Got started, fixed algae overnight

I've now had a second episode of CYA dropping to 40 and causing FC to drop more than expected. Does this happen normally? I thought CYA normally increases over time. As the temperatures warm up, I'm thinking it might be easier with travel etc. to switch pool to salt. What do y'all think?
 
I've now had a second episode of CYA dropping to 40 and causing FC to drop more than expected. Does this happen normally? I thought CYA normally increases over time. As the temperatures warm up, I'm thinking it might be easier with travel etc. to switch pool to salt. What do y'all think?
If you are not using Pucks, you will lose 5-10ppm CYA per month.

I'm salt. I was LC. I will never go back. Best pool decision I ever made was to go salt. I've done 3 weeks of travel and FC was the same on return.
 
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Do you have automation?

If not, I personally would get the Circupool RJ-45+ for your size pool. We recommend you buy a cell that is at least 2x the size of your pool. I like the adjustability (5% increments, which means less back and forth with output %) and the output of the cell. That is what I have and would buy again.

There are lots of options for budget, ease of install etc.

Good comparison chart:
 
Thanks for the recommendation. I don't have a pool controller. I bypassed the basic one that came with the pool and have replaced with a Lutron Caseta switch to turn pool motor on/off. So, practically, I have a phone app, scheduler, and Siri for pool control. Will the Circupool controller be able to control my pump motor etc. also or will that remain separate?
 
Thanks for the recommendation. I don't have a pool controller. I bypassed the basic one that came with the pool and have replaced with a Lutron Caseta switch to turn pool motor on/off. So, practically, I have a phone app, scheduler, and Siri for pool control. Will the Circupool controller be able to control my pump motor etc. also or will that remain separate?
Separate, it will not control pump. But you will want to wire it to your switch so that it only goes on when the pump is running. Or you can wire an outlet to the switch and plug the circupool unit in...
 
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How many amps is that switch rated for? If it is not rated for at least the start up amp draw of your pump motor it will melt the device, wires, or worse.
 
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Circupool Amp Draw:

240 volts is about 1 amp.

120 volts is about 2 amps.
But he has his pump on it now. My 1.5hp pump pulls 12 amps
All the info I found shows 6amps max for those switches
That device is fine for the swg - not for the pump.
 

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But he has his pump on it now. My 1.5hp pump pulls 12 amps
All the info I found shows 6amps max for those switches
That device is fine for the swg - not for the pump.
Yep! Sorry, I wasn't saying it didn't matter, I thought it would be valuable for OP to have the amp draw to figure out the right solution!(y)
 
Sorry, should have clarified. The Caseta switches control the relays that actually control the pump. Once turned on, the motor current doesn't transit the Caseta. The pump motor was a dual wire (2 phase?) that could not be connected directly to a Caseta switch. I had to do some research but eventually figured it out with the right relays etc. Works beautifully.

Just oredered the RJ45+. To wire the SWG I will likely connect it to Caseta directly. This means the SWG controller will only be on if the pump motor is on, correct? And once I set the Chlorine PPM target, I shouldn't need to fiddle with this controller much - other than keeping an eye on the warning lights and such?

Now, on to researching how to prep the pool.
 
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This means the SWG controller will only be on if the pump motor is on, correct?
Not really. There would be power to the pump, but if the pump failed and stopped pumping water, the cell would still be on. Can the relay handle the current requirements of the cell and the pump?

And once I set the Chlorine PPM target, I shouldn't need to fiddle with this controller much - other than keeping an eye on the warning lights and such?
Basically. the 5% increments are a joy. I have a solar cover. I run 15%-25% in May, 35% in June/July, back down to 25% in Aug etc. I might have to change it once every 2-4 weeks...

I only swim a few days a week. I figured out, that If I take the cover off and swim I boost it to 50% and let it run at 50% until sundown, then back to 35% (or whatever number for the month). FC stays at my target with this method.

You will figure out what works for you given if you have cover/nocover, swimmers everyday, no swimmers.
 
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And once I set the Chlorine PPM target, I shouldn't need to fiddle with this controller much - other than keeping an eye on the warning lights and such?
If you have the PoolMath app, there is a section on Effects of Adding. You can set your SWCG type, then using 2 of the 3 variables you can set the other - pump run Time, percent output of SWCG, output in terms of PPM
 
Thanks. Does the pump need to run the entire time there's sun on the pool?
No, but your FC needs to me high enough in the morning so that your FC never gets out of range by the end of the day. And certainly never below minimums.
Or just the calculated amount of time?
The calculated amount of time
Can the pump run at night?
Yes. Re-read my first response above. Let's say your CYA is 50. Your target is 6-8 and minimum is 4. If you run overnight and in the morning, your FC is 8. Then you have sun and swimmers and your pool uses 4.5 FC during the day, your FC will be 3.5 at the end of the day, below minimums. Not good. You need to produce enough FC during the night so FC is high enough to handle the FC demand during the day and stay within range. Make sense?

Do you know how much FC your pool consumes during the day?
 
No, but your FC needs to me high enough in the morning so that your FC never gets out of range by the end of the day. And certainly never below minimums.

The calculated amount of time

Yes. Re-read my first response above. Let's say your CYA is 50. Your target is 6-8 and minimum is 4. If you run overnight and in the morning, your FC is 8. Then you have sun and swimmers and your pool uses 4.5 FC during the day, your FC will be 3.5 at the end of the day, below minimums. Not good. You need to produce enough FC during the night so FC is high enough to handle the FC demand during the day and stay within range. Make sense?

Do you know how much FC your pool consumes during the day?
Makes sense. I'll need to test with the new device in place.
 
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The RJ45+ will be plumbed in place today. Haven't wired it yet. Now, need to figure out how to start the conversion. Read a couple of posts but not sure if there is an updated guide. I presume the salt needs to be added to pool first while SWG remains off. Also CYA needs to be raised to 70 (60 now). Will plan to maintain chlorine till the SWG is generating at the right level. Also, need a salt test. I have the regular TFPro kit. Do they sell just the salt version?
 
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