Hello! Moved to a new house; it's my first pool. 30 days in and it's still swimmable! Hoping to keep it that way.

[dangelini]

Hello,
I moved to a house with a pool. My first one!
It's a salt pool, and there are pools in my family (my sister has a salt pool, my cousin has a salt pool,etc.
As the saying goes: "... there are many like it, but this one is mine!"

And ... I've never cared for a pool before.
Discovered TFP and have been reading some advice.

Size: I'm not sure, seems like 30,000 gallons? I need to measure it better
Design: Spa plus pool on upper level. Upper level has ~ 10 x 10 baha deck and floor ranges from 3 feet to 9 feet deep. It has a 35 foot long wall which waterfalls down 10 feet to another small swimmable pool that's entirely 4 feet deep in the lower yard. The skimmer is in the lower pool.

When I took ownership: Salt was at 2000 ppm. Chlorinator had red light. PH was 8.8 Lower pool was all green. Upper pool was mostly clear. Chlorine test showed none.
Now after 30 days: Salt is at 3500. Chlorinator shows green. PH today is 7.7. Both pools now mostly clear. (when pool lights are on I can see that the water near the lights seems a little cloudy). Chlorine test now shows '0.2'. I don't yet now the difference between 'free chlorine' or the other kind.

So ... I think I'm figuring it out? I raised corals in salt water tanks for about 8 years at my previous house, and so know a bit about the chemistry issues of salt water. Though, this is a pool, not a tank for SPS chorals, lol. So I've never had to deal with Chlorine before. Much to learn.

Anyway, hoping to learn from you all!
-Dominic in El Dorado Hills, CA. (between Sacramento and Tahoe)

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome! I sounds as though you have an understanding of pool issues. If you haven't seen it yet, please visit our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry page and refer to the FC/CYA Levels to keep the FC and CYA balanced to avoid algae. If you suspect algae or a large FC loss in 24 hrs, consider doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if you need to perform a SLAM Process. For now, enjoy the site and our references. Let us know how we can help you further. Enjoy!
TF-100 Test Kit
Test Kits Compared

 

[frogabog]

Hi and Welcome!

Your pool sounds amazing!

I did note that you said chlorine is at 0.2. That's not good. See FC/CYA Levels and note the SWG section. You do need more chlorine. As noted above, please read up at ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry.

Also, please get a proper test kit. A pool is no different than an aquarium, and I assume you wouldn't be without a full proper test kit for your fish. The information about them is noted above, although we do prefer to recommend the TF-100 since it's just a way better deal.

Additionally, you saw algae, and your pool is somewhat cloudy. That usually indicates that you need to follow the SLAM Process. Which of course requires a proper test kit.

Pool School is your friend!

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Yo! Dominic... welcome to TroubleFreePools, dude! Glad to have ya here <paisano??>

I'd love to see a pic or three of this interesting pool! It's big and has upper and lower spots.....very cool.

Maddie

 

[dangelini]

frogabog,
that totally makes sense; the cl being too low.
They left me a test kit with built in color bars and two built in vials and the chlorine test color is such a light yellow I can barely tell the difference from clear. So far for the first month I've focused only on salt level and ph. Seems the next step is to learn up on CL and get that to a proper level. Though, likely from my salt coral tank days, there's an itch to start focusing on alkalinity.
Today I gave the pool a good scrubbing with the brush they left me ... and even the 'mostly clear' upper pool had a lot of light green cloudy stuff break free as I pushed the brush along the bottom. I'll be studying up at those links you provided, pool school, abc's etc. I still haven't figured out how the chlorinator really works ... sometime I find it with just a couple of green lights, other times it's all lit up with a ton of them. Much to learn!

 

[YippeeSkippy]

If you want to post a pic of your pool and equipment pad we can help you determine what all is there?

Maddie

 

[frogabog]

Ahhh... well you've just described algae. Which does happen if you don't maintain FC at appropriate levels. See FC/CYA Levels, your SWG numbers are below the first table.

You will need to perform the SLAM Process to get rid of the algae. To do this, you will need to know your CYA level, and you do need a proper test kit. The TF-100 ships fast, although with SLAM you may want to order the XL Option since that will provide you with plenty of reagents for your SLAM and thereafter. If you choose the K-2006, make sure to get the K-2006C because the 2006 has small bottles that won't last long at all.

The information about the difference between FC and CC is in ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. Give it a read. Also, I understand you wanting to focus on TA, but with a pool TA is actually the least important. Chlorine is king, exactly the opposite of an aquarium!

I'm sure there's information about your SWCG lights online, or maybe the manual was left there for you?

