Got started, fixed algae overnight

The percentage doesn't matter, you can change the percentage in pool math, effects of adding.

Do NOT get any bleach that is SPLASHLESS, FRAGRANCE, ANY CLOROX BRAND, OR ANYTHING THAT IS 3in1 or 6in1 technology. Just Plain Bleach.

Anything labeled Liquid Chlorine is also super.

Not having a test kit, and the fact that you have algae, and you added 4 gallons and still ended up with "pool store" tested water at .2, go ahead and add a 5ppm a day until your test kit gets here
Need this advice about NOT using Clorox bleach. It’s got other stuff in it that you don’t want in your pool.
 
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I did a variation of this in my previous home pool (see pic)IMG_4666.JPG. It was surrounded by trees and there were a ton of leaves. I built a 4'x8' rectangular leaf catcher that was a life saver. The leaf falling season here tends to get over quickly, so haven't pulled the trigger yet.

Definitely looking at getting the robot.

Figured out the cavitating / basket full / low pool level solution. The skimmer was missing the float valve. Ordered.

Some of my complaints are past problems. I just marvel at the complexity we have to put up with. Thanks for going on the journey with me!
 
I'm in Sacramento area (Folsom)
Tired of my pool guy messing up, started managing pool myself. This is highly irritating, but no one actually uses the pool anymore so managing it is insult to injury, but oh well.
Lurked at the site for many years but took the plunge with the newer site and app. Pool was getting green and it has been raining regularly for the last few days. Did the first test at Leslie's and got the following results:
FC 0.2
TA 37
CYA 146
pH 7.6
CH 309

Removed the chlorine tab floater. Still have the recently installed Remington Solar Shock Cu ionizer (which I plan to keep for a while and see - especially since no one is using pool)
Added 10lb of Leslie's Alkalinity Up. App and Leslie's both recommended 8+lbs. I have now bought a bag of baking soda from Costco for future.
Waited 4 hrs
Added 4 jugs of Costco Chlorox bleach (121oz 7.17% chlorine). App recommended 3.8 jugs.
Ran overnight

This morning pool is clear. All the green is gone!
Now, need to figure out how to drain pool to get CYA down, and get the testing kit.
Got the TFTest Pro kit. Started testing.
pH 8.0. Do I need to drop this to 7.5 for SLAM?
CYA is 120. (In the diluted test, the level was between 50 and 60. Much closer to 50). This is not that far off from Leslie's level at 146, so sounds right. Starting water replacement.
FC 18. It has either gone up, or this is test error (my first TFTest)
CC 0.5
TA 150. Hopefully I did this right.
My logs will show the first test above, the second test also done at Leslie's and then this current one.

Any further tips helpful.
 
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CYA is 120. (In the diluted test, the level was between 50 and 60. Much closer to 50). This is not that far off from Leslie's level at 146, so sounds right. Starting water replacement.
We always round up on CYA - so using 120 as your CYA value base on the dilution method.
Since you will do a water replacement - be sure to read following on different methods to have water replacement.

Don’t made any chemical adjustments until after your water replacement and you perform another test.
Also, test your fill water as that will affect your chemical balance with regard to pH, TA and CH. There is no CYA in tap water and usually very low FC levels.

Once you have done the water replacement and performed a new test then report back here.

If you need to perform a SLAM - follow these instructions - SLAM Process
This process must be followed precisely and plan to follow it from 3-10 days - some pools are shorter, some longer - depending on how well the process is followed and the degree of algae you are starting with.

Good Luck. we got your back!
 
CYA is 120.
With CYA of 120, you could have just exchanged 50% of your water and ended up with 60 CYA.
So, emptied the water and waiting for it to fill up again.
Did you empty the pool? Depending on where you are in CA, you might be ok, but removing the pressure of the water may cause other issues with your pool. Maybe too late now... How are you filling the pool? I would bias toward filling the pool as quickly as possible. If your water table is high, the hydrostatic pressure can cause damage. This is an extreme example, so don't fret, but can you get it filled fairly quickly? Rain is insufficient.
1670646672043.png
 
YA dropped to 100, so a little better but not by much. See logs for other levels. Looks like I'll need to replace a lot more water. Starting that now.
You want to replace 50% of your water to get to CYA of 50. If you do it in increments, it will take more water than 50% because it will remix everytime. You should turn your pump off and follow the no-drain water exchange process. Print it out and follow it to a T.

