Okay, so it appears there are a couple of different approaches to insulating these things. My Dynasty has the ISO sheets fit into the frame (as I described in my previous post) and an insignificant amount of foam sprayed in, mostly at the bottom. My bud (also in Calgary and here in the forum) has a 1995 Hot Springs Grandee that he says is extremely efficient, apparently completely foamed in as well as having a smaller circulation pump that runs a 100% duty cycle. The big tradeoff in filling the enclosure with foam is making serviceability an absolute nightmare.

But looking at yours, it seems to me that you could cut a set of sheet foam panels and press them into the frame (as in my case) and really maximize the insulation.
"But looking at yours, it seems to me that you could cut a set of sheet foam panels and press them into the frame (as in my case) and really maximize the insulation."

The corners are really where I don't have access to, so I'm not sure how I can insulate or put some foam panels in there. And the areas that I do have access to has spray foam blocking access further into the hot tub to add insulation.
 
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Here is a thermal image from right now. Look at all the heat in the corners. I don’t have access to those areas to try and insulate because of all the spray foam on the components.
View attachment 625442
What was the lid temperature in this picture?

It seems to be a big difference from the first picture. What changed?
 
My hot tub has a schedule function on it. I set when my normal usage will be. What hours during what days I normally use the tub.

The tub then makes sure that it is up to temp (103 F) during those hours. Outside of those hours it will drift down as much as 20 degrees (that is not adjustable) below the set point.
That sounds like a good function. Mine does not have a clock or time of day type thing. There are other functions but without a clock it's tough to make use of them.
 
The corners are really where I don't have access to, so I'm not sure how I can insulate or put some foam panels in there. And the areas that I do have access to has spray foam blocking access further into the hot tub to add insulation.

Hard to tell from your pics, but is it pushed into a corner i.e. up against wall and/or fence? Yeah, that'll be a problem. But on the side(s) where you do have access, can you not just cut the sprayed foam back so it's inside the support framing? Then you could add at least some panels like mine:
IMG_0661.jpg

The access down here is poor (as is my photography), but you get the idea. The two silver panels are the ISO I described earlier. The pink one is a replacement for the ISO that was too busted up to reuse, and just what I had handy, because any insulation is better than none.
 
Based upon the latest surface temperatures, below is a very simple model to estimate heat loss based upon your measurements. The second column assumes that all of the shell has 2" of foam on the surface. The third column shows a scenario to get close to 24kwh per day of energy loss you had estimated. Either the foam is ineffective (e.g. too dense) and/or it doesn't cover much of the shell.

1737662513587.png

 
Hard to tell from your pics, but is it pushed into a corner i.e. up against wall and/or fence? Yeah, that'll be a problem. But on the side(s) where you do have access, can you not just cut the sprayed foam back so it's inside the support framing? Then you could add at least some panels like mine:
View attachment 625500

The access down here is poor (as is my photography), but you get the idea. The two silver panels are the ISO I described earlier. The pink one is a replacement for the ISO that was too busted up to reuse, and just what I had handy, because any insulation is better than none.
Nope, not pushed against anything and I have access to all 4 sides. But, there is limited space to work with. The corners are the areas I need to stuff insulation to most but are hard to access.

IMG_3013.jpeg
 

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Based upon the latest surface temperatures, below is a very simple model to estimate heat loss based upon your measurements. The second column assumes that all of the shell has 2" of foam on the surface. The third column shows a scenario to get close to 24kwh per day of energy loss you had estimated. Either the foam is ineffective (e.g. too dense) and/or it doesn't cover much of the shell.

View attachment 625503

I have confirmed the foam is missing from most of the shell. It was sprayed on the plumbing and what not but not on the shell.
 