 

[dangelini]

Texas Splash,
that TF-100 kit and writeup look great.

So far, just for CL, I'm using a test kit I found that the sellers left behind in the underground pool pump room. Dusty, without instructions, and i don't know how old it is. Here's a pic of what it looks like. Maybe I need to buy a fresh kit before embarking on trying to get the CL to the right level.

For salt and ph I've been using electronic testers.

Maybe the CL test in this old test kit might have gone bad with age? Then again ... it might only be a few months old for all I know.

Dom

 

[frogabog]

Yeah, you'll need the test kit before you can actually dial in the chlorine.

That is an OTO test kit, it will only read up to 5ppm FC, even if it is good. It doesn't measure CC. It also has CH and TA reagents. Not sure what the white bottle is, maybe CYA reagent? I don't recognize the brand. I'd say it's not going to help you at this point.

For now, you'll probably want to raise FC with bleach up to 5ppm each day till you get your test kit. You can try the OTO (fill to line, 5 drops each for FC and pH), and use Pool Math to determine how much bleach to get you to 5ppm. It won't kill the algae, but it might help keep a major bloom at bay. Beyond that and for SLAM, wait for the test kit to arrive. (TF-100 ships fast, even to the west coast)

Your SWG is clearly not keeping up at this moment. Your salt level may not be appropriate, or maybe it's not running long enough/set high enough. Or maybe your CYA is hindering it. We just don't know without good test results. I'd suggest getting the Taylor 1776 salt test kit. With a SWCG, you will want to have a CYA of 70-80ppm. The TF-100 will have plenty of CYA reagent that you can use to check that.

You don't say what material your pool is made of. Is it concrete, plaster? Sounds like plaster, but it would be better to know for sure. If you put your pool and equipment information into into your signature it helps us not to have to ask questions like that.

 

[dangelini]

Maddie,
<paisano??> . Aha, yes! Born in the U.S. and all, but I fly back to see the family as often as I can. (Pescara area)

Here's pics of the pump room and the equipment that's in it. The pumps are in a room under the patio, level with the small lower pool, and shares a wall with the wall of the upper pool. I've noticed that the noise of the pumps stays nice and contained within that room and you can't really hear them from up above.

Dom

 

[dangelini]

frogabog> "I'm sure there's information about your SWCG lights online, or maybe the manual was left there for you?"

They left me no manuals... they left me a dusty test kit, a length of blue bendy pipe, a pool cleaning robot, and a pole with a net in the end that has a hole in it. lol

But yes, there's docs re the chlorinator on-line; it's an intelliChlor IC40. I just haven't learned it yet So far the only trick I can perform with it is when I brought the salt level up to 3500 the red 'low salt' light finally went green which of course makes sense. It is wired to the control panel so I suspect the panel is telling it when to make chlorine ... but mysteries remain: like today I had the pump running on 'high speed' yet the "Sanitizer Output" was not lit up. Then sometimes I find the pool is running in a low speed pump mode (I found it is configured to be in that low speed filter pumping mode from 9 to 4), and the "Sanitizer Output" is fully lit up. So ... seems I need to figure out not just how it works, but how/when/why it is being 'turned on' electrically by the control panel. All in good time.

frogabog> "You don't say what material your pool is made of. Is it vinyl, concrete, plaster, fiberblass?"
I believe it is plaster. (or concrete?). The waterfall surface is some kind of marble tile, and I notice what look like stalagmites of white material forming from some of them.

frogabog>" If you put your pool and equipment information into into your signature it helps us not to have to ask questions like that."
Aha, ok, will do. Getting late so I'll do that tomorrow.

Here's some pics of that Chlorinator I took back when salt level was low.

Today when I checked it the salt light was green, but the sanitizer output leds were not lit. (i need to read the manual for this thing asap)

 

[frogabog]

Re: those stalagmites... That's probably calcium.

I don't know very much about CSI as my pool is vinyl, so I'll defer to someone else to help you sort that out but in the meantime, read about it here. Calcium Saturation Index (CSI) - Trouble Free Pool

 

[dangelini]

Alas, when I tried to buy the TF-100 with XL option, I get a strange error (see pic below).
So, I went ahead and ordered a TF-100 on amazon just now. Hopefully it arrives soon. There was no option for XL though via amazon. Oh well.

 

[frogabog]

That's weird... I just ran through to checkout and it's working fine. The shipping is the issue with Amazon TF-100, but I think I recall someone saying it did arrive in a reasonable time recently. Not sure how it works with Amazon, if they have kits in a warehouse ready to go or if it's supplied by TFTestkits one by one.

The XL Option can be purchased separately another time. Or, if you can get it to go through you should be able to cancel with Amazon.

