First-time homeowner with a pool. Water was green. Started the process, but lost.

Yes, but. You need to find bleach that is NOT clorox (chloromax technology has polymers), doesn't have fragrance, is NOT splashless, no softeners, no blue...no nothing.

Do you have a walmart around? This is about the best price around for LC...
Noted. I do have a Wal-mart nearby. I wouldn’t be thrilled about returning for the second time today, but would if needed. Are you saying that liquid chlorine is absolutely the route to go? I do have quite a few 1lb bags of shock remaining. Would those suffice in lieu of liquid to get me through until the test kit arrives?
 
Tomato, Tomaaato. If your CYA truly is as high as 80, using dichlor or trichlor will add to your problem with CYA. Probably ok as you will likely need to replace water anyway. If you are using Cal-Hypo and have been, go ahead and use it. Can you post a pic of the bag ingredients? or type brand/product name.
 
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Would those suffice in lieu of liquid to get me through until the test kit arrives?

First things first. Breathe. Relax. It's ok. Nothing is super urgent, the pool isn't going to fix itself in an hour, or get horribly worse in a day or two.

K. Better ? Good. :)

These guys are the real deal - honestly. If you take a little while, read up on the Pool Care Basics, and specifically the SLAM process, you'll be ready to 'fix' your pool once and for all.
All the questions are simply so they can figure out the easiest, cheapest and most effective way to turn your mean green into cool blue.

Depending on WHAT those 'packets' are, depends on whether you should add them. If they contain 'sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione' or 'sodium trichloro-s-triazinetrione", then those will add to the stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid, or CYA) and that usually makes fixing the problem harder...
If they contain Calcium Hypochlorite (commonly called Cal-Hypo) - then that is better, but also adds to your calcium hardness - which is probably less of an issue, but why add stuff you don't need ?

Bleach is Sodium Hypochlorite - basically Chlorine + Salt + Water. Thats why it's preffered, as it adds very little that can HURT your pool, while working to sanitize it at the same time.
Not all Bleach is created equal. Basic, 6% or 10% bleach is fine, as long as it has NO fancy stuff in it (the cheaper the better usually). Walmart, Lowes, HomeDepot or Menards usually sell 'Liquid Chlorinator' which is usually 10% or 12% bleach.

The Test Kit once it arrives will allow you to measure just how much you have of all these things in the pool, so you then only need to add what is needed. Pool Stores exist to sell you expensive remedies, usually to problems they create with their expensive remedies. Trust in the process...it works, and once you understand how to do it yourself, you'll never look back.

Congrats on the new house, and the new pool, and stick with us, follow the advice, and you'll have a crystal clear oasis of joy in no time flat.

Speaking of which, I'm head out for a swim :)
 
Thanks for the words of wisdom. I’m definitely a bit overwhelmed, but glad to know I’m on the right track. Here is the shock treatment I’m using. Looks like it isn’t Dichloro or Trichloro. Pool is definitely clearer than this morning, to be on the bright side. I did, however, just see on Google that the acceptable range of CYA for a salt pool is 60-80ppm, which makes me wonder if it is even high to begin with (if the pool store’s test is correct). I’ll hold off on further questions until the test kit is here and I’m able to use it.

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Given we are likely going to drain, ok to use 1 bag a day to add 5ppm FC until your test kit arrives.

Did you happen to buy a smart stir? Might consider it, makes testing super easy, repeatable and accurate.
 
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Given we are likely going to drain, ok to use 1 bag a day to add 5ppm FC until your test kit arrives.

Did you happen to buy a smart stir? Might consider it, makes testing super easy, repeatable and accurate.
I didn’t buy a smart stir. I really need to minimize spending. I know this is not a cheap hobby, but I have to keep this budgeted as tight as I can. I still have to floor/paint 1200 sq ft of this house in the next few weeks.
 
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Latest: The pool is looking very good this morning. Alkalinity and pH much closer to acceptable, according to the cheap test strips. Will confirm when Taylor kit arrives, but very impressed with the progress here.
 

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I didn’t buy a smart stir. I really need to minimize spending. I know this is not a cheap hobby, but I have to keep this budgeted as tight as I can. I still have to floor/paint 1200 sq ft of this house in the next few weeks.
Neither is owning a house. Focus on what's important and immediate. Your home is more important than your pool. What good is a pool if you don't have a roof over your head. I'll also be 90% correct that your significant other would rather a beautiful home first and foremost than beautiful water. Pick your battle. 1200sqft isn't that much. Find a good paint store and you'll probably be able to get a contractor discount of say 10%. Depending on the type of flooring, easily done for ~$5k or less if you DIY and minimal tools. If you have a cop saw, hammer and knee pads, you're good to go if floating floor with underlayment is what you want, otherwise, glue/nails and a nailer. Maybe peel and stick, or tile. Endless possibilities.

Keeping a pool chlorinated until you get your test kit and then finding out that you may have to drain water due to high cya and regardless then go through a slam process. You'll be spending quite a bit of money that would be better off spent making this new home yours.

IMO but this is a pool forum...
 
In response to your feeling that you can’t focus (time or money) on the pool right now, I would focus on your salt water generator. If it’s working, you could run that and not have to buy chlorine. That would save you time travel to the store to get it and money from having to purchase the chlorine. It would not solve all your problems, but you could set that to a high setting and run your pump, generating enough chlorine to allow you to put the pool on hold and not have a green monster. I’m not suggesting this would get your pool in swimming condition, but you could focus on other things until you’re ready to deal with the pool.

Another thing I would do is try to verify the water capacity of your pool. You said the pool store told you it was 18,000 gallons. Verifying that will help when you start to put chemicals in your pool.

FWIW, I would find a way to get the speed stir. When you get your kit, you’ll see how tedious it is to do the tests by hand. It’s certainly possible, but a pain for sure. Especially when you get to the point when you’ll SLAM your pool.

Stick with it and follow the advice for this group and you’ll be in good shape as soon as you’re in a position to gI’ve this some time. Good luck.

There’s a tool at the bottom of the pool math calculator that will help you verify your pool volume.

 
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