Having a pool built and need advice

[PoolGate]

I don't like auto fills or auto drains for this reason. If they fail, you could see floods or significant water drains out of the pool. Since you have both, are they logically connected? If not it seems they could fight against each other. And if you change one you probably should change the other as they need some distance between the lower and upper limits to not be in opposition to each other.

 

[voidpointer]

are they logically connected

What do you mean logically connected?

if you change one you probably should change the other as they need some distance between the lower and upper limits to not be in opposition to each other

Well I can adjust the autofill but I can't adjust the drain. How do you suggest I adjust the drain? Is there a face plate I can swap out that has the grilles higher up so that it allows a higher water line?

 

[voidpointer]

Maybe I can replace the plate with something like these?

• https://www.amazon.com/Flow-Pool-Overflow-Drain-Upgrade/dp/B08H8W8M2R
• Pool Overflow Drain Stopper, Snap On Overflow Drain Adjustable Plate

 

[mknauss]

Lots of threads on the overflow drain cover.

Google search results

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[tommelton]

You could simply remove the grate cover, take a small thin piece of plastic, cut it to fit the backside of the grate cover and use that to block the lower portion of the slits, then re-install the grate cover. You can cut the thin plastic to leave whatever amount of opening you want.

 

[voidpointer]

I ordered a refill for my test kit since they were on sale and I wanted to support the site. Based on everything I've learned, I did a few things:

• I wrote the number of drops needed for each reagent on its lid. For whatever reason, it's impossible for me to memorize the drops needed for the CH and TA tests. This helps tremendously.
• I bought 1 test vial and stir bead per test. I used colored stickers on each vial to match it to the test they go with so I don't cross contaminate anything. It also means I can run all the tests and not have to clean up until the very end. Ultimate lazy mode!

 

[voidpointer]

Couple of questions about logging in pool math:

• How important is it that I log chemical additions in PoolMath? Looking at some of the logs of folks that have replied here, looks like everyone is logging additions. I haven't been logging them because I've been following the advice of just pouring MA/CL in directly without measuring. I've been relying on the next day's tests to determine how much I added. I really don't think I would be able to "eyeball" additions and also put a number to them in the logs...
• A lot of folks marked their pool as closed in PoolMath and I haven't seen any logs since Oct/Sept last year. Does this mean those folks have not done any testing for 6+ months?

 

[ajw22]

• How important is it that I log chemical additions in PoolMath? Looking at some of the logs of folks that have replied here, looks like everyone is logging additions. I haven't been logging them because I've been following the advice of just pouring MA/CL in directly without measuring. I've been relying on the next day's tests to determine how much I added. I really don't think I would be able to "eyeball" additions and also put a number to them in the logs...

Estimate what you poured in. Does not need to be exact. No one will audit what you put in. You know there are 128 oz in a gallon jug. If you think you poured in about 1/4 then log 32 oz. 1/3 then log 40 oz. When you empty the jug look back and see if your estimates total around 128. Do it enough and you will get good at it.

• A lot of folks marked their pool as closed in PoolMath and I haven't seen any logs since Oct/Sept last year. Does this mean those folks have not done any testing for 6+ months?

Yup, my pool water has not been touched or tested since October closing.

 

[PoolGate]

Couple of questions about logging in pool math:

• How important is it that I log chemical additions in PoolMath? Looking at some of the logs of folks that have replied here, looks like everyone is logging additions. I haven't been logging them because I've been following the advice of just pouring MA/CL in directly without measuring. I've been relying on the next day's tests to determine how much I added. I really don't think I would be able to "eyeball" additions and also put a number to them in the logs...
• A lot of folks marked their pool as closed in PoolMath and I haven't seen any logs since Oct/Sept last year. Does this mean those folks have not done any testing for 6+ months?

I log around 80% of mine. I try to do better but forget sometimes. If I remember I backtrack and add it. I guesstimate for MA since I don't measure it either. It is for your own records. For instance if you had an issue with your plaster and needed warranty work, this would be proof that you kept up with your water chemistry.

