Green Tint to water

[Lilmama]

I just filled my pool up 3 days ago, and it had a green tint to the water. The water is not cloudy I can see all the way to the bottom, it just looks green. my pump has been running continuously to try and help clear it up. I tested my chemistry with the k-2006 kit and here are my results. I've already done the pool calculator to see what adjustments I need to make. The only concern I have is that it says I need to replace 43% of my water to get the cya down, but I am worried since we have horrible water that this will only enhance the GREEN tint. In my readings I included what the pool calculator suggested for each area. Can someone give me some advice please?

7600 gallon above ground
pH 8.0 (add 27oz ma)
cya 70
FC 16.8 ( it took 84 drops with the 25ml sample 1 drop = 0.2ppm)
TA 210
Ca 40 (ca chloride 248oz) now with this test the kit states that after adding the 5 drops of R-011L if hardness is detected sample will turn red mine was actually a pink not really red but I went on to add R-0012 and it took 4 drops to get it to blue so that's how I came up with 40 so not sure if that is really accurate.

 

[mknauss]

What have you added to a freshly filled pool to raise your FC and CYA?
Does your fill water have iron in it?
When doing the FC testing, use a 10 ml water sample, one scoop of powder, and each drop of reagent to clear is 0.5ppm.

Please complete your signature so we know what type of pool, volume, equipment, source of water, etc.

 

[Lilmama]

When my husband see that the water was green he added 32oz of stabilizer and 2 gallons of bleach. I think he was thinking algae (he was only trying to help). As far as the iron I am not sure I have not taken water to have it tested and I don't think that comes in my test kit. I actually just received this new test kit yesterday but waited until this morning to test so I am new to this kit. Again its the taylor k-2006. Do I need to do another test for the FC using the 10ml sample?
Thanks

 

[mknauss]

What is the source of your water? Well, municipal system, ? Do you get red stains in your sinks, tubs, toilets, etc?

 

[mknauss]

Your pH reading above is not an accurate test as your FC was above 10 ppm. Do not test your pH when your FC is above 10 ppm. I see you added acid based on that so when your FC drops to below 10 ppm, probably by tomorrow some time, you can see what your pH is.

 

[Lilmama]

A community well, I live in a very rural area. I don't get red stains, and have never had this issue before. I did check my cartridge in my pump and its not green or brown like I would have thought either.

 

[mknauss]

OK -- It might be iron but it might go away once your pH and FC drop.

Does your pool have a skimmer?

 

[mknauss]

Also - the stabilizer you added only put 30 ppm CYA in the water. Was this a complete fresh fill?

 

[Lilmama]

Also - the stabilizer you added only put 30 ppm CYA in the water. Was this a complete fresh fill?

Yes a complete fresh fill. Skimmer??

 

[mknauss]

A skimmer is a device that pulls the water from the surface to filter out leaves, etc. Most above ground pools do not have them. No worries.

So, your CYA cannot be 70ppm if you only added 32 oz of stabilizer.

 

[Lilmama]

A skimmer is a device that pulls the water from the surface to filter out leaves, etc. Most above ground pools do not have them. No worries.

So, your CYA cannot be 70ppm if you only added 32 oz of stabilizer.

Well I followed the directions on the test kit and the black dot disappeared completely at the 70 mark?? I used 7ml of pool water and 7ml of the cya reagent mixed for 30 seconds. Do I need to try this again?

 

[mknauss]

Not right now. If you are sure it was 32 oz of stabilizer then you have 30 ppm CYA in the water.

When you do the CYA test, try this next time.

Once you have your solution ready, back to the sun, etc. Fill the vial to a line, say 80, lower the vial to your waist level and glance for the dot, you see it, add solution to the 70 line, glance, see it, repeat until you no longer see it with a glance. Then use the CYA value one step above the line you read. So if you stopped at 50, use 60 ppm CYA.

The vial is in logarithmic scale. So it is not viable to interpolate between the lines. Just use the whole numbers, such as 50, 40, 30, ....

 

[Lilmama]

Not right now. If you are sure it was 32 oz of stabilizer then you have 30 ppm CYA in the water.

When you do the CYA test, try this next time.

Once you have your solution ready, back to the sun, etc. Fill the vial to a line, say 80, lower the vial to your waist level and glance for the dot, you see it, add solution to the 70 line, glance, see it, repeat until you no longer see it with a glance. Then use the CYA value one step above the line you read. So if you stopped at 50, use 60 ppm CYA.

The vial is in logarithmic scale. So it is not viable to interpolate between the lines. Just use the whole numbers, such as 50, 40, 30, ....

Suggestion on when to test again?

 

[mknauss]

How was the stabilizer added? Was it solid granules or liquid?

See what happens by the end of today with the green tint. Your pH should have come down from the acid that was added and the FC should fall with the sun.

 

[Lilmama]

How was the stabilizer added? Was it solid granules or liquid?

See what happens by the end of today with the green tint. Your pH should have come down from the acid that was added and the FC should fall with the sun.

It was granules, placed in a sock and disolved from there. I will retest this evening.

 

[Lilmama]

mknauss Im so sorry I feel bad not getting back with you but I got called into work and then we had storms. I ran test this morning and followed your directions on the FC and cya. Here are my results and nothing but rain water has been added.
FC 12.5 (using the 10ml = to 0.5ppm -> 25 drops)
pH 7.8 ( I forgot you said not to test pH is FC was above 10)
cya 70 mark on vial (followed you instructions)
Ta 200
At this point Im ready to drain the pool again and start over. Water still has a green tint although getting lighter but its been a week since starting all of this. Water is still clear. But I know the chemistry is important to get right and hoping to get that done before making drastic decision of running water bill up another 100 bux.
Thanks

 

[mknauss]

If water is clear but green, that is normally iron. But typically that turns brown at higher pH/FC. Are the walls of the pool slimy?

Still confused how 2 lbs of stabilizer raised our CYA to that level.

 

[Lilmama]

No sir, I even checked filter for that green gunk slime. Ive dealt with algae before and it would of course always be a green slime scale on the filter.

 

[mknauss]

Then you probably have iron. You can use a sequestrant.
Read Stains in Your Pool - Trouble Free Pool

 

[Lilmama]

So I follow the directions for stain removal in that section? I will be having to order the ascorbic acid is why I am asking to make sure I am getting the right stuff. With that being said it also talks about getting pH and chlorine down, I can put the MA to it to get pH down but how in world am I going to get this chlorine down.