Help me start up my new plastered pool

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MA5177

MA5177

Bronze Supporter
Feb 2, 2021
216
Phoenix, AZ
Pool Size
12500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45
Long overdue.. getting it re plastered as we speak ( demo today). I’m familiar with the basics, have the pool math app setup and a TF 100 test kit on the way.

Once we get it filled I will be doing the startup, I know I need to get my CYA, PH and chlorine up to specs along with the other basic tests.

What I need to know are what other “special” chemicals should I be adding? Like metal removers etc

Also I’ve been told because of my overhead power lines and transformer that I should add a sacrificial anode, should I get zinc or magnesium?
thanks
 
Usually the plaster company will give you a startup guide that must be followed for warranty purposes. I would ask them first.

If they do not have one, then here is a pretty good one that walks you through the steps for the first 30 days. After those 30 days you would want to switch over to TFP guidelines for your chemicals.

www.nptpool.com

National Plasters Council Procedure | NPT Pool Finishes | NPTpool.com

If you’re a builder, remodeler, or home owner with a brand new plaster pool finish, it’s critical that you follow the steps in this guide to protect and prolong the life of your pool finish. Visit NPTpool.com
www.nptpool.com www.nptpool.com
 
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JJ_Tex said:
Usually the plaster company will give you a startup guide that must be followed for warranty purposes. I would ask them first.

If they do not have one, then here is a pretty good one that walks you through the steps for the first 30 days. After those 30 days you would want to switch over to TFP guidelines for your chemicals.

www.nptpool.com

National Plasters Council Procedure | NPT Pool Finishes | NPTpool.com

If you’re a builder, remodeler, or home owner with a brand new plaster pool finish, it’s critical that you follow the steps in this guide to protect and prolong the life of your pool finish. Visit NPTpool.com
www.nptpool.com www.nptpool.com
Click to expand...
Thanks
 
Pool filling time? Your pool will be empty, and that doesn't happen very often. You can use this opportunity to fine-tune the water volume number you use to calculate chemical dosing. The water meter trick. Check out posts #123-134 in this thread, for the trick, and some other pool-filling tips:

SoCal *Splash* Pool

The pics were taken in between watering on day two - not the best representation, as it looks prettier when it's all wet. Looks purdy to me! Congrats!!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Dirk said:
Pool filling time? Your pool will be empty, and that doesn't happen very often. You can use this opportunity to fine-tune the water volume number you use to calculate chemical dosing. The water meter trick. Check out posts #123-134 in this thread, for the trick, and some other pool-filling tips:

SoCal *Splash* Pool

The pics were taken in between watering on day two - not the best representation, as it looks prettier when it's all wet. Looks purdy to me! Congrats!!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Oh great idea!
 
The NPC guide is fine. Follow it for the first 30 days then transition to TFP methods.
 
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Just started up my freshly plastered pool 1 week ago and have to go away for a few days. I’ve been having to add chlorine and acid DAILY to keep levels in range.

Is it ok to use tablets for a few days while out of town? What exactly are in the tabs that are so bad besides CYA?
 

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mknauss said:
Use Effects of Adding Chemical in Poolmath to see what tablets will add to your pool.
Click to expand...
Looks like 1 lb will raise by about 5 which is fine as I may be going SWG and need to raise it anyways. Thanks
 

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The plaster companies guidelines for startup say “between days 4-28 do not exceed 200ppm of calcium”.

My CH is about 325 right now because my fill water is like 200 is this an issue?
 
Not much you can do when the fill water is that hard. I imagine to compensate they would agree that keeping your pH and TA carefully managed during the cure time should help to compensate. For example, using the PoolMath APP I know that if the water temp is about 82, the CH is 325, CYA 30, and salt zero, a TA of 70 and a pH of about 7.6 keeps the CSI barely above zero (0.03) which is a good place for plaster cure. Even a TA of 80 and pH of 7.7 give you a CSI of 0.19 which isn't bad right now. So basically as long as you don't let the pH get away from you, it should be okay. But I would speak to them about this to be safe since they need to honor your plaster warranty.
 
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Texas Splash said:
Not much you can do when the fill water is that hard. I imagine to compensate they would agree that keeping your pH and TA carefully managed during the cure time should help to compensate. For example, using the PoolMath APP I know that if the water temp is about 82, the CH is 325, CYA 30, and salt zero, a TA of 70 and a pH of about 7.6 keeps the CSI barely above zero (0.03) which is a good place for plaster cure. Even a TA of 80 and pH of 7.7 give you a CSI of 0.19 which isn't bad right now. So basically as long as you don't let the pH get away from you, it should be okay. But I would speak to them about this to be safe since they need to honor your plaster warranty.
Click to expand...
Thanks, everyone here was saying to just monitor my CSI and I am good on that. But I was about to add some calcium to get to 400 until I re read their guidelines.

I guess there isn’t much I can do about it other than just keep a close eye on PH, TA
 
Does CYA stay forever or does it wear down over time? They say it’s like “sunblock” for your chlorine so wasn’t sure
 

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