Green pool despite chemicals

[primuspaul]

I have 30,000 gal pool that has turned green and cloudy (not see-through). I added 8 lbs (1 lb rated as good enough for 12,000 gal per instructions) of shock and the following day added some clarifying chemicals to it, but it is still cloudy 1 day later.

Pool is in-ground with a sand filter.

Likewise, for the future, what is the most efficient way to buy chlorine for pool maintenance? That is, most lbs of chlorine per $.

 

[JohnT]

Welcome to TFP!

I’d suggest you check out they SLAM Process process. Clearing a green pool may take a week or more, especially with a sand filter.

Usually liquid chlorine is the best value, but if you also need CYA then other products might be good deals for short-term use.

 

[ctrav]

Welcome to TFP...
How have you been maintaining your pool (service, pool store)? Do yo have a TFP recommended test kit to know whats in your water? More info is needed about your pool, equipment and current chemicals used. You can get there and have a crystal clear pool but its a process. Take a look at these links...

The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

Chlorine/CYA Chart

Test Kits Compared

Read This Before you Post

 

[primuspaul]

Welcome to TFP!

I’d suggest you check out they SLAM Process process. Clearing a green pool may take a week or more, especially with a sand filter.

Usually liquid chlorine is the best value, but if you also need CYA then other products might be good deals for short-term use.

OK, I suppose the first step is to get the supplies. Could you help me figure out how much I'm supposed be paying per lb of chlorine? The liquid chlorine items don't have any information regarding how much chlorine is actually in there. This is the best deal I've seen for bulk chlorine:

Rx Clear 3 Inch Dissolving Stabilized Chlorine Swimming Pool Tablets 50 lbs 78399251501 | eBay

It works out to $2.00 / lb of chlorine.

 

[primuspaul]

Welcome to TFP...
How have you been maintaining your pool (service, pool store)? Do yo have a TFP recommended test kit to know whats in your water? More info is needed about your pool, equipment and current chemicals used. You can get there and have a crystal clear pool but its a process. Take a look at these links...

The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

Chlorine/CYA Chart

Test Kits Compared

Read This Before you Post

My dad has been shocking it once in a while and putting tablets into the skimmer. It worked in the past, but the rains and heat have been excessive this year so maybe that contributed to our downfall.

 

[primuspaul]

Also, I was just wondering, is stuff like this:

https://www.amazon.com/HTH-Shock-Super-Treatment-52008/dp/B01DP67F9E

Just overpriced gimmicks? It's not anymore "potent" or effective per lb, correct? I imagine you guys mostly just use the bulk tablets that you buy in 50 or 100-lb buckets?

 

[Donldson]

Welcome to TFP!

You need to rethink your idea of chlorine. Best price per pound of product is not really a thing. There are several different types of chlorine and all solid forms come with something extra that keeps the chlorine (which is naturally a gas) in solid form. This can be calcium, lithium, or cyanuric acid. Then there is liquid chlorine, which is much pure but if you are going by product weight is much "weaker" than a solid product. Yet it is what we use nearly exclusively and recommend because it doesn't come with the solid extras that can build up and cause problems.

I can guarantee you very few if any of us buy tablets in 100 pounds bulk, much less use them for regular chlorination. I would highly recommend you read the links ctrav posted.

 

[RiseNShine]

I have 30,000 gal pool that has turned green and cloudy (not see-through). I added 8 lbs (1 lb rated as good enough for 12,000 gal per instructions) of shock and the following day added some clarifying chemicals to it, but it is still cloudy 1 day later.

what kind of shock was it (look at the "active ingredients")

Pool is in-ground with a sand filter.

how old is the filter and how long ago, if ever, has the sand been changed?

Likewise, for the future, what is the most efficient way to buy chlorine for pool maintenance? That is, most lbs of chlorine per $.

Salt chlorine generators are really efficient, after the initial investment. I guess ask yourself how long you'll be maintaining the pool.

 

[primuspaul]

what kind of shock was it (look at the "active ingredients")

Pretty sure it was this:

https://www.amazon.com/HTH-Shock-Super-Treatment-52016/dp/B07895QQ3L

About twice the price per lb as tablets.

how old is the filter and how long ago, if ever, has the sand been changed?

Filter is old, but sand was completely replaced (old sand was completely drained with shop vac) 2-3 years ago.

Salt chlorine generators are really efficient, after the initial investment. I guess ask yourself how long you'll be maintaining the pool.

We've blown enough money on chlorine. If it pays for itself after a few years, Id say it's worth it. Could you post some details? How much would I need to spend on a unit big enough for a 30kgal pool?

Are you talking about something like this:
Amazon.com : Hayward Goldline AQR15 AquaRite Electronic Salt Chlorination System for In-Ground Pools, 40, 000-Gallon Cell : Swimming Pool Chlorine : Garden Outdoor

And then I'd just pour water softener (rock salt) into it? Could you provide some basic details on running it (power consumption, whether rock salt bought from hardware stores can be used, how long it can be expected to last, what parts of it need to be replaced and how often, etc...)?

