Fiberglass pool reclamation project
- Thread starter shellsingleton
- Start date
Whew. Busy day. Got all of the plumbing done aside from the pieces that will connect the 3-way valves. Even had to make a last minute Lowe’s run to grab another 1/4 turn valve.
The existing plumbing was wasted, leaks, shoddy repairs(not by me). I took it all out, down about 12” below ground and replaced with new.
The equipment is about 4’ below the surface of the pool. I built some plugs from pool noodles, 1/2”x6” bolts and some paracord. Was able to make the cuts, plug the flood and then stalk on using couplers in the dry pipe above the plug. I added 1/4 turn valves on all 4 return and supply lines. They are going to cure over night, then I’ll pull the plugs out through the valves in the AM and close the valves to finish the plumbing. Those valves should have been a part of the original build plan.
I was able to locate the equipment so that I have room to add a prefilter later if I choose, and a heater as well. Gave the ChlorSync the 15” of straight pipe before the inlet as listed in the manual. The coupler flanges for the pump inlet and SWG outlet line up nicely albeit at different heights, which I’m fine with. Ended up using the long sweep 90° fittings, mostly for aesthetics I guess.
Brushed in a jug of 10% at 0630, 330pm and 1030pm. FC was setting at 11.5 ppm tonight before I added the jug.
The existing plumbing was wasted, leaks, shoddy repairs(not by me). I took it all out, down about 12” below ground and replaced with new.
The equipment is about 4’ below the surface of the pool. I built some plugs from pool noodles, 1/2”x6” bolts and some paracord. Was able to make the cuts, plug the flood and then stalk on using couplers in the dry pipe above the plug. I added 1/4 turn valves on all 4 return and supply lines. They are going to cure over night, then I’ll pull the plugs out through the valves in the AM and close the valves to finish the plumbing. Those valves should have been a part of the original build plan.
I was able to locate the equipment so that I have room to add a prefilter later if I choose, and a heater as well. Gave the ChlorSync the 15” of straight pipe before the inlet as listed in the manual. The coupler flanges for the pump inlet and SWG outlet line up nicely albeit at different heights, which I’m fine with. Ended up using the long sweep 90° fittings, mostly for aesthetics I guess.
Brushed in a jug of 10% at 0630, 330pm and 1030pm. FC was setting at 11.5 ppm tonight before I added the jug.
Not much to report this morning. Clarity is about the same, kinda surprised at that, thought the particles would settle out to bottom as the pool sat with no circulation for 24 hours.
I’m back on the plumbing, I’ll have the 3-ways installed in an hour or so, will wire it while the solvent cures. Hoping to have everything up and running by 1030 or so.
FC was 22.5 ppm this am, gonna let it ride until the system’s back up. Will add LC, CYA and salt at that time.
I’m back on the plumbing, I’ll have the 3-ways installed in an hour or so, will wire it while the solvent cures. Hoping to have everything up and running by 1030 or so.
FC was 22.5 ppm this am, gonna let it ride until the system’s back up. Will add LC, CYA and salt at that time.
That was the most nerve-wracking and rewarding project I’ve done in a while. Nerve-wracking because the crazy supply and return line angles made it super hard to install the 3-way valves, had to put some serious torque to get things lined up, felt like I was going to break something or at least end up with a leak. No leaks at all, but I’ll be waking up every 3 hours tonight to check on it just in case. Those are the original angles the supply and return lines were installed at, they had to have torqued them over into place back then like I had to today. Worked since 1997, should be ok but I’ll be keeping a close eye anyway over the next few days.
Rewarding because that pump puts out more volume at 2200 rpm than the old pump did at 3450 rpm, so quiet I can’t even hear it 20’ away at the pool. It’s awesome not to have any leaks now too.
I just added 1.75 pounds of CYA via a sock in the skimmer basket and two jugs of 10%. FC was sitting at 30 ppm, measured at 10pm. I’ll check the CYA in the AM.
I programmed the pump to run for 23:45 at 3200 rpm during the SLAM. I hope that’s not too much for it, I don’t want it to overheat. I’ll be cleaning the cartridge filter tomorrow. The new pump pushes it at 21 PSI at 3450 RPM, the old pump was at 9 PSI same rpm. I think I’ll go reprogram it to run tonight at 2200 rpm just in case.
Rewarding because that pump puts out more volume at 2200 rpm than the old pump did at 3450 rpm, so quiet I can’t even hear it 20’ away at the pool. It’s awesome not to have any leaks now too.
I just added 1.75 pounds of CYA via a sock in the skimmer basket and two jugs of 10%. FC was sitting at 30 ppm, measured at 10pm. I’ll check the CYA in the AM.
I programmed the pump to run for 23:45 at 3200 rpm during the SLAM. I hope that’s not too much for it, I don’t want it to overheat. I’ll be cleaning the cartridge filter tomorrow. The new pump pushes it at 21 PSI at 3450 RPM, the old pump was at 9 PSI same rpm. I think I’ll go reprogram it to run tonight at 2200 rpm just in case.
May need some advice from you folks. I want to change out the electrical box at the equipment but I want to future-proof it when I do.
I have an old Intermatic timer box right now, seen better days.
