Glacier Pool Cooler - Help

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Jeff McGuire said:
As i concluded before, there is no provision to seal that completely. Any type of seal you tried to rig in there would impede the wands ability to spin freely. Its just a cheap design.
Previously I made a upside down funnel that i placed on there to push the water out into the cooling pleats but it needs some tweaking. I'll work on my design this weekend and see if i can improve upon it for a viable solution.
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Got it. Thanks for the reply.
 
I have 2 questions.
Can I run my Polaris bot with its own pump while the chiller is on?
And I have the hardest time syncing the input and output valves for the chiller. If they aren't perfect I get air in the pump system blowing out the pool jets and the filter pressure drops to 0 and the system is noisier than normal. The chiller still seems to cool but am I damaging/shortening the life of my main pump?
Thanks for your help.
 
I just bought one of these and am going to install it myself. The instructions say to plumb using 2" pipe but it is reduced down to 1.5" at the cooler. Has anyone just used 1.5" instead of 2"? Also the instructions (existing pool not automated) say I need to have 2 check valves - can they be installed vertically, at an angle or in a horizontal fashion only?
The other question I have is is there any harm in turning off just the fan? I thought if the temp gets too cold (say 80 degrees) why not just have the fan turn off (through an automated smart switch/relay) until it goes back up to your max desired temp then turn on again.
 
I just checked my install and it looks like they reduced it from 2" to 1.5"
The switch on the side of the cooler also controls the pump inside. If you turn that off, water will spill out from the bottom. Unless you turn off the Pool Pump at the same time.

I am having my cooler wired to my IntelliFlo3 so I can turn on and off the cooler and pool pump.
My installer says there are valves I can use to control the water. So also going look into that.


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That depends on how it is wired. The instructions say:
"Run a hot 110 leg to the sump pump direct. This
makes the sump live/hot all the time with the pool pumps power. Run a second 110 leg to
the switch in the box to turn the fan on/off by the switch only. "

They make it sound like you need 2 wires from the breaker when you could just jumper from the pump to the switch. I can see where most electricians would wire power to the switch first (as in your case) with the idea to shut off all power to the unit.

Is that the check valve next to the ball valve on the outlet side?
 
jwelvaert said:
The other question I have is is there any harm in turning off just the fan? I thought if the temp gets too cold (say 80 degrees) why not just have the fan turn off (through an automated smart switch/relay) until it goes back up to your max desired temp then turn on again.
Click to expand...
Technically, you probably could just turn off the fan, but why not just close the valves at the same time and avoid wear and tear on the sump pump? I have mine programmed so that it turns on/off at specific times. When turned on, the actuators open and when off, they close. But they’re not temperature controlled. The Glacier isn’t really conducive to that, as it takes quite awhile to cool off the water and rarely gets so cold that I’d want to shut it off. Instead, it does a very good job of maintaining temp at a comfortable level, but not constant. My water temp can start the day around 80-82° but will only rise to 83-85°. And that’s running the chiller 3am-8pm. The only time I shut mine off during the summer is during extended periods of rain, like we just recently had. Mine has been off since 7/3 (83° was too cold for granddaughter), but turned back on today.
 
jwelvaert said:
That depends on how it is wired. The instructions say:
"Run a hot 110 leg to the sump pump direct. This
makes the sump live/hot all the time with the pool pumps power. Run a second 110 leg to
the switch in the box to turn the fan on/off by the switch only. "

They make it sound like you need 2 wires from the breaker when you could just jumper from the pump to the switch. I can see where most electricians would wire power to the switch first (as in your case) with the idea to shut off all power to the unit.

Is that the check valve next to the ball valve on the outlet side?
Click to expand...

They wired both the pump and fan to the switch on the side of the cooler. So I can turn off the pump and fan and keep the Pool Pump running.
But I guess have the sump pump wired hot should not be an issue since there is a float that controls it.

