First timer advice/thoughts for AGP

[phonedave]

So, if I followed this, you are now asking what chemicals you need for start up?

You need to add chlorine and CYA to your pool.

You can do this in two ways. You can use dichlor (pucks or granules) that add BOTH Chlorine and CYA. Or you can buy CYA (AKA stabilizer) and bleach separately. I suggest you go with separate, unless you cannot find CYA for some reason.

So you want

1) Bleach - plain unscented, non-thickened (no 'splashless') bleach. or even better if you can get it "pool chlorine" or "liquid chlorine". Pool Chlorine is the same thing as bleach, just a stronger concentration, so you need less.
2) CYA/Stabilizer - This comes in granules, or much harder to find and more expensive is liquid. Granules take a while to dissolve, but just put them in an old sock and hang it it your pool. after a day or so you can just squeeze it around and it will dissolved. Liquid is really not worth the cost.
3) Acid / Baking Soda - you may or may not need one, the other, or both. Acid lowers pH, baking soda raises it. You can use plain muriatic acid from the hardware store, just be careful with it (read the thread on how to handle acid). If you want to, they do sell dry acid at the pool stores. You can use that instead, but be aware it can be a bit harsh on the plates in a SWCG or in a heater.


So that is all you the chemicals you really need for start up. You may end up needing to adjust you calcium hardness, but that is not critical in a vinyl pool.

 

[raysaint]

What about things like Borax? I haven't dug into your articles about all the things I'll need to test and keep an eye on, but will those chemicals be all I need as time moves on?
I have the K-2006 kit coming, hopefully enough reagants for 2 months. Will the kit have instructions or will your articles tell me what to do?
And when would I use your Pool Math page? I'm starting to freak out thinking about how all this works together.
I better get into the beginners articles.

 

[jeffchap]

The test kit comes with printed directions and there are also YouTube videos available: https://youtube.com/user/TF100TestKit

Don't worry, it's easy. If you can squeeze a bottle and count at the same time, you can do it.

PoolMath tells you exactly how much of the various chemicals you need to add to achieve the desired levels. The primary ones you will be concerned with initially will be CYA, free chlorine (FC) and pH. Get those right to begin with and the others can be dealt with later.

Pool Care Basics is the place to begin. Let us know if you need help.

 

[phonedave]

What about things like Borax? I haven't dug into your articles about all the things I'll need to test and keep an eye on, but will those chemicals be all I need as time moves on?
I have the K-2006 kit coming, hopefully enough reagants for 2 months. Will the kit have instructions or will your articles tell me what to do?
And when would I use your Pool Math page? I'm starting to freak out thinking about how all this works together.
I better get into the beginners articles.

In a hot tub you will likely not need borax. Borax raises pH, which is usually not an issue in a hot tub, because the action of the jets mixing air into the water raises pH as well. Most hot tubs have a pH that tends to drift UP and needs to be LOWERED with the addition of acid.

The kit will tell you how to run the tests. Pool Math will tell you how much of what chemical to add in order to get where you need to be, based on your test results and the number of gallons in your tub.

Here is a more detailed list of my "process" for my tub, all tubs are different, but this will give you an idea.

- I purge my tub with Ahh Some, drain it, clean it, and fill with tap water (city water, which in my city is well water from municipal wells that is treated).
- I measure my pH and add acid to get it to 7.4 or so
- I add 1oz of DiChlor (Chlorine granules) - this add 12 ppm of FC to my tub (initial shock) as well as 11 ppm of CYA
- I then test my CL each day, and add enough DiChlor to keep it around 5 ppm. I keep track of how much DiChlor I add, and when I reach a total of 3 oz, then I have 33 ppm of CYA, so I switch to bleach.
- For the first week I test pH and FC daily, and adjust with either DiChlor / Bleach and Acid as necessary. I also check TA. TA acts as a buffer to keep your pH from moving around a lot. I add baking soda to increase TA if necessary
- After 2-3 days I check my CH. I add enough CH increaser to get it to 300 ppm
- Once a week I add a strong ounce (maybe 1.25 ounces) of Aqua Clarity (I also remove and hose out my filter cartages)
- After about 10 days, my pH and TA are pretty stable, at this point I can instead check my FC and pH 4 or 5 times a week, and adjust with bleach or acid if necessary. I check pH and FC if I am going to use the tub, and adjust if necessary. I also add 2oz of bleach after we use the tub (normally 2 people for 20-30 min)

