HELP! Pool won't hold chlorine!

[Jkmccoy]

This started last season and I fought like crazy to keep chlorine levels up. By the end of the season it seemed like we were ok. Pool just opened a week ago. I have been running th pump 24 hours a day, inline chlorinator is at 3 and full and I have been shocking it with the granular shock everyday since the chlorine level won't stay up. My pool guy came today to test the pool and these are the numbers:
Ph 6.8
TA 80
FC 0
TC .5
CYA 100
Hrd 250
Nitrates 5-6 ppm

It seems like my ph is a bit low, my FC is non existent and my CYA is too high. Are the nitrates too high? It seems like everything I am reading is saying that I have to drain the pool and start again. I really don't want to do that considering we have only been through 2 seasons with this water. We also just opened the pool so I had to bring the water level up and we had a huge rain storm which probably added 2 inches of water to the pool. Any advice on how to get this water balanced that doesn't require this to be another full time job would be great.

My pool is gunite and it is 25,000 gallons. I have a cartridge filter. Oh and it's only 2 years old. Not sure what other information you might need.

Thanks,
Jenn

 

[gt6974a]

Why don't you start with draining a quarter. I fought all last season with CYA and mine wasn't that high. That's your problem.

 

[duraleigh]

The CYA test only goes to 100 so it is possible yours is even higher and a quarter drain will not be helpful. Mix a 50-50 solution of Tap water and pool water and test that......that'll give you a better indication of your CYA.

 

[Texas Splash]

inline chlorinator is at 3 and full and I have been shocking it with the granular shock everyday since the chlorine level won't stay up

Hello Jenn! The quote above is the cause of your problem (elevated CYA). Nitrates mean nothing really. You are victim to pool store testing and bad advice, plain & simple. If you're ready to take charge and get your water fixed once and for all, consider the following:
1 - Order the proper test kit and test yourself. Its easy and well worth it. I recommend the TF-100 (link below) XL option with speedstir. This purchase will save you much more this season.
2 - Don't add anything else to your water except about 1 gallon of bleach each day. That won't kill the algae in its entirety, but hopefully keep things from getting much worse.
3 - Remove the chlorine tabs!
4 - When your test kit arrives, do the following:

CYA Dilution Testing:
Add pool water to bottom of sticker.
Add tap water to top of sticker.
Shake.
Pour out half so mixture is to bottom of sticker.
Add reagent to top of sticker.
Shake.
Test outside with back to sun and tube at waist level.
Pour back and forth a few times to see if you get the same result.
Double the result.

The amount of water exchange required is directly related to that accurate CYA test. Don't believe the pool store test. Do those things, and also review the vital links below in my signature and we'll help get you fixed-up.

 

[Jkmccoy]

Thank you so much. I ordered my test kit (it will be here Friday), I bought 9 gallons of bleach and 6 bags of baking soda. I do have one box of borax, but will order more. I am ready for the BBB! I took the tablets out of the chlorinator and cleaned out the skimmers and pump filter.

I do have a question about the CYA dilution testing...Will it be obvious what sticker you are referencing when I get my test kit? I bought the Taylor K2006 kit.

Thanks,
Jenn

 

[Texas Splash]

Oh, okay. The K-2006 has markings but may look different (i.e. 14ml & 7 ml). But the concept is the same. Basically you want to dilute the pool water sample before refilling for the test. You can also see it explained on the TFP Pool School - CYA page. If you have any questions once the kit arrives, let us know. Good job on ordering the kit to take charge of your pool. You'll be happy you did.

 

[Jkmccoy]

Should I worry about the ph levels yet? I don't want to cause any damage to the pool or equipment with a 6.8 ph.

Thanks again for all of your help.
Jenn

 

[Texas Splash]

Sure, go ahead and increase it a bit. 7.2 would be fine. The low (acidic) pH can cause damage to copper tuning in heaters, not to mention if left that way for a long time, compromising plaster.

 

[Jkmccoy]

Would running my waterfalls aerate enough to raise my ph? I don't want my alkalinity to go much higher than it is. What would you say is the best course of action to raise my ph levels?

 

[Texas Splash]

Sure! Crank it up and any other sources of aeration you may have or be able to generate. The more the better. If you find that the pH still isn't increasing as fast as you would like, you can always add a slight amount of borax.

 

[Jkmccoy]

Thank you! I will turn the falls on as soon as I get home. How much Borax should I add?

 

[Texas Splash]

How much Borax should I add?

Aeration should increase the pH, but if it just seems to be stalled and you need chemical help, the Poolmath calculator show that it takes about 212 ounces (13 lbs) (just under 3 boxes) of borax to go from 6.8 to 7.2 in your 25K pool.

If I were you, I would do just one box at a time just to be safe to ensure you don't overshoot. But remember, nothing is as accurate as the test kit you have on its way. So just ensure that when you test and dose you use the numbers from that kit and nothing else.

 

[Texas Splash]

Jenn, I need to make a correction to my post above. The amount of borax required to increase the pH varies based on your current TA. If your TA actually is 80 as noted in your first post, then only about 1 box is all you need to get to about 7.0. Again though, the right test kit would be needed to confirm the true TA. So I feel better simply saying to aerate. I'd hate for you to spend $$ on borax and add only to have to reduce it for a SLAM. The aeration should do the trick, at least until your kit arrives and you know for sure what all those test numbers are.

 

[borjis]

I don't want my alkalinity to go much higher than it is. What would you say is the best course of action to raise my ph levels?