Yes I think that is a check valve, I have one on the inlet and outlet.
 
jark87 said:
Technically, you probably could just turn off the fan, but why not just close the valves at the same time and avoid wear and tear on the sump pump? I have mine programmed so that it turns on/off at specific times. When turned on, the actuators open and when off, they close.
Click to expand...
That's a good idea, what are you using for actuators?
 

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Interesting. The label says Hayward Goldline GVA-24, but the handle says Jandy Never Lube. And I really only have 1. There’s another one down the line near the chiller, but I don’t think it’s programmed and it just remains open. When originally installed, water was held in the line and it froze during the winter. The valve down by the chiller should have been placed up the line so as to not hold water. When the installer came back to fix it after the break, he just left the original actuator in place and added a new one up the line in the proper location.

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jark87 said:
Interesting. The label says Hayward Goldline GVA-24, but the handle says Jandy Never Lube. And I really only have 1. There’s another one down the line near the chiller, but I don’t think it’s programmed and it just remains open. When originally installed, water was held in the line and it froze during the winter. The valve down by the chiller should have been placed up the line so as to not hold water. When the installer came back to fix it after the break, he just left the original actuator in place and added a new one up the line in the proper location.
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Your valves are Jandy. The actuator on the valve is Hayward. If your return is straight to the pool then you can get away with only 1 valve. If you don't have a dedicated return to your pool like myself you must have one on the return side also. My cooler returns right in front of the pump (as demonstrated in the instructions) so I have a valve there otherwise the pump can pull the water from the cooler. (Glacier told me that water can be pulled through the sump)
 
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Jeff McGuire said:
Your valves are Jandy. The actuator on the valve is Hayward. If your return is straight to the pool then you can get away with only 1 valve. If you don't have a dedicated return to your pool like myself you must have one on the return side also. My cooler returns right in front of the pump (as demonstrated in the instructions) so I have a valve there otherwise the pump can pull the water from the cooler. (Glacier told me that water can be pulled through the sump)
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You are correct! One valve is on the return line. I don’t understand the plumbing at all, but it works.
 
They just finished hooking up my cooler to the pump. But found out that it also will turn off my sump pump.
So I need to look into those actuators so my pool pump won't empty my pool when the cooler is off.
I assume the other 5 amp relay is plenty for one valve for the inlet?


Screenshot_20240709_135140_Pentair Home.jpg
 
jark87 said:
Technically, you probably could just turn off the fan, but why not just close the valves at the same time and avoid wear and tear on the sump pump? I have mine programmed so that it turns on/off at specific times. When turned on, the actuators open and when off, they close. But they’re not temperature controlled. The Glacier isn’t really conducive to that, as it takes quite awhile to cool off the water and rarely gets so cold that I’d want to shut it off. Instead, it does a very good job of maintaining temp at a comfortable level, but not constant. My water temp can start the day around 80-82° but will only rise to 83-85°. And that’s running the chiller 3am-8pm. The only time I shut mine off during the summer is during extended periods of rain, like we just recently had. Mine has been off since 7/3 (83° was too cold for granddaughter), but turned back on today.
Click to expand...
Cost mainly. Instructions say you need 2 and they are 200.00 each. When reading through the instructions to set up automated chiller mode they are basically doing what I am suggesting.
From the instructions:
Run a separate 110V line to the sump pump to make it hot and have power to it from the panel from any 110V relay port. ( The pump float switch turns the pump on and off ). This allows the water to constantly flow and cycle through the system while the cooler is still in chiller mode. ( If there is a variable speed pump, run the RPM’s at HIGH speed in chiller mode ). Last, run the 110V line to the chiller switch from the panel relay for the chiller to run the fan. This will allow the fan to turn on and off at temperature settings programmed during chiller mode.
 
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Does anyone know why you need check valves on a non-automated system but not on an automated system? Aren't the diverter valves the same except one is turned by a handle and the other by a motor? Seems like I should be able to use 3-way diverter valves on my manual system like it shows in the automated instructions.
 

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