High PH Can I keep other levels lower to offset?

Mar 26, 2014
20
League City, TX
So My question is or trouble I should start as
My PH consistantly in one day jumps to 8.2 and higher. I have a SWG and my spa runs off the same pump. Unfortunately the spa comes with a overflow waterfall, which I keep the valve at the lowest setting just to keep it chlorinated.

My question is, can I just keep a lower CH and Lower TA to keep my CSI under a .6. What numbers can I play with to offset the high PH. Otherwise I'm putting about 40-50 oz a day to maintain 7.5.
I just bought a 50# bag of snow joe melt but will wait to see what's better.
I was a victim in the houston area and my CH dropped so I wanted to see what's best before adding.

FC=7
PH=8.3
TA=85
CH=200
CYA=60
Salt=3200
CSI=.46

Thanks in advance
 
Nice to meet you via TFP :)

Regardless of CSI, you want your pH at 7.8 and below for swimmer comfort. I let mine drift up to 7.9/8.0 occasionally and haven't noticed any discomfort, but I correct it when it gets up there.

Just wondering if your pH indicator reagent is fresh, and which test kit you're using?

To answer the question, yep, you can use the other values to keep CSI down and avoid scaling potential.
 
I would try keeping pH around 7.7/7.8 and see how the acid consumption goes. It rises fastest from a lower number, so correcting a bit less might help.

This is a plaster pool right? How young is it?
 
15yrs and yest plaster. I bought the house 2 years ago and was using tabs until studying you guys. Was able to get rid of that mustard algae switching to bleach because of the stupid CYA originally. I just installed the SWG but I was having problems with the ph as quickly as I changed from the tabs at the begining of this season.
 
The tabs were keeping your pH low as they are acidic. Now that you have discontinued them, and added a SWCG, you will need to manage your pH.

Your fill water may be higher in TA? If so, you will be adding acid to lower it and the bubbles created by the SWCG will aerate your water and raise your pH. If you are able to run ahead of the rise in TA from your fill water, if applicable, your pH will stabilize. Otherwise, you will need to continually add acid.

That is what occurs in my case, as my fill water TA is 130 ppm.

Take care.
 
I never run my spa spillover more than 90mins per day. My valve is automated so I can put it on a schedule. Is water returned to your spa through a separate return line or by way of the jets?

Depending on your EasyTouch automation, you may be able to automate the spa spillway so it doesn't run all the time. If your spa is a reasonable size, you can easily buy a small bubble cover for it or buy a cheap Intex cover for the spa and keep the spa covered. That will reduce UV loss and allow to run the spa for only a hour per day or so.
 
I have a manual valve which is almost closed all the way and is setup with the return flow. I have an automatic valve that that allows for spa mode, which doesn't help on the return side. I might get a automatic valve and control the way you are saying. Maybe just an hour. can you set an auto valve to open a certain amount or is it all or nothing? The 1 hour of full power might cause the same situation.

The rain definetly had a High TA! I had it down to 60 and the rain brought it back up to 100. I'm going to try to get it to 45 and see if that helps. Any caution on being too low if I can keep the PH stabilized?
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.