 

[AimeeH]

OK, I suppose the first step is to get the supplies. Could you help me figure out how much I'm supposed be paying per lb of chlorine? The liquid chlorine items don't have any information regarding how much chlorine is actually in there. This is the best deal I've seen for bulk chlorine:

Rx Clear 3 Inch Dissolving Stabilized Chlorine Swimming Pool Tablets 50 lbs 78399251501 | eBay

It works out to $2.00 / lb of chlorine.

Dry chlorine is always stabilized by something. Calcium hypochlorite (cal-hypo) is stabilized with calcium. Dichlor and trichlor are stabilized with Cyuranic acid (cya). Both are substances that can build up in your pool and have undesirable effects. This is why we mainly reccomend using liquid chlorine or just plain bleach. It doesn't add any of the other undesirables.

As for you sand filter, you should never really have to exchange the sand, but can perform a deep clean of the sand filter.

But first, read up on some basics with the links posted above in post #3 by Cliff

 

[HiddenRiver]

Hi primuspaul! Welcome to TFP!!! We are really glad you are here but you might find that we do things a little differently and the recommendations provided are very specifically made for your pool type, size, equipment source water quality and current chemistry etc. in addition the recommendations provided at TFP rely on obtaining the cheapest source of chemicals that can be used and in the simplest way. So rather than fancy pool chemicals (that cost a lot) TFP recommends using plain chlorine bleach mostly, but sometimes muriatic acid or baking soda or borax to balance your pools chemistry especially to keep it safe for swimmers, but also crystal clear and sparkling.

So quick and immediate answers we cannot provide until there is more understanding of your current pool chemistry. That can be obtained only with a good chemistry testing kit with clear directions and information about what test results are out of whack and just what to do about it.

I hope you are able to take some time to read and digest and consider the linked articles.

I will echo what some have already said—the solid chlorine also includes other chemicals that result in a buildup of those chemicals and eventually your need for chlorine becomes out of hand indicated by constant algae blooms and unsafe water. But we can’t know if this is your problem until test results can be considered. Free chlorine, combined chlorine, Calcium hardness, alkalinity, pH, CYA and salt if you are using a SWCG. What type of filter, size and type of pool...etc.

We can also provide a couple of recommendations for the testing kit. You will then be mostly independent of your pool store or Amazon or the need for all kinds of chemicals that may not be necessary for keeping a clear sparkling pool. I hope you will consider this!

 

[RiseNShine]

Pretty sure it was this:

https://www.amazon.com/HTH-Shock-Super-Treatment-52016/dp/B07895QQ3L

About twice the price per lb as tablets.Filter is old, but sand was completely replaced (old sand was completely drained with shop vac) 2-3 years ago.

We've blown enough money on chlorine. If it pays for itself after a few years, Id say it's worth it. Could you post some details? How much would I need to spend on a unit big enough for a 30kgal pool?

Are you talking about something like this:
Amazon.com : Hayward Goldline AQR15 AquaRite Electronic Salt Chlorination System for In-Ground Pools, 40, 000-Gallon Cell : Swimming Pool Chlorine : Garden Outdoor

And then I'd just pour water softener (rock salt) into it? Could you provide some basic details on running it (power consumption, whether rock salt bought from hardware stores can be used, how long it can be expected to last, what parts of it need to be replaced and how often, etc...)?

You have calcium hypochlorite (cal-hypo).
DO NOT get it anywhere near other chemicals. Nasty stuff.

Yes, that's one of many salt chlorine generators. I suggest doing some research on this forum and Google for those details. But in a nutshell yes, you add salt to the water and the SWG produces hypochlorous acid and sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine). So you don't have to pay for chlorine, just the salt to keep the level up. Let me know if you want to go into further detail, I am in NYC and could help you with your problem and decide on a SWG if you like.

 

[primuspaul]

Hi primuspaul! Welcome to TFP!!! We are really glad you are here but you might find that we do things a little differently and the recommendations provided are very specifically made for your pool type, size, equipment source water quality and current chemistry etc. in addition the recommendations provided at TFP rely on obtaining the cheapest source of chemicals that can be used and in the simplest way. So rather than fancy pool chemicals (that cost a lot) TFP recommends using plain chlorine bleach mostly, but sometimes muriatic acid or baking soda or borax to balance your pools chemistry especially to keep it safe for swimmers, but also crystal clear and sparkling.

So quick and immediate answers we cannot provide until there is more understanding of your current pool chemistry. That can be obtained only with a good chemistry testing kit with clear directions and information about what test results are out of whack and just what to do about it.

I hope you are able to take some time to read and digest and consider the linked articles.

