I am using the meter. I can test 10 times in 10 minutes and get the same reading, so I feel like its right... might need a calibration to which the instructions are horrible on that haha

although im watching youtube vids on it

I added quite a bit of acid yesterday actually because my ph was up to 8.2
First added .1oz, then shortly after added .5oz. and because my TA was still too high I wanted to drop the PH down to 7-7.2 so I added an additional 2 oz later. So the drop isnt unexpected from that standpoint.
My guess is the reason its remained low is because I have had no aeration on it for over a day now. My 8 hours of filter time per day ran with no aeration today, because I think 8 hours WITH aeration the previous day is what spiked it to 8.2.
SOOO i think half open aeration after tonights soak may be the way to go to get it to stabilize around 7.6
Ah, acid makes sense. I didn't see you added any. The pH will not really rise without aeration, or it will but very, very slow.
To answer your previous question about how long it takes aeration to raise pH, for me it was about 1/2 hour of aeration to get full pH rise. By full, I mean my Taylor test, which maxes out at 8, was maxed out. My inflatable tub
really kicks out the bubbles though, huge, large numbers of bubbles. I'm not sure what a "real" hot tub will take. But will full aeration, I'm guessing it'll be around this 1/2 hour mark to go from 7.0 to 8.0.
I'm going to outline my entire TA/pH balance process. I've got this down to the point I can do it in a few hours now and the pH will be rock solid from then out, except when I add dichlor to start or maintain my CYA level (dichlor is acidic and will drop the pH). My water comes out of the tap at a TA/pH of 250/7.4. I'll aerate (each time I say this it means for 30 minutes) and the pH will be 8+ at the end. I'll add acid to
target a pH of 7 with a current pH of 8 based on PoolMath and immediately aerate. I don't measure the low pH, because I don't care. After aeration I measure TA/pH. Might now be 210/8+. I add same amount of acid as before, aerate, measure. May be at 170/8+. Add acid, aerate, test. 130/8+. Almost to 100, so I do it once more. Acid, aerate, test. 90/8+.
Now that I broke 100 I slow down! I've overshot (well, undershot is the more accurate term) a few times by jumping the gun at this point, so I now use the ~100 ppm TA mark as my
slow down sign!
I switch gears having crossed the 100 ppm TA mark. I now target a pH of 7.4 when I add acid. Aerate, test, acid as before, but only test pH. Ignore the TA. With just a couple cycles at this point eventually when you test pH after your 30 minute aeration session you'll find it's no longer 8+, but somewhere between 7.4-7.8. If so, you can leave it here. Run one more aeration cycle and depending how close you were to the 7.8 mark, you may or may not have to add just a
tad of acid. If you are at 7.9-8.0 (instead of 8+) target 7.5-7.6 on PoolMath instead of 7.4. Once you get the pH stable take a TA test for reference.
That's it! Balanced water! I'd check the pH every day the next two days, then maybe every other day for a week, after that feel free to test once a week if your tests show it being solid. Just don't do what I did! My pH got below 7 once cause I stabilized it at 7.4, it never budged, so eventually I pretty much stopped testing pH. I was reminded by a post here that dichlor is acidic, and checked my pH. As I had added some to bring my CYA back up to 30, my pH had dropped below 7 (low end of the Taylor kit). I brought it back up with washing soda (homemade, baking soda and aeration does the exact same thing). Now I check the pH after adding dichlor, or about once a week if no dichlor just so I don't forget to check it. The PoolMath phone app I just started using is great for this because you see how many days since you did a particular test.
So overall, lots of little changes (the PH still makes me wonder) but nothing thats causing massive clouding, or smells etc. Its just a LOT LOT LOT of work to maintain. Its going to cost me 100$ in tf100 reagents per month at this rate..
Hopefully my post helps you with pH. As to the work, it gets easier. For me, after three fills (so far), I test FC/CC/pH/TA/CH on a new fill. I'll do a bunch of pH/TA tests (7ish) to balance the water, a few more pH tests when I add borates since I use borax and acid, then a TA measurement when everything is balanced. Now I pretty much don't ever care about CH or TA again. Now it's FC, at least once before use, maybe a few hours after. Definitely the next day (as it seems to take 8-12 hours to really oxidize all the waste off). If the spa hasn't been used for a day or two, I may go every other or every third day testing. I typically only check CC once a week or so, or if it starts smelling "like chlorine" (10 ppm of FC and 0 CC has NO smell, but 1 ppm of CC and kick on the aeration and you can tell!). pH as I mentioned before typically only weekly, or if I add dichlor. CYA twice every 3-4 weeks, once to check level, then to verify new level after adding CYA.
To summarize that, it boils down to FC every day (or two, depending on use and test history), CC once or twice a week, pH once a week, CYA every 3 weeks. TA/CH really aren't needed to be tested in a fiberglass spa after initial balance. Really you'll run out of DPD powder and the reagent way before anything else, but you can buy those separately. You'll end up throwing out the TA/CH/pH bottles with them almost full because they expired! (well, until you get that pool, that is...)