First-time homeowner with a pool. Water was green. Started the process, but lost.

[Aaronbagby]

I was sent here by a redditor, and this definitely seems like the place I should be. I bought a house that came with an 18x33 above-ground pool. It was nice and clear when we inspected, and since then has turned green. I took a sample and went to a local pool store (readings attached), which was informational enough to justify the cost of shock/etc for me as an absolute beginner. However, I’m already lost, and already not wanting to get sucked into more expensive pool-store products. Hoping I can leave here enlightened as to exactly what I have, and how to use it all going forward using the PoolMath app. I’ve attached photos of the progress with the pool (and what items I have in inventory for maintenance), and outlined the exact steps taken so far in cleaning. Thanks in advance.

Day 1: Scrubbed every surface with brush, cleaned skimmer, backwashed the sand filter. Shocked with 4 lbs TurboShock at dusk.

Day 2 (Today): Green is gone, now cloudy. Hooked up hose to waste port, vacuumed to waste. Backwashed/rinsed filter again. Used test strips found in garage, found pH and alkalinity to both be low.

Questions so far: Is this pool considered to be a salt pool or a chlorine pool? I have pool salt, but also chlorine products. How do proceed chemically (what is the ideal pH increaser) as well as how to get my pool/readings configured to use PoolMath app?

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Trash those test strips and get a good test kit. The TFPro Salt TF-Pro Salt or Taylor K-2006C + K1766 Kits. You cannot do much until you have the tests.

Load up on Liquid Chlorine. Probably 12-16 gallons to start. Find the least expensive source locally.

Liquid Chlorine - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Pour 5ppm, about 1 gallon, of 10% liquid chlorine in daily until you get your test kit.

Once you get your test kit post a full set of tests here.

You will need to follow the SLAM Process using your test kit and Liquid Chlorine.

Don’t add any other chemicals to your pool until you have your test kit.

Post pics of your equipment pad so we can see what you are working with.

While waiting read…

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! We can (and will) help!

 

[Aaronbagby]

Welcome to TFP.

Trash those test strips and get a good test kit. The TFPro Salt TF-Pro Salt or Taylor K-2006C + K1766 Kits. You cannot do much until you have the tests.

Load up on Liquid Chlorine. Probably 12-16 gallons to start. Find the least expensive source locally.

Liquid Chlorine - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Pour 5ppm, about 1 gallon, of 10% liquid chlorine in daily until you get your test kit.

Once you get your test kit post a full set of tests here.

You will need to follow the SLAM Process using your test kit and Liquid Chlorine.

Don’t add any other chemicals to your pool until you have your test kit.

Post pics of your equipment pad so we can see what you are working with.

While waiting read…

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks for the info.

I posted a picture of my filter as well as the available chemicals. Not sure what other equipment you’d like to see a picture of.

 

[woodyp]

Do you have salt water generator installed? Previous owner may have just added some for the "feel".

 

[Aaronbagby]

Welcome to TFP.

Trash those test strips and get a good test kit. The TFPro Salt TF-Pro Salt or Taylor K-2006C + K1766 Kits. You cannot do much until you have the tests.

Load up on Liquid Chlorine. Probably 12-16 gallons to start. Find the least expensive source locally.

Liquid Chlorine - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Pour 5ppm, about 1 gallon, of 10% liquid chlorine in daily until you get your test kit.

Once you get your test kit post a full set of tests here.

You will need to follow the SLAM Process using your test kit and Liquid Chlorine.

Don’t add any other chemicals to your pool until you have your test kit.

Post pics of your equipment pad so we can see what you are working with.

While waiting read…

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Also, would you say the K2006 is good enough? The C designation seems to be more commercial.

 

[ajw22]

Thanks for the info.

I posted a picture of my filter as well as the available chemicals. Not sure what other equipment you’d like to see a picture of.

You just posted a picture of the MPV.

Pump, filter, pipes, valves, electrical …. Everything connected to your pool.

 

[ajw22]

Also, would you say the K2006 is good enough? The C designation seems to be more commercial.

The C model has larger bottles of reagents. Without the C you will be buying refills quickly and it will cost you more.

Test Kits Compared

 

[Newdude]

Also, would you say the K2006 is good enough?

The bottles are small so you'll run out that much sooner. The K2006C is the better long term value. But it has more than you'll need of the CH and TA that won't be tested as often, for a waste.

The TF100 from tftestkits.net is the budget kit that has the right balance.

The tfpro has thay same balance plus a nice case and a $48 stirring device that we reccomend adding to any of the other kits.

Either of the TF kits have a slam option for newbs and those with swamps who will be testing FC alot more than usual.

Either of the TF kits can be upgraded with a $30 salt kit for $20 more, saving another $10.

They seem more in the short term but they're really the best deal any way you slice it.

 

[Aaronbagby]

Here is everything I see out there. The clear sight glass in the second photo is definitely shown in the photo attached of the salt generator, but it is not attached to that on my pool. I will have to look in a bit when I am back home from running errands.