I will echo what some have already said—the solid chlorine also includes other chemicals that result in a buildup of those chemicals and eventually your need for chlorine becomes out of hand indicated by constant algae blooms and unsafe water. But we can’t know if this is your problem until test results can be considered. Free chlorine, combined chlorine, Calcium hardness, alkalinity, pH, CYA and salt if you are using a SWCG. What type of filter, size and type of pool...etc.

We can also provide a couple of recommendations for the testing kit. You will then be mostly independent of your pool store or Amazon or the need for all kinds of chemicals that may not be necessary for keeping a clear sparkling pool. I hope you will consider this!

Yes, could you recommend a testing kit for my situation? I don't know how much to buy since I don't want them to go bad over time/from moisture.

And can someone elaborate on using bleach? I always thought it was too diluted to be cost-effective. Anyone have any math?

Great Value Cleaning Bleach, 128 fl oz - Walmart.com

 

[mknauss]

Cost Comparison of Chlorine Sources

Also Pool Math app has a Bleach Cost calculator in it.

Order a TF100 test kit
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.
I also have the SpeedStir. It makes testing much easier.

 

[Donldson]

As I already said, you are comparing apples to oranges. A tablet is not "99.3% chlorine", it is 99.3% trichlor. Pure chlorine is a gas, it doesn't come in tablet form unless it is kept at -151 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

[primuspaul]

Cost Comparison of Chlorine Sources

Also Pool Math app has a Bleach Cost calculator in it.

Order a TF100 test kit
The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006-C. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want.
I also have the SpeedStir. It makes testing much easier.

As I already said, you are comparing apples to oranges. A tablet is not "99.3% chlorine", it is 99.3% trichlor. Pure chlorine is a gas, it doesn't come in tablet form unless it is kept at -151 degrees Fahrenheit.

OK, but we're back to the chlorine tabs again:

Trichlor Tabs/Pucks ......... $2.20 / 0.915 = $2.40 but $3.83 when accounting for Washing Soda to adjust pH
Dichlor .......................... $2.60 / 0.554 = $4.70 but $5.73 when accounting for Washing Soda to adjust pH
73% Cal-Hypo ................ $2.40 / 0.724 = $3.31
Lithium Hypochlorite ....... $6.00 / 0.352 = $17.05
12.5% Chlorinating Liquid . $0.336 / 0.108 = $3.11
6% Bleach ..................... $0.15 / 0.057 = $2.63

At 91% I'm getting $2.19 / lb, not $2.40. I'm also not sure where he's buying such cheap bleach, but either way, the tabs look like they are the most efficient unless accounting for pH adjustment, but then I also have to drive (potentially far since I don't know where he buys it for so little) to get the bleach and given that it's mostly water, that can get pricey (remember the tabs include shipping cost already).

 

[JohnT]

OK, but we're back to the chlorine tabs again:

[/B][/B][/B][/B][/B][/B][/B][/B]At 91% I'm getting $2.19 / lb, not $2.40. I'm also not sure where he's buying such cheap bleach, but either way, the tabs look like they are the most efficient unless accounting for pH adjustment, but then I also have to drive (potentially far since I don't know where he buys it for so little) to get the bleach and given that it's mostly water, that can get pricey (remember the tabs include shipping cost already).

Cheaper or not, tabs are a major cause of water problems. They aren’t worth the headache.

 

[ship of fools]

In NY we can get liquid chlorine with 12.5% strength for about $15 for 5 gallons. That should last you about 10 days with a 30k gallon pool. I have found it to be far less costly than tabs. Add in the fact that it doesn't make your calcium hardness or cya continually rise and i have found it to be the most effective way to maintain my pool. A SWCG will require a cell replacement every few years that will cost roughly the same as the chlorine over time but be far easier than buying and adding chlorine

But if you're happier continuing to use tabs by all means have at it. This method isn't for everyone but as you can see it is the way many of us prefer. I spend less money each year, have a much cleaner pool and am in control of my pool. On top of that i have received help on several major problems (a leak which led to a floating liner along with a collapsed pipe out of my skimmer) and solved them both myself!

 

[primuspaul]

In NY we can get liquid chlorine with 12.5% strength for about $15 for 5 gallons. That should last you about 10 days with a 30k gallon pool. I have found it to be far less costly than tabs. Add in the fact that it doesn't make your calcium hardness or cya continually rise and i have found it to be the most effective way to maintain my pool. A SWCG will require a cell replacement every few years that will cost roughly the same as the chlorine over time but be far easier than buying and adding chlorine

But if you're happier continuing to use tabs by all means have at it. This method isn't for everyone but as you can see it is the way many of us prefer. I spend less money each year, have a much cleaner pool and am in control of my pool. On top of that i have received help on several major problems (a leak which led to a floating liner along with a collapsed pipe out of my skimmer) and solved them both myself!

CYA doesn't go away on its own?

 

[ship of fools]

CYA doesn't go away on its own?

Not during the summer season. I do find that mine disappears over the winter