Help me weigh pros and cons of SWG

May 17, 2017
37
Cave Creek, AZ
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
Hi everyone. I've recently adopted the TFP method of water maintenance, and have been able to keep my pool water in a good spot the last month or two. I live in the Phoenix AZ area where the pool is "open" year-round. It's a 6000 gallon pebble pool with a Pentair VST pump that I run 24/7. I run it at 3000 RPM 2 hours a night for my suction cleaner, then run at 1400 RPM 2 hours at night and 2 hours mid-day for better skimming action, and run it at 1000 RPM all other times to keep the water circulating.

I'm considering adding a SWG system - would be a DIY installation, as I'm pretty handy with plumbing and electrical. I'm weighing the pros and cons - one the main goals would be to get away from daily additions of liquid chlorine...primarily because during the summer we are gone a lot on the weekends (and an occasional week here or there), and don't have anyone to take care of the pool during those times. 2-3 days is one thing, where I can load the pool up with FC before leaving, but a week is more problematic. But I'm reading that the SWG system can cause pH to rise fairly quickly, so would I just be trading daily LC addition for daily acid addition?

What are the tradeoffs for those of you who have switched? I understand the upfront cost of a good SWG system...more acid consumption - what else? We have some flagstone around the pool, should I be worried about staining? Pic of pool attached for reference. Is 1000 RPM on the pump sufficient for a SWG to work? What else should I be weighing in my consideration?

Thanks!
 

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But I'm reading that the SWG system can cause pH to rise fairly quickly,
Not true. If you are currently using liquid chlorine for your sanitation, there will be negligible difference in pH rise. The high TA fill water and high evaporation in our area pushes the pH up, not the SWCG.
Is 1000 RPM on the pump sufficient for a SWG to work?
Maybe, maybe not. I suspect you will find very little difference in electrical usage between 1000 rpm and 1400 rpm, or whatever is needed for the SWCG. You also could just set up the SWCG to run the time each day needed to create the chlorine you need.
 
T,

Other than the initial cost, there is just no downside to using a SWCG.

The only change I would make to your schedule is to never run below the speed that turns on the SWCG. For me this is 1200 RPM. I run my pump 24/7, most of the time at 1200 RPM. I love that I am making a little chlorine all the time and that I am skimming all the time. To do this, costs me less than $20 bucks a month.

When you get out of a chlorine pool, I feel like I need to take a shower. When I get out of a saltwater pool, I feel like I just took a shower. :mrgreen:

Quit thinking about it and do it.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Thanks guys. Sounds like the concerns I had are non-issues. Now to find the right system.

Does the SWG have to go after the filter? I have a decent spot for one between the pump and filter, but I guess it's possible to get debris going through if installed there. May have to get creative with re-routing the filter output pipe.
 

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I did a DIY install of a SWG about a year ago, and it has been great. Like Jim said, there's no downside other than the upfront cost and hassle of installation.

run it at 1000 RPM all other times to keep the water circulating
As you read threads on the subject you'll find some suggest that you figure out the RPM that will close the flow switch and then add 100 or 200 RPM. That was my plan, but the lowest setting for my VSP is 1200 and that keeps the flow switch closed.

and an occasional week here or there
You definitely want a SWG!

SWG system can cause pH to rise fairly quickly
I didn't experience this at all. I was doing liquid chlorine like you until a year ago, and adding a few gallons of MA a month. I still add a few gallons of MA a month. As long as my TA stays at 50 or 60 I don't have to add much acid, but my fill water has a TA of 150-200, so I have to add acid to keep the TA down over time.

should I be worried about staining?
Not from the SWG. If you're worried about salt levels in the pool, you already have some in there from the liquid chlorine you've been using. Also, make sure to measure your salt level before you start adding more after your SWG install. Mine was already 2600, so I didn't have to add much.
 
Now to find the right system.
Circupool is one of the only manufacturers that will honor the warranty on a DIY install. But, there might be something that'll work better with your automation that you'd rather use.

Does the SWG have to go after the filter?
Yes, and if you ever add a heater, it goes after the heater too...it should be the last thing before the water returns to the pool.
 
T,

Other than the initial cost, there is just no downside to using a SWCG.

The only change I would make to your schedule is to never run below the speed that turns on the SWCG. For me this is 1200 RPM. I run my pump 24/7, most of the time at 1200 RPM. I love that I am making a little chlorine all the time and that I am skimming all the time. To do this, costs me less than $20 bucks a month.

When you get out of a chlorine pool, I feel like I need to take a shower. When I get out of a saltwater pool, I feel like I just took a shower. :mrgreen:

Quit thinking about it and do it.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Other than wanting a little chlorine all the time, why can't you run below the speed that turns on the SWCG? I will do that to insure my heat pump doesn't turn on at 2:00am in the morning. Also aren't chlorine levels more level if you don't run at night. That's the point of the OCLT. If the SWCG is running at night, then the FC is slowing increasing until it hits a max sometime around sunrise.
 
H,

Every pool and pool owner is different, so the only real rule is run using whatever works best for you. :mrgreen:

For me, I can't think of any reason that I would want to run the pump without making chlorine. Having a little extra chlorine added at night just means that much less chlorine I need to add in the day time. And again for me, if I run less than about 1200 RPM, I find that my skimmers do not work as well. The only reason I run my pump is to generate chlorine and skim the pool.

I am sure it is just me, but I don't understand the need to run the pump at a low RPM to keep your heat pump from turning on at 2 am. Why does the pump have to run at all? :scratch:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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I am sure it is just me, but I don't understand the need to run the pump at a low RPM to keep your heat pump from turning on at 2 am. Why does the pump have to run at all? :scratch:

I just run it to avoid noise. The heat pump is no louder than the nearby AC units. My wife swims laps at 4:30am. My neighbor's master bedroom is about 30 ft from my pump. Bumping the rpms from 1000 to 1300 to turn on the heat pump for her laps doesn't change the sound level of the pump. Turning the pump off in the evening and then back on at 4:30 am causing it to run through a several minute priming cycle. The pump noise at 3450 rpms is quite a bit louder than at 1300 rpm. Basically, I keep the pump running 24/7 to avoid priming.
 

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Circupool is one of the only manufacturers that will honor the warranty on a DIY install. But, there might be something that'll work better with your automation that you'd rather use.


Yes, and if you ever add a heater, it goes after the heater too...it should be the last thing before the water returns to the pool.
Thanks. I'm thinking the RJ series since it allows finer adjustment. RJ30 is the smallest one I can find - supports up to 30k gallon pool (5x my pool size). I've read going twice the size of your pool - is 5x too much? Or can it be turned down enough to support a much smaller pool like mine?
 
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My situation is nearly identical to Nobody291
 

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