I know my title is a bit confusing but here's what I'm trying to ask. When I run my SWG at 20% my FC drops to 4-5 and stays there, which I understand is on the lower side. If I run it at the next setting, 40% then FC jumps to 6.5-7 which is then a little high. I wish there was a 30% setting but there isn't. Do any of you have a recommendation on how to find that perfect setting so your FC stays right near where you want it? Do I run it all day at 40% and shut it off at night? LOL I never turn my pumps off, by the way. That always stays on. Thanks in advance for any tips.
How to handle SWG settings
- Thread starter ajup2it
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 59,415
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
It appears you have an Intelliflo pump. You can set up schedules on the pump. If you wish to not have the SWCG on for a portion of the day, but still wish to run the pump, use a lower RPM (one not high enough to close the flow switch) for the entire 24 hour period and then use a schedule with a higher RPM (one high enough to close the flow switch) for the number of hours you need to match the chlorine generation you need. The system will always run the schedule with the highest rpm.
A,
Since you never tell us what your CYA is, there is no way for us to tell if your FC is high or low...
There is nothing wrong with running your FC a little high, it is far better than running a little low..
The IC40 was really designed for use with a Pentair automation system where you can adjust the FC in 1% increments.
If you don't want to shut your pump off, then Marty has the perfect solution for you.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Since you never tell us what your CYA is, there is no way for us to tell if your FC is high or low...
There is nothing wrong with running your FC a little high, it is far better than running a little low..
The IC40 was really designed for use with a Pentair automation system where you can adjust the FC in 1% increments.
If you don't want to shut your pump off, then Marty has the perfect solution for you.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Salt cell demand is a dance between seasonal foriegn matter (eg, pollen, leaves), swim load, sun, temperature, and pool chemistry. Because of this, your weekly demand may change a bit. Honestly, your only "dial" is the amount the cell is turned on. For example at 20%, the cell is only energized 20% of the time the pump is running. You are only able to adjust that percentage and the pump's runtime.
I see you have a variable speed pump. That keeps the 24/7 operation costs somewhat in check. However, you probably don't need that much time. Run it enough to keep the pool clean. The equivilent of 30% in 24 hours is 60% in 12 hours. Give that a try and see how things turn out.
I see you have a variable speed pump. That keeps the 24/7 operation costs somewhat in check. However, you probably don't need that much time. Run it enough to keep the pool clean. The equivilent of 30% in 24 hours is 60% in 12 hours. Give that a try and see how things turn out.
@Jimrahbe My CYA is at about 90 presently, FC 7, TA 140, pH 7.5, pool temp 88. I'm working on getting TA down by using muratic acid and aerating. I'm not seeing the 1% increments. I'll take a look to see if that's an option.
@mknauss - I have no idea how to do this or if that really is an option based on my set up. I'll look into it.
@fields_g - So (obviously I'm really new to pools here) I can shut my pump off entirely and it will be ok as long as the water chemistry stays in check? I'm so new to pools and learning this chemistry stuff...Let's pretend I'm a ten year old. How long would you tell a 10 year old to run the pump?
@mknauss - I have no idea how to do this or if that really is an option based on my set up. I'll look into it.
@fields_g - So (obviously I'm really new to pools here) I can shut my pump off entirely and it will be ok as long as the water chemistry stays in check? I'm so new to pools and learning this chemistry stuff...Let's pretend I'm a ten year old. How long would you tell a 10 year old to run the pump?
- May 3, 2014
- 59,415
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Check out Youtube. Use a search engine and put in Intelliflo VS. Lots of hits.
Unless you have an Easytouch or Intellitouch system, you can not adjust your SWCG in 1% increments.
You only need to run your pump long enough to make your chlorine and then skim the surface. So 8 hours run time right now would fit your needs for chlorine.
A,
You will not have 1% increments unless you have a Pentair automation system.. Like an EasyTouch, IntelliTouch, or the new IntelliCenter..
With a CYA of 90 your FC should really be 7 so I would not use 20% output.. See this chart under saltwater... FC/CYA Levels
Thanks,
Jim R.
You will not have 1% increments unless you have a Pentair automation system.. Like an EasyTouch, IntelliTouch, or the new IntelliCenter..
With a CYA of 90 your FC should really be 7 so I would not use 20% output.. See this chart under saltwater... FC/CYA Levels
Thanks,
Jim R.
@mknauss - Thank you.
@Jimrahbe - or to anyone else here too...
SWG FC range is 4-6, with high recommendations of keeping it closer to 6, which means my CYA needs to be 80. The only way I get CYA down is adding fresh water to the pool. So I guess my biggest question right now is what FC target would be best? I figure 4 is low and leaves no room for error and I'll be darned if I get another algae bloom! 6 is high according to the liner manufacturer but seems like someone here said I'd be better off with FC 6 rather than 5 so I get it that everyone has their thoughts on this. I've been working really hard to chase these numbers and sort my pool out these last few weeks and I feel like I'm making progress. My pool is clear and comfy to swim in. I've had NO weird silty stuff forming in the creases of my liner like I had all summer, indicating that I have hopefully in fact eradicated my algae issue. So now I'm just down to figuring out what the perfect numbers are for my pool. Getting the TA down has been a struggle that I'm still working on. Any additional advice would be great but when you advise, please talk to me like I'm a child because when it comes to chemistry and such I might as well be. Thank you for any advice and your patience!
