Ok... so after not checking numbers for almost 18 days. (FC i did check regularly) the results are in.
I have a tub that has found its groove.
PH - 7.7
FC - 2
CC - .5
CYA - 30
Salt - 2200
TA - 70
Havent added any chlorine in 4 days (since the SWG was replaced). Its down a little bit from the other night, but thats to be expected.
2 nights ago it was 3.5 and Ive soaked 2 times (each 45 mins) since then and its still 2. So I feel pretty good about it working. Before the SWG replacement Id have had to add 3-4 oz of chlorine in that time.
All the other numbers look solid. Really really excited that this thing has become so stable. Thats a lot of thanks to everyone on this board who has helped.
A big thank you
Seems a little high to me but what the heck do I know and it's also based on you current pricing. Curious why you have it on a separate meter though? Usually there are minimums and they charge just for a second meter etc which would make the bill seem excessively high.
WEll, there is a 10$ charge for monthly minimum service, which is fine. My other 200amp service is 100% full. I had a 50amp circuit run for my car charger a coupld years back... So all new (pool, hot tub, exterior work) is going on the new circuit.
It does seem high, but the tub is used almost daily, and the pumps run for 8 hours because its a SWG... oh well,
So I just ran my weekly tests again and PH was at 8. It was also at 8 a couple days ago and I added half oz or so of PH down. So it rose again. Is there anything in particular that could be causing this?
I just added .5 again and tested and its back to 7.6.
Now the tub has seen increased use in the last week, with increased bather load, so that means a lot of aeration. (seeing a lot more bubbles/foam too).
Could it rise that much consistently with slightly more use?
It had been stable for about a month prior to that (I figured out that Pump 1 running aeration at about 15% was just enough bubbles to keep it at 7.6 during its 8 hours of run time each day).
Todays numbers are
PH - 8.0
FC - 1.5
CC - 1.5 (im going to shock it to 12 tonight, which is another ??? How long would it take to come back in to bather range? )
CYA - 30
Sal - 2600ppm
TA - 80
Calc - 200
EDIT : this is the next day and PH is back up to 8-8.1 again. something super goofy is going on. It did just finish a 4 hour filter run with VERY minor aeration component to it, but the water had no signs of air in it (hard to explain but i think you know what i mean).
Edit :2 So I am doing the method from Nitros post to bring it down to 7.0 repeatedly to get it to stabilize. However poolmath tells me i need .5 oz of Dry acid to get to 7.0 from 8.0 and ive added .5 oz and its only gotten to 7.5. Pretty far off on that calc, or something else is goofy.
Holy cow... I am still working at it today (ive been interrupted a lot). but I bet ive added 2-3 oz total of PH down to lower it, then raise it etc trying to get it to max out at 7.6. I think im nearly there.. TA is around 65 last check, so maybe 55-60 now.. either way if im stable there, im happy...
Good to know...im probably spending 25$ just running pumps non stop to get this TA in the right spot haha... more more more more... but once i get it there im sure ill be happy about it.
Ok, been running the pumps etc about an hour now and its bouncing between 7.6 and 7.7 , im going to call that good.
One more question.. on the TA test, it says when it turns red... does that mean when it goes from its green/clear to pink (thats the most impactful change) or from pink to dark red which is 1 drop essentially?
difference between 50-60 for me.
On the TA test, it will (should) go from the initial green to an almost dark lavender-red kind of color before finally reaching a lighter-bright Barbie pink. It's that Barbie pink you are looking for. Pool School - Total Alkalinity
ALL drop-based tests have the same end point regardless of blue, clear, yellow pink, striped or polka dot ......that end point is when the last drop you make produces no FURTHER color change......then subtract that last drop and that is your result....easy peasy
OK, dura that was the answer I was going for.... The no further color change, then back off a drop... thats perfect and repeatable.. got it.
So last night i had about 10 people (off and on) in the tub for about 3 hours... so of course there was no chlorine when the night was over. I shocked to 12 before heading off to sleep, woke up to 3-4 or so, and the tub was actually in pretty good shape .
Used it with the wife and kids tonight, so had to add some more chlorine. Since im headed out for a couple days on business, i went ahead and shocked it again. Its had heavy use. Now of course my PH readings are higher than normal, so I gotta wait.
Either way I think I have a good strategy for PH/TA going forward.
Its now my conclusion after owning this tub for a few months that the SWG is basically worthless Obviously having softer skin is a nice benefit, but im not certain at least mine (prozone unit, fairly common) is doing much of anything.
If I have to add 3-4 oz of chlorine after each time I use it than I dont see a benefit. I thought they were supposed to cut down on the amount you need to use. I am running pumps 8 hours a day so production should be fine.
Ive been told by the manufacturer not to run the pumps more than 8 hours a day. well, 4 hours at a time, and I can only set 2 schedules. so Im kinda maxed out.
Unit says it can do up to 1000 gallon spa (mine is 450)
4grams/hr max. so at most 32 grams a day. (im not sure how that compares, or what others do).
If you wouldnt mind JZA, would you run through a typical daily use scenario?
3ppm when I enter the spa, 2 people for 1 hour, add 2 oz of bleach when i leave. swg does the rest?
according to the main post on sanitation an avg person would use 7ppm per hour, so in your case 14ppm. that would mean the SWG would have to account for probably half of the total 14ppm burned (i was thinking 3ppm plus 3ppm from your 2oz add).
If thats the case im not getting anywhere near that.