Green pool despite chemicals

[AimeeH]

Primuspaul,

Post #10, I tried to explain the dry chlorine vs liquid. The CYA or the calcium added by dry chlorine types are not "consumables"..........they DO NOT dissipate in the pool without draining water.......eventually causing problems for most.

Of course, in a climate more northern than mine, maybe you have enough of a water exchange by closing method in winter that it isn't an issue. I strongly suggest reading ABC's of pool water chemistry and other links posted by Cliff in post #3.

 

[Donldson]

Isn't your pool still green? And your comments sure don't look like you have read any of the links that have been given to you. Test kit ordered?

Seems the cost of managing a pool is a moot point if you can't use it.

Also the numbers you posted are incorrect. I would tell you why, but you didn't cite your source so I can't find the correct context.

 

[HiddenRiver]

OK, but we're back to the chlorine tabs again:

[/B][/B][/B][/B][/B][/B][/B][/B]At 91% I'm getting $2.19 / lb, not $2.40. I'm also not sure where he's buying such cheap bleach, but either way, the tabs look like they are the most efficient unless accounting for pH adjustment, but then I also have to drive (potentially far since I don't know where he buys it for so little) to get the bleach and given that it's mostly water, that can get pricey (remember the tabs include shipping cost already).

On the subject of Plain bottled chlorine bleach...this was my pool today maintained only with plain chlorine bleach although I did use Calcium hypochlorite (Refresh) last week while we were on vacation.

. It works great!!!

 

[primuspaul]

Isn't your pool still green? And your comments sure don't look like you have read any of the links that have been given to you. Test kit ordered?

Yes, still green. I bought the TF100 with the speedstir as someone suggested.

Seems the cost of managing a pool is a moot point if you can't use it.

Also the numbers you posted are incorrect. I would tell you why, but you didn't cite your source so I can't find the correct context.

The numbers are from mknauss's cost comparison link (quoted in that post).

It works great!!!

I didn't say it doesn't work. I was just wondering where and how he was getting it cheap enough to be cost-effective. Where, what size bottle, what parameters (contents), what brand, and what price? I want to get an idea of a "cheapest" per chlorine target and search from there.

 

[mknauss]

You need to be sure to input current prices for the products used in that comparison thread I linked to.

Those prices are no longer valid. Just the method of comparison.

 

[Winnie-the-Pool]

I didn't say it doesn't work. I was just wondering where and how he was getting it cheap enough to be cost-effective. Where, what size bottle, what parameters (contents), what brand, and what price? I want to get an idea of a "cheapest" per chlorine target and search from there.

Liquid Chlorine is typically sold by the gallon, prices vary from one locale to the next. It's something you need to source locally, as most places don't ship it. Try Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes even your grocery store (Bleach, NOT Clorox, scented, spashless, etc) When comparing prices you need to know the percentage of Sodium Hypochlorite, usually between 6-12.5%.

While you are waiting for your test kit to arrive, please complete your signature to help us help you. Read this BEFORE You Post

 

[ship of fools]

I'm in NY too and we can get liquid chlorine (not bleach) in 2.5 and 5 gallon jugs for $8 and $15. I normally pay the extra $1 and get two of the 2.5 jugs because they are easier to handle. They are 12.5%

 

[planoattorney]

Yes, could you recommend a testing kit for my situation? I don't know how much to buy since I don't want them to go bad over time/from moisture.

And can someone elaborate on using bleach? I always thought it was too diluted to be cost-effective. Anyone have any math?

Great Value Cleaning Bleach, 128 fl oz - Walmart.com
View attachment 86005

There is a calculator and it is handy . . . but the simple solution that will make you sleep well at night is this. Buy the TF100 test kit with the SpeedStir (it is in the options - you will be glad you did). While you are waiting for it to arrive, buy bleach, lots of bleach (be sure to check the date code). You want fresh bleach, it degrades over time and faster if stored outside, so beware of Home Depot or Lowes bleach which at least here in Texas is stored outside in the heat, some sunlight, etc. these things degrade bleach really fast. Avoid "bargain bleach" like the stuff you get at the Dollar Store, but don't waste your money on Name Brand either - store brands are generally the same, it is the date code you care about most and if there is "concentrated" that means higher % bleach but avoid fragranced and "splashes" at all cost.

