Help Wiring A New SWG

[JoyfulNoise]

Thanks Matt I did not know that most 2-speeds didn't have on-board timers. How do their owners tell the pump when to run at low vs high speed?

The speed is switched by energizing one or two legs of the 220V AC input. There are relays and Intermatic mechanical timers (similar to what’s in your box) designed to switch two speed pumps between low and high speed. The pump you have just moves all that circuitry on board.

Using/installing/configuring a current sensing relay is really much easier than it looks. All you would need is current clamp ammeter to read the current draw on one of the hot leads powering the pump when it’s running (no speed, low speed and high speed). Then you’d just set the trip point of the relay to a setting between the standby current and the low speed current. Any electrician worth his labor rate could easily install something line that. Trick is finding one you trust.

 

[Bperry]

Remember also that the SWG has a flow switch on it that prevents it from operating if no water is being pumped. The install instructions say you can wire it up as always on and use the flow switch to determine when it generate chlorine. Though I just used my mechanical timer to control it and use the flow switch as a backup in case my pump and the timer get out of sync.

 

[DanF]

Remember also that the SWG has a flow switch on it that prevents it from operating if no water is being pumped. The install instructions say you can wire it up as always on and use the flow switch to determine when it generate chlorine. Though I just used my mechanical timer to control it and use the flow switch as a backup in case my pump and the timer get out of sync.

Good point, @Bperry. Of course the flow switch can fail also . The primary reason for my putting in the SWG is to reliable have chlorine while I am away from home. Wife and I are retired and we like to take longer duration trips, especially during the brutal summers here when chlorine supply is hyper-critical. So, even though the chances are small of an out-of-sync timer, or a flow switch failing, I'd rather not have to worry about it when away from home.

I'm leaning towards the timer that @C0d3Sp4c3 mentioned in post #12. Although @JoyfulNoise's solution in post #21 will also work, I would have zero ability to troubleshoot it if it ever failed. Then it would be another electrician call. The beauty of the outdoor 120V timer is the programming flexibility, low cost, and it's pretty user-friendly (at least for this user ). However, it requires my SWG to be wired for 120V. I also have a message into CircuPool, but does anyone know if running the SWG at 120V has any negative impacts? Shorter life? Longer run times?

Thanks

 

[-MacGyver-]

Although the instructions do say that the TFP method is to treat the flow switch as a secondary control device, not the primary. The reason is that if the flow switch fails to operate when the pump is off hydrogen gas could build up and cause an explosion. To prevent that condition use a device that cuts the power to the SWG.

 

[Bperry]

Although the instructions do say that the TFP method is to treat the flow switch as a secondary control device, not the primary. The reason is that if the flow switch fails to operate when the pump is off hydrogen gas could build up and cause an explosion. To prevent that condition use a device that cuts the power to the SWG.

I’m curious if anyone knows this switch to be normally open or closed style? If it’s normally open (when no water is flowing) then it would seem to be impossible for a switch failure to cause the generator to enable production. I suppose a potential failure mode for normally open might be the switch being stuck closed (As if water were flowing but no water actually flowing) but that’s the only one I can think of that would have damaging consequences. I guess the reverse could also happen if it were normally closed and some contamination made it stick open when the pump wasn’t running. Curious if anyone has ever seen a failure of the switch like that.

 

[mknauss]

The result of relying only on the flow switch to control the power to a SWCG.

Explosion near the SWG

We were watching TV and heard a major explosion after exploring in the backyard I went into my pool equipment should and found about a 16 in PVC pipe shredded 8in on one side 8in on the other side of where my SWG Is located. I have no Idea what to think. It appears the SWG somehow was not...

www.troublefreepool.com

Flow switch is typically a metal spring loaded paddle that with sufficient flow is pushed towards a sensor that when contacted allows power to the system. Failure modes are if that metal paddle breaks and the connection is made with out flow. It has happened.

 

[Bperry]

The result of relying only on the flow switch to control the power to a SWCG.

Explosion near the SWG

We were watching TV and heard a major explosion after exploring in the backyard I went into my pool equipment should and found about a 16 in PVC pipe shredded 8in on one side 8in on the other side of where my SWG Is located. I have no Idea what to think. It appears the SWG somehow was not...

www.troublefreepool.com

Flow switch is typically a metal spring loaded paddle that with sufficient flow is pushed towards a sensor that when contacted allows power to the system. Failure modes are if that metal paddle breaks and the connection is made with out flow. It has happened.

Oh, I believe it happens, but that’s what I was curious about. It seems that if the paddle breaks off, then the switch wouldn’t be able to respond to water flow and so the SWG would never start even with water flowing.

My pump runs 24x7 but I’m wondering if I should find a way to rewire mine to make double sure it can’t come on without water flowing (in case of a pump failure and flow switch failure)

 

[mguzzy]

My pump runs 24x7 but I’m wondering if I should find a way to rewire mine to make double sure it can’t come on without water flowing (in case of a pump failure and flow switch failure)

That's why its common to have a second timer(or other gizmo) that turns the SWGC on and/or off in concert with the pump's activation. That provides a second fail safe and you are not dependent on only one device.

 

[DanF]

That's why its common to have a second timer(or other gizmo) that turns the SWGC on and/or off in concert with the pump's activation. That provides a second fail safe and you are not dependent on only one device.

That's why I'm going to connect my new SWCG to a digital timer like in post #12. I suppose, because the SWCG is not wired directly to my pump, that the external timer and the flow switch could fail concurrently, but I gotta believe that's very small risk.

I also have a message into CircuPool, but does anyone know if running the SWG at 120V has any negative impacts? Shorter life? Longer run times?

I just got off the phone with CircuPool tech support and was assured that operating the RJ series control module at 120V would make no difference in the performance/life of the cell. Incidentally, he mentioned without me asking that it has a flow switch that will stop the unit if the pump isn't running. I told him I didn't want to risk the switch failing.

 

[DanF]

Would this timer be a better option than one that's similar to post #12? Benefits I see are it is already 240V, so no re-wiring of the SWCG's control module. Also it looks like it will fit inside my existing timer box, so it would have protection from the elements. Downside is I would need an electrician to wire it.

Amazon.com: Intermatic Pb374E Timer, 240V Spst 7-Day Digital Panel Mount Pool & Spa Timer: Industrial & Scientific

 

[RMcGirr83]

Don't know but that price is a bit high. I found the exact same model for under $40.