The numbers I shoot for are
FC 4.0 - 5.0
CC 0
TA 60
CYA 30
pH 7.2 - 7.6
CH 300

I change my water every 3 months or so (I try to time it so I change it late in the fall, and then have enough time to get me to spring-ish weather) so I may push it out if we are having a warm fall or a late spring, if the numbers and water look good.

A pH meter is one of the best investments I have made for this hot tub. I spend a lot of time chasing pH for the first week to 10 days after a water change. The ability to take my meter, stick it in the tub, and get a reading to two decimal places is so much nicer than having to add drops to the comparator block, look for good lighting, and then try and determine just what my pH is based on a color.

 

[Mdragger88]

In a hot tub you will likely not need borax. Borax raises pH, which is usually not an issue in a hot tub, because the action of the jets mixing air into the water raises pH as well. Most hot tubs have a pH that tends to drift UP and needs to be LOWERED with the addition of acid.

The kit will tell you how to run the tests. Pool Math will tell you how much of what chemical to add in order to get where you need to be, based on your test results and the number of gallons in your tub.

Here is a more detailed list of my "process" for my tub, all tubs are different, but this will give you an idea.

- I purge my tub with Ahh Some, drain it, clean it, and fill with tap water (city water, which in my city is well water from municipal wells that is treated).
- I measure my pH and add acid to get it to 7.4 or so
- I add 1oz of DiChlor (Chlorine granules) - this add 12 ppm of FC to my tub (initial shock) as well as 11 ppm of CYA
- I then test my CL each day, and add enough DiChlor to keep it around 5 ppm. I keep track of how much DiChlor I add, and when I reach a total of 3 oz, then I have 33 ppm of CYA, so I switch to bleach.
- For the first week I test pH and FC daily, and adjust with either DiChlor / Bleach and Acid as necessary. I also check TA. TA acts as a buffer to keep your pH from moving around a lot. I add baking soda to increase TA if necessary
- After 2-3 days I check my CH. I add enough CH increaser to get it to 300 ppm
- Once a week I add a strong ounce (maybe 1.25 ounces) of Aqua Clarity (I also remove and hose out my filter cartages)
- After about 10 days, my pH and TA are pretty stable, at this point I can instead check my FC and pH 4 or 5 times a week, and adjust with bleach or acid if necessary. I check pH and FC if I am going to use the tub, and adjust if necessary. I also add 2oz of bleach after we use the tub (normally 2 people for 20-30 min)

The numbers I shoot for are
FC 4.0 - 5.0
CC 0
TA 60
CYA 30
pH 7.2 - 7.6
CH 300

I change my water every 3 months or so (I try to time it so I change it late in the fall, and then have enough time to get me to spring-ish weather) so I may push it out if we are having a warm fall or a late spring, if the numbers and water look good.

A pH meter is one of the best investments I have made for this hot tub. I spend a lot of time chasing pH for the first week to 10 days after a water change. The ability to take my meter, stick it in the tub, and get a reading to two decimal places is so much nicer than having to add drops to the comparator block, look for good lighting, and then try and determine just what my pH is based on a color.

The op has a new above ground pool - not a hot tub

 

[Mdragger88]

What about things like Borax? I haven't dug into your articles about all the things I'll need to test and keep an eye on, but will those chemicals be all I need as time moves on?
I have the K-2006 kit coming, hopefully enough reagants for 2 months. Will the kit have instructions or will your articles tell me what to do?
And when would I use your Pool Math page? I'm starting to freak out thinking about how all this works together.
I better get into the beginners articles.

Don’t worry,
when the kit comes in just do all the tests 1 at a time & record the results.
U can post them here for guidance if you need to.
If your pool is filled before it comes u can just add 5ppm of liquid chlorine/bleach to the water daily slowly infront of a return, brush the area well. PoolMath will tell u how much to use based on your pool volume (about 12k gallons) & chlorine strength.