I don't test at all off-season. I basically ignore my pool unless I notice the water level is too high and then drain some.

 

[voidpointer]

Not testing for 6 months sounds scary... what do you do about pH? Isn't it constantly going up? And in the winter months, the SWG gets turned off due to low water temps. How do you know the CL won't drop to 0, or low enough to cause an algae problem?

 

[ajw22]

Not testing for 6 months sounds scary... what do you do about pH?

Nothing.

Isn't it constantly going up?

It reaches an equilibrium point with TA. pH does not climb forever into double or triple digits.

And in the winter months, the SWG gets turned off due to low water temps.

Yes

How do you know the CL won't drop to 0, or low enough to cause an algae problem?

I don't care. I put Polyquat 60 in at closing in addition to Chlorine. I have a solid cover and have never had an algae problem at opening. If I did some jugs of chlorine will fix it. I need to chlorinate using LC for about the first month anyway until the water is warm enough for the SWG to run.

 

[voidpointer]

The Winterizing In-Ground pool page in pool school makes the winterization process look rather involved. I thought the gist of it was to just leave water in the pool and keep the pumps running if there's a chance of freezing. I also don't have a pool cover, nor do I know if I need it, or if I need it what its purpose is in cold weather. This might be a can of worms but I should probably understand it now as opposed to right before the end of the year...

 

[ajw22]

The Winterizing In-Ground pool page in pool school makes the winterization process look rather involved. I thought the gist of it was to just leave water in the pool and keep the pumps running if there's a chance of freezing. I also don't have a pool cover, nor do I know if I need it, or if I need it what its purpose is in cold weather. This might be a can of worms but I should probably understand it now as opposed to right before the end of the year...

There is no generic one size fits all answer for managing a pool in the winter. It depends on your local climate, how much attention you want to give to the pool in the winter, if you want the pool or spa available for use, and the risks to your equipment you are willing to take.

Some winters my pool can look like this:

 

[voidpointer]

There is no generic one size fits all answer for managing a pool in the winter. It depends on your local climate, how much attention you want to give to the pool in the winter, if you want the pool or spa available for use, and the risks to your equipment you are willing to take.

Some winters my pool can look like this:

What pool?

I'm in Texas, as you know, and the above picture is really rare. And if it does happen, it is usually unexpected. I'll do some more searching and learning on the forum and see how far I can get.

 

[PoolGate]

Yep whole different animal up here in northern climates! My water temp falls well below 60 in October and doesn't climb above 60 again until May. Below 60 algae is not a concern.

 

[voidpointer]

I need to find a Texas guide to pool winterization. I see at least one or two threads in the forum about winterizing in my state. I'll need to take the time to read them.

 

[Newdude]

So more importantly than what we do with updating logs, is what you should do, which is update your logs. It's all fine and dandy in your head but if you update them, we can see them too when you get stumped.

They don't need to be exact, with you eyeballing. Update them within reason so we can see your PH is rising to 8 every 3 days and is taking 1/3 gallon (etc etc) to push it back to the 7s.

I use PM 9 times out of 10 for everybody else's pool. If I have any saved logs, there's NO telling where they came from.

 

[voidpointer]

I found this thread, which was enlightening: Winterizing in Gulf Coast Texas

Basically: Keep pool running 12 months a year. Which makes sense. This means I'll still be checking CL in the winter but not as often.

 

[Newdude]

This means I'll still be checking CL in the winter but not as often.

Yup. If the FC holds for 2 weeks, GREAT. If it warms up a little and only holds for a week, adapt on the fly and dose accordingly.

 

[kimkats]

Florida is a lot like TX so go with what Dude said...........just keep a CLOSE eye on the water temp. Once it starts trending towards 60 then up you FC testing. The only time I got an algae outbreak once I started using TFP was when I was not paying attention to the water temp in the spring.