I am also replacing the check valves. On the same site, you will see the similar check valve used. The opening is .25 which would account for the impact on the flow when I removed it. I am going to test out a 3/8" FNPT Polypropylene Check Valve which has an opening of .438.

Tygon Tubing Link:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/varian ... 5Fid=57242

PVC Check Valve
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/varian ... 5Fid=22173

3/8" FNPT Polypropylene Check Valve
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/varian ... 5Fid=22232




Good move with the tubing...Tygon is probably overkill but should work well.

The PVC check valve you posted is not a good choice for two reasons - it has BUNA-N and Stainless steel. Neither one of these materials will do well with chlorine.

I can't tell what the seal/spring/duckbill material is on the second one.

You want to look for Hastelloy-C springs with ceramic balls if it is a spring check valve or if it is duckbill Viton or at least EPDM (not ideal but better than BUNA-N) for the duckbill. Double ceramic balls are even better. The seals should be Viton or at least EPDM if you choose a spring checkvalve.
 

Sabot

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 2, 2007
343
Austin, TX
Figured it would be a slight overkill but the good news is that it is only needed down stream of the Liquidator. The PVC check valve is very similar if not the exact one that comes with the Liquidator. I didn't order that one so I can't tell exactly. I am only going to test the flow with the different check valve for I have removed the down stream check valve since I don't really need it (per factory). I have added another ball valve up stream to isolate the Liquidator during maintenance.
 

kmb997

Well-known member
Jun 13, 2007
111
New Orleans
I'm about to install my Liquidator and would like to know where is the best place to drill the holes for the tubing, to get the best flow? Right after the skimmer or closer to the pump, right where the return enters the pool or closer to the exit of the filter? I've read that people who have 2 speed pumps have removed the check valves, because of the low flow, but their Liquidator is above water level. I have an AGP and don't have a place where I can put the Liquidator above water level. Any suggestions?

Thanks