You won’t have any cya in a fresh fill so you will need to add 20ppm (2lbs according to poolmath) of dry stabilizer/cya to a sock ,
tie a knot in it, & hang it infront of a running return, not touching the pool wall, squeeze the sock occasionally until it dissolves.
It is doubtful u will need borax. If u happen to need it at some point, it’s easily available at the grocery/ big box store as is most everything else on your list. Your wife may have some in the laundry cabinet.

Your shopping list is as follows :

*Liquid chlorine/pool chlorinating liquid/ liquid pool shock/bleach
(Sodium hypochlorite) available at canadian tire & various big box/hardware/ Walmart stores in the pool section.
Get several gallons.

*Dry stabilizer/cya
(ingredients 100% cyanuric acid) available at most big box/hardware/Walmart stores in the pool area
A 4 or 5 lb bag should be plenty for now

*Muriatic acid - available at most big box/hardware stores in the pool area
1 gallon should be plenty to have on hand

*Baking soda - available at most big box/hardware/Walmart stores in the pool area & grocery stores
A few #’s is plenty to have on hand

 

[phonedave]

The op has a new above ground pool - not a hot tub

No idea how I switched over to hot tub mode in my head.

 

[Mdragger88]

No idea how I switched over to hot tub mode in my head.

Too many threads on deck lol

 

[raysaint]

My parents have an AGP so I wrote down the main chemicals they buy from the pool store. Tell me if these are what you have said I need. (I'll be using liquid chlorine, they use granular/pucks.) List below is everything other than standard chlorine.
Power Chlor - stabilized chlorine that kills bacteria and controls unsightly algae.
Smart Shock or Burnout, granular - for shocking
Banish - for algae (copper sulphate)
Stabilizer 100, granular
Lo n Slo - granular PH decreaser
Balance PAK 300 - raises calcium hardness
And some type of clarifier
Also, they use a skimmer sock (seems a good idea), and have shutoffs on the pump/filter lines.

 

[Mdragger88]

My parents have an AGP so I wrote down the main chemicals they buy from the pool store. Tell me if these are what you have said I need. (I'll be using liquid chlorine, they use granular/pucks .) List below is everything other than standard chlorine.
Power Chlor - stabilized chlorine that kills bacteria and controls unsightly algae.
Smart Shock or Burnout, granular - for shocking
Banish - for algae (copper sulphate)
Stabilizer 100, granular
Lo n Slo - granular PH decreaser Muriatic Acid is best & cheaper
Balance PAK 300 - raises calcium hardness Most vinyl pools don’t really need to add ch unless they have a heater.
And some type of clarifier
Also, they use a skimmer sock (seems a good idea), and have shutoffs on the pump/filter lines.

Recommended Pool Chemicals

There are thousands of different pool chemicals companies attempt to sell you. These pool chemicals are cheap, easy to find, and have little side effects.

www.google.com

Non-Recommended Pool Chemicals

These pool chemicals should not be added to your pool. While stores may try to sell you these products we share why you should avoid each of them.

www.google.com

 

[Mdragger88]

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.

www.google.com

 

[raysaint]

What about shock?

 

[nwardoh]

Wife wants an AGP, been reading a lot on forums/websites, research galore.
The link is what we settled on. 15' x 30' oval. I've only put a deposit so far.

Aqua Leader Synergy Above Ground Swimming Pools

The Synergy swimming pool combines ultra-durability and modern lines to provide a sleek and stylish pool design. This pool’s resin components are made with the latest injection molding technology, providing superior durability. The colour of the resin components is solid all the way through...

www.pioneerfamilypools.ca

I'm going to change or swap out a couple things (filter from sand to cartridge, etc.) and the retailer offers a promo package: purifier, auto chlorinator, winter cover, cleaner, ladder) and I'm adding foam cove and a liner pad.
Here in Ontario, just east of Toronto, gets pretty cold.
Installer quoted about 10K for a good install.
So overall, I'd love to hear any comments/thoughts, suggestions, concerns, experience.
Or ask me any questions.
Things like this make me anxious.
Thanks.