Now, since you are waiting for UPS to deliver your test kit, see if you can get a local pool store to do a CYA test, and then using the instructions you were provided in the other links, SLAM your pool and do not be stingy with the liquid bleach - I learned the hard way, when it comes to pool chemicals, penny wise = pound foolish. But, I also learned that the TFP method is about 40% of the cost of what I was doing. It just takes a leap of faith to get there.

Hopefully your kit arrives within a few days, and you can start testing yourself for more accurate results. While using the local store, simply smile and nod when they tell you what chemicals to use, claim you have them if you need an excuse, but do not follow their advice. Do the SLAM per the instructions on this site. Do not give up, and do not stop when the pool "looks" good. Yes, I did that, I was still thinking about saving pennies. Had to SLAM twice but I did learn a lesson. Your pool is clear when the test kit says your pool is clear and not before.

Once clear and balanced and you like the look of your pool again - you will like it - I strongly suggest getting the instructions here and adding Borax to the pool. This is another spot where you just have to bite the bullet and buy the stuff, but next year, you will see the results paying dividends.

 

[HiddenRiver]

There is a calculator and it is handy . . . but the simple solution that will make you sleep well at night is this. Buy the TF100 test kit with the SpeedStir (it is in the options - you will be glad you did). While you are waiting for it to arrive, buy bleach, lots of bleach (be sure to check the date code). You want fresh bleach, it degrades over time and faster if stored outside, so beware of Home Depot or Lowes bleach which at least here in Texas is stored outside in the heat, some sunlight, etc. these things degrade bleach really fast. Avoid "bargain bleach" like the stuff you get at the Dollar Store, but don't waste your money on Name Brand either - store brands are generally the same, it is the date code you care about most and if there is "concentrated" that means higher % bleach but avoid fragranced and "splashes" at all cost.

Now, since you are waiting for UPS to deliver your test kit, see if you can get a local pool store to do a CYA test, and then using the instructions you were provided in the other links, SLAM your pool and do not be stingy with the liquid bleach - I learned the hard way, when it comes to pool chemicals, penny wise = pound foolish. But, I also learned that the TFP method is about 40% of the cost of what I was doing. It just takes a leap of faith to get there.

Hopefully your kit arrives within a few days, and you can start testing yourself for more accurate results. While using the local store, simply smile and nod when they tell you what chemicals to use, claim you have them if you need an excuse, but do not follow their advice. Do the SLAM per the instructions on this site. Do not give up, and do not stop when the pool "looks" good. Yes, I did that, I was still thinking about saving pennies. Had to SLAM twice but I did learn a lesson. Your pool is clear when the test kit says your pool is clear and not before.

Once clear and balanced and you like the look of your pool again - you will like it - I strongly suggest getting the instructions here and adding Borax to the pool. This is another spot where you just have to bite the bullet and buy the stuff, but next year, you will see the results paying dividends.

Great post!

 

[Winnie-the-Pool]

There is a calculator and it is handy . . . but the simple solution that will make you sleep well at night is this. Buy the TF100 test kit with the SpeedStir(it is in the options - you will be glad you did). While you are waiting for it to arrive, buy bleach, lots of bleach (be sure to check the date code). You want fresh bleach, it degrades over time and faster if stored outside, so beware of Home Depot or Lowes bleach which at least here in Texas is stored outside in the heat, some sunlight, etc. these things degrade bleach really fast. Avoid "bargain bleach" like the stuff you get at the Dollar Store, but don't waste your money on Name Brand either - store brands are generally the same, it is the date code you care about most and if there is "concentrated" that means higher % bleach but avoid fragranced and "splashes" at all cost.