OK you probably won't need to use the baking soda then. Just hang onto it for another day that you may need to raise TA. If it actually is 80 you don't
want that higher as you said and thats what the baking soda will do, raise it.

The first house I bought with a pool had ph same level as yours is currently. As others said, just raise it a bit at a time. You might even want to
wait a few days between additions of Borax. I raised mine too quickly and it clouded up the pool for a week and also caused metal staining
to show itself on the plaster.

Another thing to consider, if your plan is to replace some water to get cya to a good level, you might wait until after that is done before adding
anything else. Of course it depends on your water source (you might do all but cya test on that to see what you have) as draining down
and replacing water should raise the ph up too. (provided your fill water has higher ph)

Had I known that beforehand (I had 300+ cya) I would have just gotten the cya to 50 with water replacement and would then have needed
much much less borax to get the ph to a good level.

 

[Jkmccoy]

So here is the update and I am about to cry! I got my test kit last week, but didn't take a full set of reading until today. I knew my CYA was high based on last years pool store reports and the one taken by the people who opened the pool a few weeks ago. Based on everything you guys have shared with me and everything I have read on the site I knew that I would have to drain. Over the past week I have drained and refilled several times...probably a total of 33 inches of water out of the pool. We finished refilling again last night, so I came home today to take a full reading of tests. This is how we stand:

CYA - well over 100 still! I did another test where I diluted the 7ml sample with half tap water and my CYA came out to 70. Does this mean I have to drain more than half the pool? I feel like That would bring me to draining the whole pool total. I have been using a submersible pump and my pool pump to drain, but I feel like my pool equipment is having issues while draining...air seems to be getting into the system and I can't get it out until the water is back over the skimmers during the refilling process. (I have shut the skimmers off and only have water coming from the main drain but there is still air). We are not allowed to pump into anything other than a drain in my township so we have the hose from the pump coming into our kitchen window and down the sink. Is there a better (and safer for the pool pump) for draining the pool.

PH - not really sure what to say here...it looked to be a 7.0, but after 8 drops the water turned yellow and not orange, red or pink for desired ph level

TA - the test says to add drops until it turn red. Mine turned pink. Is that what they mean or should I continue to add until it is actually red? Based on pink it looks like TA is 100

CH - 275

FC - .5

CC - .5

I have been putting a gallon of bleach in the pool every night and the pucks and nature 2 cartridge have been out of chlorinator since I posted last week.

I am extremely frustrated! This pool is only 2 years old and I am having to deal with this because the "experts" said to use the pucks and granular shock. I feel like I have been purposely led astray. Its like a mechanic telling you to use diesel fuel knowing that he can make more money off you. How is this not illegal? Why don't pool builders tell you how to properly care for the pool? That's like the car dealer telling you to put diesel fuel in your car even when it will ruin the engine.

Please help me get through this because right now I am regretting getting a pool for the amount of money this escapade is costing me.

 

[Texas Splash]

Believe me, we feel your pain! :grrrr: That's why we are all here and enjoy helping people like you. "You need tabs and shock" they said. Ugh. Well, rest-assured once you get the CYA down under 70 or so things will be MUCH better. You certainly have some local challenges with where you can drain, that stinks. Just do the best you can. Don't exhaust yourself with too much testing or chemical adjustments until all of the water exchanging is done. Even if the water begins to get cloudy or green, we can fix that as long as the CYA is lowered. That is priority #1. Thank goodness you have a good test kit now. Don't forget to add the kit to your signature data.

Hang in there! You'll get it. My pool only has a poolside skimmer, no drain, so exchanging water took me several days as well when I first learned about my CYA. But once you fix it ... never gain will you go through this.

- - - Updated - - -

You do realize the pool store is owned by Dr. Evil right?

 

[Jkmccoy]

So is it ok to use my pool pump to drain the pool? It would go twice as fast if I did. Is it normal for the system to get air in in when you are draining with the skimmers off? I am so afraid that my equipment is going to fail prematurely due to the "experts" in the pool industry telling me to use the wrong stuff. How much more of the pool would you recommend I drain? Thanks again for your help!

- - - Updated - - -

Just saw your meme! LOL!

 

[Texas Splash]

So is it ok to use my pool pump to drain the pool?

That depends on your set-up. If you have a main drain it's usually no problem. Water will get pulled from below when the waterline drops below the skimmer. If the pump is still struggling for water with a main drain, your main drain may be plugged or have an air leak. You don't want your main pump to get too much air in it or lose prime and run dry. That's a no-no. Better safe than sorry if needed. Let the slow draining work if that's what you have to do to protect the pump. Pump failure is the last thing you need right now. The pool's not going anywhere.

For the CYA, I use easy math. For example, if your CYA is estimated to be 140 (diluted test showed 70), then replacing 50% of your water would cut the CYA in half to 70. It doesn't have to be perfect, just under 100. The lower the better for you later to save bleach during a SLAM or be able to use a lower FC level on regular days when all of this is over. But if you stop at a CYA of 70 and say "I'm done draining", we'll help you from there.

 

[Jkmccoy]

Is there any worry about the exposed plaster if I drain half of the water out of it? I would assume that half would be toward the shallow end being almost empty right? It takes forever to refill as well. How long is too long for the plaster to be exposed?

 

[Texas Splash]

We don't recommend leaving plaster exposed for too long (days), but if it's only 24 hrs or so it should be okay. The alternative is doing smaller exchanges which is much less efficient. But again, sometimes you don't have a choice. Depending on your water exchange rate of flow, do the best you can.