 
The TDS+temp calculations give me -17.6 and I already have a pool fill line at surface and can drain from bottom of pool using pool pump with a built in drain tap running at 6gpm. Got that started. To do 17500/2=8500 gl, it'll take over 24 hrs.
 

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Take care when draining with the pool pump. You don't want to get distracted (Edit: Or get your drain time calculation wrong) and empty the whole pool. Not just potentially a problem for the pool as shown by PoolStored, but running the pump dry can kill your expensive pump. Usually we recommend using a cheap sump pump for that. By placing the sump pump on a ledge or step of the right height, you can also ensure not to drain too much.
 
+1 to what @mgtfp said. My fill too was about 6gpm. I used a garden hose attached to the sump pump. I put a kink in it and ran it up over a ladder (reduces flow as pump needs to pump higher). I was able to balance it well enough that I only had to check every 4 hours.

24hrs seems about right.
 
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Completed the 24 hr cycle. I was a little bit concerned because I found a bug in my process. While I was draining water from the bottom of the pool, pool bottom water was also being brought to the surface because I was using the pool pump with most of the water recirculating. In any case, results are good. Happened to be going there so got a store test. CYA=58 (phew!), FC=6. CH=162 is now low. TA=92, but that's their adjusted nbr. Planning to do my test after pool water's had a chance to mix tomorrow.

Thanks for the help everyone! Looking forward to the SLAM (or maybe I don't need it because water's clear, there's no algae and the last CC was 0.5 with FC in range).
 
Happened to be going there so got a store test.
No....no, no, no. Stop. Repeat after me: "I will no longer let the pool store test my water." Do it, repeat it. You have an AWESOME test kit that will always give more accurate results than the pool store, particularly CYA.
Luke Grimes No GIF by Yellowstone


After it mixes, perform this test Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

That will tell us if you have organics and need to SLAM. Measure AFTER dark and BEFORE Sunrise for the OCLT.

You got this and we got you.
 
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Thanks for the help everyone! Looking forward to the SLAM (or maybe I don't need it because water's clear, there's no algae and the last CC was 0.5 with FC in range).
There are 3 criteria
Clear Water
CC </= 0.5
Pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

The latter one removes the effect of UV consuming FC - so if you do not pass it - then there is still ALGAE.
With a CYA of 60 - you only need to have FC level at 24ppm. If it were me - I would go 24-48 hours with a SLAM and then test OCLT.
You worked so hard to get to this point, don't take a shortcut.
 
Also, since you were dealing with algae before- even if you pass all 3 end of slam criteria, you will still want to scrub & check all the nooks & crannies to be certain you’re starting fresh & clean.
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, water features, etc.)
 
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No....no, no, no. Stop. Repeat after me: "I will no longer let the pool store test my water." Do it, repeat it. You have an AWESOME test kit that will always give more accurate results than the pool store, particularly CYA.
Luke Grimes No GIF by Yellowstone


After it mixes, perform this test Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

That will tell us if you have organics and need to SLAM. Measure AFTER dark and BEFORE Sunrise for the OCLT.

You got this and we got you.
I AFFIRM: I WILL NO LONGER LET THE POOL STORE TEST MY WATER! :)
That said, I AM curious about how off they really were - considering how tricky the CYA test is for a newbie.
 
Also, since you were dealing with algae before- even if you pass all 3 end of slam criteria, you will still want to scrub & check all the nooks & crannies to be certain you’re starting fresh & clean.
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, water features, etc.)
So, that brings up a question. My cartridge filter is at the point where it needs to be cleaned. Should I clean that before I SLAM or after? I know it's going to have a ton of (hopefully) dead algae. First opportunity I'll have for this will be the weekend.
 
I AFFIRM: I WILL NO LONGER LET THE POOL STORE TEST MY WATER! :)
That said, I AM curious about how off they really were - considering how tricky the CYA test is for a newbie.
Take the same sample of water to three different stores and find out. Or take the same sample of water to the same store at three different times throughout the day.
 
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So, that brings up a question. My cartridge filter is at the point where it needs to be cleaned. Should I clean that before I SLAM or after? I know it's going to have a ton of (hopefully) dead algae. First opportunity I'll have for this will be the weekend.
Go ahead & clean it up- note the clean pressure, then from here on out clean it when pressure increases 25% over clean pressure.
 

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