I'm sure they meant splashless not "splashes"

 

[primuspaul]

In NY we can get liquid chlorine with 12.5% strength for about $15 for 5 gallons. That should last you about 10 days with a 30k gallon pool. I have found it to be far less costly than tabs. Add in the fact that it doesn't make your calcium hardness or cya continually rise and i have found it to be the most effective way to maintain my pool. A SWCG will require a cell replacement every few years that will cost roughly the same as the chlorine over time but be far easier than buying and adding chlorine

But if you're happier continuing to use tabs by all means have at it. This method isn't for everyone but as you can see it is the way many of us prefer. I spend less money each year, have a much cleaner pool and am in control of my pool. On top of that i have received help on several major problems (a leak which led to a floating liner along with a collapsed pipe out of my skimmer) and solved them both myself!

Could you tell me where in NY they sell this? I'm getting rather terrible rates in my local stores.



I searched all around and even 55 gallon drums are selling for more per unit of chlorine.

 

[AimeeH]

Primuspaul,

Despite the efforts to point you in the right direction regarding the ABC's of pool chemistry you seem to continue to want to compare liquid chlorine to stabilized dry products. By price per pound, you are comparing apples to oranges. They aren't the same.

If you want to post up test results with your TF-100, we will be happy to advise on next steps to clear up green pool.

 

[primuspaul]

Primuspaul,

Despite the efforts to point you in the right direction regarding the ABC's of pool chemistry you seem to continue to want to compare liquid chlorine to stabilized dry products. By price per pound, you are comparing apples to oranges. They aren't the same.

If you want to post up test results with your TF-100, we will be happy to advise on next steps to clear up green pool.

That's just an old image I had attached. The latest comparison I posted compares only liquid chlorine products (like bleach). I just didn't see an option to delete that old picture, so it's just there as an attachment.


The test kit has not arrive yet and I wanted to figure out where I was going to get the bleach once it did.

 

[Winnie-the-Pool]

Could you tell me where in NY they sell this? I'm getting rather terrible rates in my local stores.

View attachment 86149

I searched all around and even 55 gallon drums are selling for more per unit of chlorine.

Glad to see you got your signature done.

Do NOT even bother pricing scented chlorine!!! Just plain regular bleach if you can't find the higher percentage liquid chlorine.

Prices vary throughout the country and you can't really shop for this online.

Have you tried any of the stores I suggested? I know some folks in the NY area have mentioned a store that I believe is called Ocean State Job Lots?!?

 

[ship of fools]

I get the 2.5 or 5 gallon jugs at any of the hardware stores near me. Ace, True Value etc

I'm in Albany

 

[primuspaul]

I get the 2.5 or 5 gallon jugs at any of the hardware stores near me. Ace, True Value etc

I'm in Albany

I got the kit today. Any online video showing how to use it properly?

I also found some discount bleach. It's not labeled so I assume it's the standard 6% chlorine. At $1.78 / gal, it comes to $29.75 / gal of chlorine, which is a bit higher than the lowest prices I've seen on this forum.

 

[mknauss]

I got the kit today. Any online video showing how to use it properly?

http://www.youtube.com/user/tf100testkit?feature=results_main

 

[primuspaul]

http://www.youtube.com/user/tf100testkit?feature=results_main

So which tests do I have to perform?

 

[Winnie-the-Pool]

So which tests do I have to perform?

Perform a full set of tests, post your results like this and folks here will guide you on your next steps:
Note the CYA test must be done during the day in the sunlight.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Did you download the PoolMath App (Link in my signature)? It's a great way to track and dose your pool.

 

[primuspaul]

Perform a full set of tests, post your results like this and folks here will guide you on your next steps:
Note the CYA test must be done during the day in the sunlight.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

Did you download the PoolMath App (Link in my signature)? It's a great way to track and dose your pool.

I have a basic phone. I guess I'll test it tomorrow morning/afternoon since I will need the sun to be up.