Developed green cloudy water. Spent 3 days vacuuming green algae to waste and backwashing. I then double shocked and added algaecide. Then ran filter 24 hours. Woke up this morning to clear water. On testing, chlorine level was obviously very high. PH was a little high. Alkalinity was ok. What I don't know is how to deal with the stabilizer level. Its very low. Do I leave it alone so the chlorine levels drop or should I add stabilizer/cya acid? Will adding stabilizer keep the chlorine level from dropping to where it should be?
Fought off algae now what
- Thread starter Capz65
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,030
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
To address your questions, we would first need to ask some questions ourselves:
1 - Did you actually perform a SLAM Process to kill and remove algae, passing all 3 SLAM criteria?
2 - How are you testing your water, and can you provide a full set of water test results?
Those answers will determine our responses. Thank you.
1 - Did you actually perform a SLAM Process to kill and remove algae, passing all 3 SLAM criteria?
2 - How are you testing your water, and can you provide a full set of water test results?
Those answers will determine our responses. Thank you.
I don't have the right test kit to measure cc and do a proper SLAM process, but it appears what I did worked. The water is clear. I'll test again to give you guys more precise results
Moved from HERE to avoid thread hijack.
I'm as newbish as newbs get when it comes to pool chemistry. But reading through this thread I'm surprised no one mentioned vacuuming the dead algae off the bottom and walls directly to waste. My water went from looking like those pics to crystal clear in 3 days by vacuuming it out, not brushing. Brushing just allows most of it to settle back down. I double shocked it but doesn't that just kill the algae and prevent new growth? The dead stuff is still dissolving in the pool, correct? The difference in my results and the OP seems to be the removal in addition to balancing.
I'm as newbish as newbs get when it comes to pool chemistry. But reading through this thread I'm surprised no one mentioned vacuuming the dead algae off the bottom and walls directly to waste. My water went from looking like those pics to crystal clear in 3 days by vacuuming it out, not brushing. Brushing just allows most of it to settle back down. I double shocked it but doesn't that just kill the algae and prevent new growth? The dead stuff is still dissolving in the pool, correct? The difference in my results and the OP seems to be the removal in addition to balancing.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,030
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Vacuuming to waste is fine when possible but does not kill the algae, nor does a random double-shock application of chlorine. When a pool undergoes an algae bloom, the organic material is not only persistent, but often times more dense than what you see by the naked eye. This is why the SLAM Process, performed with accurate testing from a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit, is so important. Anything else is just a band-aid fix and the algae will most likely return.
I'm just relaying my experience. I'm not educated enough on the subject to say whether it was the shock or algaecide which stopped the growth in it's tracks, but it makes sense to me that vacuuming was just as important. No doubt your method works to return the pool to proper balance and prevent another bloom, but no chemical approach can possibly make dead organisms disappear.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,030
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
We encourage you to review our SLAM Process and Pool Care Basics pages to get a good understanding of TFP processes. Vacuuming plays an important role in the algae removal process, but it never kills the organisms. Adjusting and maintaining the proper chemistry as noted on the SLAM tab of the FC/CYA Levels is what kills the algae spores. Brushing helps to break-up the biofilms covering pool surfaces, and vacuuming removes large debris and dead algae from the floor. It's a combination of factors, but maintaining the proper elevated FC level (based on the current YCA) is the key. Algaecides do not kill algae. They are used as a preventative measure to help prevent them from starting. We typically recommend the use of an algaecide (non-copper like Polyquat 60) for owners at closing or if performing an Ascorbic Acid treatment to remove metal staining.
Then the only explanation for my results is that there are multiple approaches that work. Unless it didn't. My results could be short lived. I'd still like input regarding my original question. How do you deal with water that has super high chlorine level with very low stabilizer level.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,030
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Just let it fall. Water with a very low CYA level (below 30) should see the FC fall fairly quickly as long as no need chlorine is being introduced to the water. If your CYA is at 30 or above, then we refer to the FC/CYA Levels. Find your current CYA and the corresponding FC range. There you will also see a "SLAM" tab. On that SLAM tab, you can safely be in the water up to that SLAM level. For example, you'll see the SLAM FC level of "12" is safe for a pool with a CYA of 30. These are chlorine-to-stabilizer ratios proven to be safe for swimmers, pool surfaces, and equipment.
Ok thank you. I've kept chlorine levels consistent, or so I thought but I ignored stabilizer. Is it accurate to say the chlorine was burning off fast due to low cya and that allowed the algae to thrive?
If you use trichlor for chlorination, it’s more likely that your cya was too high and rendering the chlorine ineffective. It’s also possible for the chlorine to burn off very quickly without enough stabilizer, especially if using liquid chlorine.
What do you consider too high for chlorine?
I really have to read up. I thought a high cya level protected the chlorine, not render it ineffective. When I say high chlorine I mean the darkest color on the tester. Very top, dark purple. I need to get more precise.
Would recommend a test kit that can measure a larger range of chlorine levels. The OTO (yellow shades) only goes up to 5ppm and I think another color comparator version goes up to 10ppm, but neither is very accurate.
Get a Taylor k2006C (amazon) or a TF-100 (tftestkits.net)
Test strips are only good for measuring one thing -- the depth of your trash can.
A good test kit will pay for itself many times over.
Test Kits Compared
OP,
You are getting to a crossroads to chose TFP or just wing it.......both are ok but we can't help you much with just winging it.
TFP relies on precision testing and then understanding what the tests mean and what adjustments you need to make.
Winging it involves mostly stabbing at solutions and sometimes they work. We just are unable to help because we would just be stabbing at the guesses along with you.
I hope you continue to read and learn and get a test kit (K-2006c, TF-100, or TF-Pro) which will be your guiding beacon to a crystal clear pool.
You are getting to a crossroads to chose TFP or just wing it.......both are ok but we can't help you much with just winging it.
TFP relies on precision testing and then understanding what the tests mean and what adjustments you need to make.
Winging it involves mostly stabbing at solutions and sometimes they work. We just are unable to help because we would just be stabbing at the guesses along with you.
I hope you continue to read and learn and get a test kit (K-2006c, TF-100, or TF-Pro) which will be your guiding beacon to a crystal clear pool.
I know it. You're spot on with that post. Early on when I first got the pool, 2 seasons past, I asked everyone I knew who had a crystal clear one, what's your process? And every single person had a different method. Then I came here. I got overwhelmed with it, said I don't want to be a chemist and bailed. It seemed like massive overkill when the old lady down the street uses just household bleach and her pool looks ok. So I winged it like you said with just shock and tabs. And three algae blooms in 3 seasons is no fun. So I got into it here and now I see the method isn't that complicated. Going today to pick up borax, baking soda, stabilizer and a 7 way test kit.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,707
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I would not get all those items -- nor will you likely find a proper test kit at a store.
Pools rarely need borax or baking soda.
Visit TFTestkits.net for a kit. Or look for a K2006C on an online store.
Then I misread the ABC section. Says raise pH with Borax lower with muriatic, which I have. Raise alkalinity with baking soda. Raise CYA with cyanuric acid or stabilizer.