Also, here’s the latest test results from a local store. I was going to add baking soda to raise alkalinity and see if that brings clarity up.

 

[Texas Splash]

I did my best to update your signature for you. I didn't have your pool size (gallons) though, but it's a start. When you get your test kit we can add that as well.

 

[Aaronbagby]

I did my best to update your signature for you. I didn't have your pool size (gallons) though, but it's a start. When you get your test kit we can add that as well.

Thanks. According to the pool store, it’s an 18,000 gallon pool.

And, for what it’s worth, the clear sight glass is not attached to anything at all. The connector on it doesn’t go anywhere. What purpose is it serving? Does this mean my pool is strictly chlorine?

 

[PoolStored]

I was going to add baking soda to raise alkalinity and see if that brings clarity up.

Don't add anything but chlorine until you get your test kit...

 

[duraleigh]

One of the principles of TFP is don't toss things into your pool when you don't know the outcome.

 

[Aaronbagby]

One of the principles of TFP is don't toss things into your pool when you don't know the outcome.

Understood. However, I’m going to be honest and say that it is unlikely that I’ll buy a $130 test kit anytime immediately soon. I just moved in, and will be spending a lot of money on other aspects of the house that have to take priority. I added baking soda at the instruction of the person at the store because it was a very cheap way to raise the alkalinity, which tested extremely low twice. If not having the test kit is going to stand in the way of getting further advice here, I can understand that, and will stick to the accepted protocol for this forum going forward. I just wanted to get the pool in an acceptable state prior to starting the mountain of work ahead, so I could at least enjoy it when I inevitably overheat.

 

[PoolStored]

So, I too was a skeptic when I arrived. Now I'm a guide...hoodathunk. The pool store testing is prima facia wrong. Ask me why I am "PoolStored." They took me for $1500 in the first month! It is chemically difficult, if not impossible to have a pH in the 6s and a TA of 18. I can guarantee that you will save more money in pool potions than the cost of a good test kit in the first year. If your CYA is that high, the best route is to replace water. With CYA that high, it is near impossible to maintain FC high enough to sanitize the pool. The only way to reduce CYA is to exchange water. Without doing this, you will fight the cloudy the rest of the year. You will also need to do this so that you can properly sanitize the pool. In the condition it is in, your pool is not safe to swim.

The cheapest and the shortest route to a clean, clear and safe pool is to start with a test kit. I promise you it will save you time, money and hassle.

Really,
1) get a test kit...Link-->Test Kits Compared
2) add 5ppm of liquid chlorine per day until the test kit arrrives.
3) read up on "No Drain Water Exchange" in this article...you likely need to replace 50% of your water.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

4) When we get that sqared away, then follow this process and your pool will clear. Link-->SLAM Process

Proof...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[Aaronbagby]

So, I too was a skeptic when I arrived. Now I'm a guide...hoodathunk. The pool store testing is prima facia wrong. Ask me why I am "PoolStored." They took me for $1500 in the first month! It is chemically difficult, if not impossible to have a pH in the 6s and a TA of 18. I can guarantee that you will save more money in pool potions than the cost of a good test kit in the first year. If your CYA is that high, the best route is to replace water. With CYA that high, it is near impossible to maintain FC high enough to sanitize the pool. The only way to reduce CYA is to exchange water. Without doing this, you will fight the cloudy the rest of the year. You will also need to do this so that you can properly sanitize the pool. In the condition it is in, your pool is not safe to swim.

The cheapest and the shortest route to a clean, clear and safe pool is to start with a test kit. I promise you it will save you time, money and hassle.

Really,
1) get a test kit...Link-->Test Kits Compared
2) add 5ppm of liquid chlorine per day until the test kit arrrives.
3) read up on "No Drain Water Exchange" in this article...you likely need to replace 50% of your water.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

4) When we get that sqared away, then follow this process and your pool will clear. Link-->SLAM Process

Proof...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

OK, copy that. I went ahead and ordered the K2006C kit. Regarding everything you’ve seen, including the photos of my hardware, would you say that it seems wrong that the pool store labeled my system as a salt chlorinator?

 

[PoolStored]

No, you have a salt chlorinating cell...seems you don't have the controller. Likely they had it right for some point in the past. Do you see the controller around anywhere?

Put 5ppm of liquid chlorine in your pool PER DAY until your test kit arrives.

 

[Aaronbagby]

No, you have a salt chlorinating cell...seems you don't have the controller. Likely they had it right for some point in the past. Do you see the controller around anywhere?

Put 5ppm of liquid chlorine in your pool PER DAY until your test kit arrives.

Thanks. I can’t make it all the way back to that store, nor do I want to pay their prices. Is househould bleach acceptable (2 gal of 6%)?

 

[PoolStored]

Is househould bleach acceptable (2 gal of 6%)?

Yes, but. You need to find bleach that is NOT clorox (chloromax technology has polymers), doesn't have fragrance, is NOT splashless, no softeners, no blue...no nothing.

Do you have a walmart around? This is about the best price around for LC...

Robot or human?