FYI, if you become a TFP supporter, there is a discount at TFTestkits... Become a TFP Supporter - Trouble Free Pool

 

[dangelini]

Maddie> "I'd love to see a pic or three of this interesting pool! It's big and has upper and lower spots.....very cool."
Ask and ye shall receive!
Here's some pics I've grabbed from my laptop ... the sun has long since gone down here...
Some of these I took, others I grabbed from the house listing (we moved in a month ago)

As you can see there's a lot of trees ... they pile up leaves on the water surface during the night but when the filter cycle starts in the morning they wash over the waterfall and into the lower pool. Then the skimmer eats them.

When I took ownership the lower pool was green and slimy. I got in (it's 4 feet deep) and walked around but it was super gross due to a thick layer of green slime. Now that's almost all gone. But like I said above, the floor of the upper pool did make visible green puffs when I brushed it today.

 

[frogabog]

WOW! That's quite a pool! Very interesting concept. I assume the lower pool is intended for the kids?

Beautiful house and property! I always wondered what summer looks like in the winter ;~}

Green pools need to be SLAMmed, your residual algae is probably what is consuming your chlorine and also why the SWCG can't keep up. We'll be round to help you fix it up when your kit arrives. Thanks for the pics! I love it!

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Gorgeous.....very Italian looking actually. I could have sworn those were olive trees.

-So you have a pretty big looking filter (do you know how to clean it?)
-And I see what looks to be a gas heater (kinda ancient looking? Looks like a short R2D2 to me!) but that's probably just for the spa, you think?
-Lots of other stuff I can't name.....but others here can! @jimmythegreek @Bama Rambler @Richard320

Maddie <Benevento, Italy.....so a little south from your peeps>

 

[dangelini]

Maddie>"Gorgeous.....very Italian looking actually. I could have sworn those were olive trees."

Good eye! There are olive trees mixed in with the oaks. In fact, the front of the house features two 100+ year old olive trees the previous owners imported from Spain when they redid the house. (Yeah, they were a little crazy ... we loved the Italian look so when it came on the market we jumped on the opportunity.)

Ok, one more pic of the house (attached) that comes with the pool ... the front with the olive trees ... then I'll stick to pool discussions


-Dom

 

[dangelini]

>-So you have a pretty big looking filter (do you know how to clean it?)
heh, I have no idea. So... they need cleaned occasionally?

>-And I see what looks to be a gas heater (kinda ancient looking? Looks like a short R2D2 to me!) but that's probably just for the spa, you think?
I found if I select 'spa' on the remote control then the gas heater turns on. The spa then climbs to 103 degrees F. The pool stays cool. But ... if I turn on 'Spa' and 'waterfall' at the same time, then the spa gets hot but it overflows its water into the main pool.

So, I found some model numbers on the equipment:
The three pumps:
Main pump: it's a 5 HP, (230VAC, 16 amp, 3.2KW) "Sta-Rite" IntelliPro Variable Speed Ultra Energy Efficient Pump".
Booster pump: Pentair/Century/Centurion 3/4 HP I notice this pump runs when the pressure powered pool cleaner is active
Spa Bubble Jets Pump: 2 HP STA-RITE MAX-E-PRO

7 and 3/4 HP total. This might explain the shocking electric bill I just got. They are charging me a 'High Usage Penalty Rate;' of 0.49 cents per kWH. Sigh.

Heater: STA-RITE 400,000 BTU gas. I heated the spa on a Sunday. I found my utility charged me $8 for gas that day. Not bad actually; I was afraid heating the spa would be much worse $ wise.

Filter: a "System 3 Filtration" / "Modular Media" .
Max Working Pressure: 50 PSI
Flow Rate: 125 GPM
Filtration Area: 450 Sq Ft Filtration Area
Filtration Rate: 0.28 GPM/SQ FT
Um ... It says "Tested for Fresh Water only swimming pools". Um.... yet it's a salt pool with chlorinator. Odd.

Currently, I see the needle at 16 PSI

Well, that's about all the info I have on the pool. I'll start checking out the other forum categories to do Q/A/Discussion re specific issues.
Had a busy day but will read up on this 'SLAM" method mentioned above and also hit some of the suggested reading above.

 

[dangelini]

frogabog>"I assume the lower pool is intended for the kids?"
Yes, I think so. If the adults are in the yard (there's a fire pit, seating, other stuff down there) then the kids can swim in the little pool and still be in sight of them.
Which reminds me, i've got 3 kids ... the two older ones swim like fish but my youngest is 3 and I'm worried about safety. Considering some safety upgrades. Will seek out those discussions in the forums.

Dom