Greetings

chezedog

New member
Jan 5, 2025
3
NorCal
I've had an endless pool for 5 years, thought I was on top of the water chemistry thing, but the water has destroyed my heater. The guy that installed the new one recommended this site for learning to change my ways. So here I am!
 
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Welcome to TFP! Lets keep your new heater up and running for a good long time. At the same time your pool will be clearer than ever before!

The first step is you getting your own test kit. Test Kits Compared

But, but, but...............the pool store will test it for free...................Is it really free if you walk out of the store with your arms full and your wallet empty? AND it looks like something if off on your water so you having and using your own kit is a must to get your pool water like it should be.

Once you get your test kit let us know and we will go from there.
 
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Once you get your test kit let us know and we will go from there.
I've been using a Taylor test kit for years. The heater guy gave me circular watergram device and recommended a phone app called Orenda.
They agree that my current LSI value is 0.20. which is in the acceptable range, I'm told.
He also suggested that I use muriatic acid, chlorinating liquid and 3" chlorinating tablets in a floating dispenser.
I had been using dichlor and clorox some PH stuff in a bag.
He says check the chlorine after every swim, and test the water once a week.

I test things in this order:

Alkalinity
Calcium Hardness
PH
Chlorine
Cyanuric Acid

To achieve these levels:

Alkalinity - 80 - 120 ppm
Calcium Hardness - 180 -250 ppm
PH - 7.2 - 7.8
Chlorine - 0.5 ppm
Cyanuric Acid - 30 - 50 ppm

Temperature is kept at 85°

The Endless Pool contains 2500 gallons of water.
 

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Well I am at a lose here. That is a one of the test kits we recommend. If your water was kept within the range you listed then it was fine and should not have damaged the heater.

I would not use the chlorine tablets/pucks too much as they add CYA to your water. CYA builds up over time and the only way to remove it is to remove and add some water..

I am going to point you to another resource to help you with your water levels: PoolMath This tells you what happens if you add this much of that.

Did you see the part of the heater was damaged? What was it and what did it look like?
 
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Chlorinating
  1. Your chlorine is too low. You should always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
  2. You should be testing FC daily. From the FC / CYA relationship chart linked above, if you have to dose FC higher than range for your CYA, so that you are IN RANGE when you test, do that.

Corrosion
  1. Do NOT use pH "stuff in a bag," if it is dry acid then it contains sulfates. Sulfates will corrode metal. Use muriatic acid instead. You might consider a partial drain to lower the sulfate level (see no drain water exchange in the draining wiki) Draining - Further Reading
  2. pH is a huge driver of corrosion. The lower the pH, the more acidic, the more chance of corrosion (ask me how I know). I would maintain your pH between 7.6 and 8.0.

 
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The heater guy gave me circular watergram device and recommended a phone app called Orenda.
Download and use Pool Math. Link-->PoolMath

Login with your TFP username/password.
Get the subscription for $8 per year...allows you to save logged tests and chemical additions.
Enable "Track CSI" and "Track Temperature."
Enable sharing with TFP. We can then see your logs when you need help.

We don't use LSI, we use CSI. Pool math will calculate your CSI.