I have confirmed the foam is missing from most of the shell. It was sprayed on the plumbing and what not but not on the shell.
I spoke with the support group of the parent company and have a "ticket" in. But my concern is, the spray "full foam" and Extreme foam addition should all have been during the manufacturing process. So, how can they make good on it now that the hot tub is at my house and has a layer of foam covering access to the shell? I sent them a video of the missing foam insulation, but that's just the area(s) I know about and can see. There's probably lots of other surface area that is supposed to have foam insulation and doesn't and I don't even know about it because I can't see it.
 

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Based upon the latest surface temperatures, below is a very simple model to estimate heat loss based upon your measurements. The second column assumes that all of the shell has 2" of foam on the surface. The third column shows a scenario to get close to 24kwh per day of energy loss you had estimated. Either the foam is ineffective (e.g. too dense) and/or it doesn't cover much of the shell.

View attachment 625503

This is a cool spreadsheet. Knowing now based on looking inside the hot tub cabinet more today that this hot tub left the factory floor without having been foam insulated properly, I wonder how the company will try to "do right by me" if at all? How can they add foam to the shell now that it's been fully built and assembled?
 
I'd have to go dig up and crack my old thermodynamics texts to confirm, but I'd be skeptical wrt the claimed losses from the bottom of the enclosure. Still air is always going to stratify, and all losses (meaning slightly cooler air) will accumulate at the bottom, forming a boundary layer through which not much will be lost. So the insulation on the top (cover) and sides are important, but the bottom not very much.
 
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This is a cool spreadsheet. Knowing now based on looking inside the hot tub cabinet more today that this hot tub left the factory floor without having been foam insulated properly, I wonder how the company will try to "do right by me" if at all? How can they add foam to the shell now that it's been fully built and assembled?
It won't be easy to add foam. Stuffing bubble wrap in the open areas would probably be a big improvement. Just stay away from the pump and heater. The objective is to remove as much of the air gaps as possible.

I'd have to go dig up and crack my old thermodynamics texts to confirm, but I'd be skeptical wrt the claimed losses from the bottom of the enclosure. Still air is always going to stratify, and all losses (meaning slightly cooler air) will accumulate at the bottom, forming a boundary layer through which not much will be lost. So the top (cover) and sides are important, but the bottom not very much.
If you actually believe that the air is cooler near the spa bottom within the spa walls than near the top, that actually increases heat loss in that area since heat transfer is proportional to the temperature difference of the two boundaries of the media. So the bottom becomes even more important in that scenario.

However, if the spa is as well insulated on the bottom as it is on the sides (not so great) and if the spa is sitting on top of a wood platform, the combined insulation of the foam and wood would actually reduce heat loss near the bottom so like the lid, the temperature at the bottom of the wood would be cooler than the surface temperature of the walls. However, even in this scenario, the air temperature gradient within the spa walls may not be that significant given it is only 30".
 
It won't be easy to add foam. Stuffing bubble wrap in the open areas would probably be a big improvement. Just stay away from the pump and heater. The objective is to remove as much of the air gaps as possible.


If you actually believe that the air is cooler near the spa bottom within the spa walls than near the top, that actually increases heat loss in that area since heat transfer is proportional to the temperature difference of the two boundaries of the media. So the bottom becomes even more important in that scenario.

However, if the spa is as well insulated on the bottom as it is on the sides (not so great) and if the spa is sitting on top of a wood platform, the combined insulation of the foam and wood would actually reduce heat loss near the bottom so like the lid, the temperature at the bottom of the wood would be cooler than the surface temperature of the walls. However, even in this scenario, the air temperature gradient within the spa walls may not be that significant given it is only 30".
I have stuffed insulation into as many open areas as I can access to. Most are through slits the width of my hand so it is quite difficult. I also added some double sided foil lined insulation wrap in front of the access panels on all sides.

I have no idea what the insulation on the bottom of the hot tub shell looks like because I cant see or have access to. But, based on everywhere else, I’d say there is none.
 
Is the spa on a raised platform that you have access to underneath? Insulation in that location would be somewhat effective.
 

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