Having just put up a 15x30 I will say this. If you have room for a 24' round, or larger, you will get a bigger pool for less money and infinitely easier to install. Oval pools are a serious PITA to install and I would guess install would be much less with a round pool. -didn't realize this was such an old thread lol

 

[Mdragger88]

What about shock?

Are u referring to a specific product?
If so - not recommended on a regular basis.
Cal hypo, trichlor, & dichlor all add more than fc to the water. The fc gets depleted daily but the calcium or cya they add remains until water is exchanged . Trichlor & dichlor are also acidic so they mess with multiple parameters fc,cya,ph, & ta.

If u are referring to the shock process (the act of raising fc to shock/slam level for your cya FC/CYA Levels)
that can be achieved with liquid chlorine which only raises fc.

 

[raysaint]

Having just put up a 15x30 I will say this. If you have room for a 24' round, or larger, you will get a bigger pool for less money and infinitely easier to install. Oval pools are a serious PITA to install and I would guess install would be much less with a round pool. -didn't realize this was such an old thread lol

Thread isn't that old, in terms of my progress. Pool purchase & setup has been in the works for months. First installer screwed us, decided not to do it, then finding another independant installer is not easy where I am.

 

[raysaint]

Been very busy, haven't read all that I should, but I will. Read a bit on here, and a bit of the Taylor test manual. But I'm trying to get a quick overview of what I need, and what I'm to do. Pool goes in this week.
Chemicals I'm after: liquid chlorine (got a big jug from pool store)
Cyanuric liquid: will order a jug (called Instant Conditioner, says it's actually a salt of some kind, & quicker than cyanuric)
Muriatic: Easy enough to find
Baking soda: hard to find the big bags, may do boxes, however, can someone explain how PH and alkalinity work. Some things I read say you need 2 separate products, one to raise Ph, one to raise alkalinity, ) soda doesn't do it all); is that accurate? (do I need soda ash?)

 

[nwardoh]

You will need many jugs of liquid chlorine. You probably won't need baking soda unless you screw up with the acid. Baking soda also raises total alkalinity. If you want to raise your PH without raising total alkalinity you want to aerate. Do you know what the total alkalinity of your fill water is? From what I see it is typically quite high. Ours, for instance, started out at 200. It has been 6 weeks and I have only made it down to 130 which took a little more than a gallon of muriatic acid over that time. Still have a ways to go. I never take my PH below 7 so never have to use soda to raise it.

On that liquid conditioner. A gallon will only raise a 10k gallon pool from 0-32 so it may take quite a bit more. I would make sure it isn't going to screw with your other chemistry before dumping it in. Most of the "convenient" things with pool chemistry seem to almost all have side effects that are a pain in the butt.

 

[raysaint]

Store sent the wrong filter, does it matter? Didn't realize, (they should have checked) but the filter on my sales order, the Hayward Xstream CC200CAN, listed on their site as AGP filter only. The filter I got, and is now all plumbed in, is a Swimclear C200S, made for inground. My pool is about 13K gallons.
MY Question: did I luck out and get a better filter, or should I get the store to rectify this (which would be a pain.) They both do the same job, but does it need to be specific to above vs inground, and is my 2-speed pump (on low speed) enough to work with the Swimclear? Links below show each filter and specs.

XStream | Hayward Canada

For above-ground pools, XStream cartridge filter systems provide a massive filter body for added capacity of dirt and debris and longer, more efficient filtering cycles.

www.hayward-pool.ca

SwimClear Single Element | Hayward Canada

For both new pool and aftermarket installations SwimClear™ single element cartridge filters are the industry’s most efficient and easiest to service single element cartridge filters providing best-in-class filtration performance.

www.hayward-pool.ca

 

[nwardoh]

For your test kit, get a 2 ounce bottle of Taylor Cyanuric Acid R-0013-C. The one that comes in the 2006 is way too small

 

[raysaint]

For your test kit, get a 2 ounce bottle of Taylor Cyanuric Acid R-0013-C. The one that comes in the 2006 is way too small

I'll try. The distributor doesn't want to sell retail to customers, but they have no stores or online stores that sell this kit. I suppose Amazon but I hear they sell old product sometimes. I'm in Canada so nothing is easy.