Greetings, switching to TFP method

[GreenLeaf]

this is where i buy my test kit

Taylor FAS DPD Test Kit Chlorine - SERVICE SIZE K-2006C

Taylor FAS DPD Test Kit Chlorine - SERVICE SIZE K-2006C, Pool Vac Parts stocks Taylor FAS DPD Service Size Test Kit Chlorine. Part Number: K-2006C

www.poolvacparts.com

Done - 2006C and speed stirrer on its way. Thanks.

I will be needing a SWCG ASAP.

Is there any kind of Aussie equivalent to Compare and Review Saltwater Chlorine Generator Prices and Features | DSP that compares the options for the Aussie market? Thanks @wireform for your RJ60 calculation.

I see DSP only lists the Circupool RJ60 and Autopilot RC52 as options for 40k-60k Gal. I don't see any Aussie distributors for either.

 

[Mdragger88]

Today I drained my pool. Happy to watch the pool tint in the water disappear forever, hopefully.

Three questions...

Firstly, over the past few weeks I have noticed whiter areas at the bottom of the pool, mainly down the west and north side (ie: not consistent with sun). It is not present at the top of the walls, it's strongest in the curved corners at the bottom.

Now that the pool is draining I can get a good close look.

Can you let me know what you think this is, whether I should do anything about it, and what I could do about it. It isn't a big bother for me, and I can live with it. I'd mainly just like to know what it is.

Interestingly, I took these photos in shade and while not obvious to the naked eye, a close up photo does show what appears to be some blue/green staining on the white. From afar it isn't visible, and not enough to bother with treating it specifically. You can see "water covered", "wet" and "dried" versions.

Secondly, as I will be soon refilling and re-balancing the pool, can I ask what TFP's opinion of magnesium salts are? I read that all SWGs work with magnesium as well as sodium salts. I get the feeling magnesium salts are fancy and "feel better". I read that magnapool uses a magnesium/potassium mix. I don't mind the extra expense if there is some tangible benefit (nicer feel, less taste, "good for muscles", etc).

Thirdly, in terms of putting quality salt and balancing agents in (in the context of this post on TFP about her pool turning blue due to salt being adulterated by "yellow prussiate of soda"), any tips on which brands/sources to use to ensure I am really starting with a clean, unadulterated slate.

Many thanks.

I must ask - why are you draining the pool? That’s generally a last resort.
If you have an algea problem you will still need to do the SLAM Process upon refill (although it shouldn’t take as long)
Here’s some info on safely draining & why one might want to

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Brad_C]

Chloromatic (Davey/Monarch/Whomever owns them this week) do a 50g/hr

 

[GreenLeaf]

I must ask - why are you draining the pool? That’s generally a last resort.

Copper.

 

[jseyfert3]

Fyi, my chlorine went up to 17 due to the cold weather snap we had recently and despite the high level there was NO chlorine smell. Not exaggerating.

Thanks for letting me know. Interesting. Can I ask a few questions?

1. What CYA and FC are you rolling with?

I second this. If we have friends coming over for a pool party, I take the FC up to the SLAM level of FC if we had a bunch of friends coming over. Last summer I had it at a FC of 16 with 40 ppm CYA. A friend asked if we had chlorine in the pool because they could not smell anything.

I have never ever smelled chlorine in our pool myself either. Two years in so far.

 

[GreenLeaf]

FC of 16 ... friend asked if we had chlorine in the pool because they could not smell anything ... I have never ever smelled chlorine in our pool myself either. Two years in so far.

 

[Mdragger88]

Copper.

 

[GreenLeaf]

Chloromatic (Davey/Monarch/Whomever owns them this week) do a 50g/hr

Thanks Brad.

The Davey Chloromatic Lifeguard looks interesting, PH/ORP control, acid pump, "low salt options", iPhone app to adjust set points. One positive Whirlpool review. Interested. So looking at the datasheet, we're looking at the DCLG-35C (35 g/hr Chlorine gas, 53 g/hr 65% equiv. Calcium Hypochlorite)?

I am assuming the DCLG-25CLS is the largest "low salt" option, which has the same outputs as the DCLC-25C at 38 g/hr 65% Calcium Hypochlorite).

 

[CRAD_oz]

Or this one @45g/hr. POOL LAB PL45 SALT CHLORINATOR

 

[Brad_C]

Actually the MCS50C was what I had in mind, but it looks like Davey have completely lost the plot with their Chlorinator range.
The Comm 500 would do the job, but my gut says use a different manufacturer.

 

[GreenLeaf]

Or this one @45g/hr. POOL LAB PL45 SALT CHLORINATOR

Looks like I'm angling for this one, made just around the corner.

The pool is now refilled 60%.

Water was going green and a touch cloudy so I shocked it with FC40 (Nil CYA). Have a bilge pump moving water around. Now it's cleared up, but still green tinted.

I read on here that probably means some iron in the water, but "a bit of green initially usually filters out in the first few days".

Should I just review the green tint > 3 days after refilling, backwashing, balancing, and letting things filter for a few days while maintaining and hand dosing CYA50/FC7?

 

[mknauss]

Careful on the high FC without CYA, that will push the iron in the water to stain the pool surface. Never go above 3 ppm FC without CYA in the water.

 

[GreenLeaf]

Eek! Oh goodness @mknauss, I didn't check the SLAM chart and relied on memory. I thought to kill algae you needed FC > 30. I see on the SLAM chart that is dead wrong. Oh dear. Thanks MkNauss! Ok, so I probably have pulled iron into the water - now what to do?

EDIT: Ok I wasn't going crazy, here is where I read to "shock it till it's blue" and "Shocking the pool to 30 ppm of free chlorine residual, in the presence of proper pH levels, will destroy most algae". Unfortunately, that wasn't TFP Ok, never reading advice for another website ever again!

I have a bilge pump, have read about using Polyfill (is there something special about using polyester vs cotton), also this guy's sock fix. Will try something like that.

 

[mknauss]

Wait and see. Any sun on the water would have burned off the FC pretty quickly.

With your type filter, the iron will not filter out very well. Putting paper towels or pillow stuffing in the skimmer basket may capture some of the iron if it is still in the water.

 

[GreenLeaf]

Thanks - will go the PolyFill route!

 

[Newdude]

will go the PolyFill route

Guzzy gave it a heck of a write up back when. Check it out and there are several MacGuyvered bucket filter setups for more ideas if you search for it.

What I thought were old iron stains on my cartridge filters, is iron my water!

Hi all Amazingly I found no posts on the forum about this. So I was the victim of the dreaded Iron contaminated Clorox Pool Salt about 3 seasons ago. Apparently it was worse than I thought. There is a nice darker area in my mottled dark plaster in the deep end from salt additions from that...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[aussieta]

i find old t-shirts work a treat
white ones show what you captured better
just a random thought popped into my head
how about using coffee filters as a skimmer sock

 

[wireform]

Coffee filters don't stand the chance. They're designed for non pressured use. They will restrict in short order if not bust through the bottom by virtue of the suction.

 

[GreenLeaf]

I have set this contraption up, using 2 bags of polyfill and some mesh.




Here's a video:

Should I put a cotton tshirt over the top? Does Iron like to stick more to cotton or polyester?

 

[aussieta]

move over MacGyver, there is a new player in town
that looks awesome