@Jimrahbe - or to anyone else here too...
SWG FC range is 4-6, with high recommendations of keeping it closer to 6, which means my CYA needs to be 80. The only way I get CYA down is adding fresh water to the pool. So I guess my biggest question right now is what FC target would be best? I figure 4 is low and leaves no room for error and I'll be darned if I get another algae bloom! 6 is high according to the liner manufacturer but seems like someone here said I'd be better off with FC 6 rather than 5 so I get it that everyone has their thoughts on this. I've been working really hard to chase these numbers and sort my pool out these last few weeks and I feel like I'm making progress. My pool is clear and comfy to swim in. I've had NO weird silty stuff forming in the creases of my liner like I had all summer, indicating that I have hopefully in fact eradicated my algae issue. So now I'm just down to figuring out what the perfect numbers are for my pool. Getting the TA down has been a struggle that I'm still working on. Any additional advice would be great but when you advise, please talk to me like I'm a child because when it comes to chemistry and such I might as well be. Thank you for any advice and your patience!
For reference : I run mine 24/7 at low rpms (1200 to 1500) I went out to vacuum the leaves yesterday and they were coming down almost as fast as i could suck them. My next few weeks are busy so i decided reluctantly to throw the cover on and not have to fight the leaves. I turned the SWG down from 20% to 6% to compensate for the greatly reduced sunlight and will keep an eye on my FC and adjust as necessary. With the recent cool weather i was due for a turn down of runtime either way.
We had a recent temperature spike into the 90's, then later this week its dropping to the 70's. Gotta love fall I guess. Given what you said then I suppose where I'm at presently chem wise, I'm ok to be a tick high.
I always sit on the high side of the approved scale. I like the wiggle room it provides in case of weather events or high bather load. But even with a week or so of above average temps, the sun doesnt have the same strength right now as it does mid summer. Lesser angle/uv rays/yadda yadda yadda (You still may need some sunblock but not every 30 minutes). So we all have to adjust down to compensate. You can set your VS to run 12 hours with the ic40 at 60% to achieve your 30% per 24 hours wish.
I just watched a few videos and now I have an idea (finally) as to what I'm doing. LOL So, it seems that the video I watched suggested running the faster rpms at midnight to 3am, turning the system off until 7 am and then run from 7a-7p basically. Interesting idea. There are WAY too many options for me. Bottom line, I don't ever want to see algae again. LOL I may slit my wrists... (kidding)
Alright, economically speaking, faster rpms at night and lower during the day makes sense but do you all recommend having the pump run during daylight hours to help with the sun even though fall isn't as direct as summer? I'm likely overthinking a lot of stuff here but its mainly because I'm a scaredy cat and still learning. The idea of my system not on rather frightens me, but I'm willing to experiment. I'm excited to go set my pump...as dorky as that sounds.
Alright, economically speaking, faster rpms at night and lower during the day makes sense but do you all recommend having the pump run during daylight hours to help with the sun even though fall isn't as direct as summer? I'm likely overthinking a lot of stuff here but its mainly because I'm a scaredy cat and still learning. The idea of my system not on rather frightens me, but I'm willing to experiment. I'm excited to go set my pump...as dorky as that sounds.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,415
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The night time run you saw is no doubt do to electric rates. Also, there is no need to run the pump at a rpm higher than is needed to close the flow switch on the SWCG or skim your pool. I see now you have an autocover. So skimming is minimal. So you only need to run the pump long enough to generate your chlorine. At the speed just above what is needed to close the flow switch.
If you do not have an Easytouch controller, does your SWCG power off when the pump is not running? All power should be removed from a SWCG when the pump is not running.
If you do not have an Easytouch controller, does your SWCG power off when the pump is not running? All power should be removed from a SWCG when the pump is not running.
Rpms dont matter to the SWG. As long as the flow is enough to make it come on, it produces the same amount of FC. If i ran a schedule i would run during the day to help combat the sun but its really a personal preference. You could run at night when the electricity is cheaper and start the day high for it to diminish in the sun. But the VS at low Rpm costs peanuts either way so its not alot of savings. I worry more about the rain than the sun. The sun is a given most days. A 5 inch flash flood happens randomly throughout the summer and if im on 24/7 im always ready. For a $10 month difference between half day/full day, i dont care. One problem would pay for 3 or more half seasons of 24/7.
Yes, it does power off when the pump is off. I don't have the EasyTouch thingy. Mine looks like this:
So Setting 1 (850) is very low speed and the SWG doesn't like it that low. I usually run it at 2 (1500 I think) or maybe 3 (I'd have to check the set speed - when trying to move the water through the pool more) more out of ignorance than knowledge. I know priming speed is 1800. If I'm going to set it though for a set time, using 7am-7pm as an example, then what would be a decent RPM?
Edit: Giving it a shot at 1500 since lower than that the heater is mad. lol
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I don’t know your model but mine has the arrows also and I can use those arrows to set rpms from 1100 to 3450 in 5 rpm increments. Some of them are just 8 preset speeds. If you can adjust the speed go for the lowest that the heater needs which will also probably be enough for the SWG
- May 3, 2014
- 59,415
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
How is that done? All the lights are off on the SWCG when the pump is not running?
Red. When there is no flow its red...meaning its not generating, as far as I understand.
You understand right that it’s not producing. It still needs to be completely shut off though due to expulsion risks in case of a flow switch error