I’ll be studying the electrical requirements of the SuperFlo and the CS30 tonight. I’m pretty sure the SuperFlo stated it should be on a GFIC and right now it’s not.
I also want to add some type of remote control in the future with a remote pad by the door and WiFi, preferably something that can be integrated into Apple’s HomeKit.
I may add a heater later, not sure what else, so I need a bit of room for expansion for these things.
In addition to the electrical box recommendation, what control systems should I be looking at? The Pentair manual that came with the pump states it can be controlled remotely by either digital inputs or RS-485. This manual covers the VS, the VST and the Supermax VS.
I had found a Pentair manual on their website for only the SuperFlo VS and it only mentions digital inputs. It recommended the External Control Wiring Kit (Pentair P/N 353129Z).
As long as I use this wiring kit, can I use a different control system or do I have to go with Pentair?
I have a long way to go with research on this subject.
I have an old Intermatic timer box right now, seen better days.
I’ll be studying the electrical requirements of the SuperFlo and the CS30 tonight. I’m pretty sure the SuperFlo stated it should be on a GFIC and right now it’s not.
I also want to add some type of remote control in the future with a remote pad by the door and WiFi, preferably something that can be integrated into Apple’s HomeKit.
I may add a heater later, not sure what else, so I need a bit of room for expansion for these things.
In addition to the electrical box recommendation, what control systems should I be looking at? The Pentair manual that came with the pump states it can be controlled remotely by either digital inputs or RS-485. This manual covers the VS, the VST and the Supermax VS.
I had found a Pentair manual on their website for only the SuperFlo VS and it only mentions digital inputs. It recommended the External Control Wiring Kit (Pentair P/N 353129Z).
As long as I use this wiring kit, can I use a different control system or do I have to go with Pentair?
I have a long way to go with research on this subject.
Good morning. No leaks on the equipment pad. 
Lost about two inches through the crack in the bottom of the pool. Need to figure out which epoxy I will use to repair that.
FC loss last night was 3 ppm from 10pm to 6am(30 ppm to 27 pm).
Sock in the skimmer is still full of CYA, about to go expedite that before the sun gets going. Gonna clean the cartridges also.
Lost about two inches through the crack in the bottom of the pool. Need to figure out which epoxy I will use to repair that.
FC loss last night was 3 ppm from 10pm to 6am(30 ppm to 27 pm).
Sock in the skimmer is still full of CYA, about to go expedite that before the sun gets going. Gonna clean the cartridges also.
Cartridges are clean. Added CYA. CYA tests to around 57 but I still suspect water cloudiness may be contributing. I really hope it’s not that high. I’ve lost 3 ppm FC from 0600-1000 today (30-27ppm)so maybe that indicates lower CYA?
I’m going to get some white JB WaterWeld putty today and try to repair the crack.
I’m going to get some white JB WaterWeld putty today and try to repair the crack.
clambert1273
Gold Supporter
- Jun 13, 2013
- 1,493
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
If your CYA is 60, your SLAM target is 24 isn’t it? No need to waste chlorine above 24
My thought was that I don’t know what all I’m fighting since it sat for so long, could be something like mustard algae in the mix which would require higher then normal levels of chlorine for a shock or SLAM. I want to make sure it gets done and done as quickly as feasible. I really doubt my CYA is actually 60, so technically I could use a lower dose of chlorine but I don’t want to waste time.
I’d have to go find it but the advice e seemed to be that FC above SLAM levels degrades much faster, doesn’t do much extra cleaning, and risks damaging equipment (liners, etc). Just be careful.
Hope you have better luck with JB Water Weld than I did, but perhaps I didn't prep the surface well enough. Ended up having my 2 cracks professionally repaired last year. Reviving out of service pool: crack repair
Thanks for the heads up, I’ll try to find the details.
I plan to sand it through the gelcoat to bare fiberglass, we will see how it goes. At least it’s in the shallow end.
IF you have mustard algae you treat that after the slam is completed. When the pool is clear and you are at recommended levels and still notice mustard algae growing you bump up to mustard algae levels for 24 hours and throw all the pool toys, nets, vacuum, everything that was in the water when mustard algae was discovered and leave it for 24 hours. FC loss is exponential, so bumping it more than a couple of ppm above slam level is not helping your situation.
Didn’t check the FC today for 11 hours and I let it fall to 9 ppm. Added a jug & 1/2, raised to 25 ppm, just verified it.
Didn’t make it to get the WaterWeld today, took my boy snorkeling instead. No regrets.
Added salt today, the app said I’d need 5- 40# bags + 34 lbs to raise it from 400ppm to 3200ppm. Added 6- 40# bags. I’ve checked it twice now and both times it came out 4200. That’s a lot higher than I intended. Will be interested to see what the ChlorSync reads when I wire it up over the weekend.
On the bright side, my boy was super excited to finally see the bottom on the deep end(~6’)this evening.
When I started this project, he asked how long it would take and I told him “Hopefully by the 19th it will be swimmable.” I may have guessed correctly.
Didn’t make it to get the WaterWeld today, took my boy snorkeling instead. No regrets.
Added salt today, the app said I’d need 5- 40# bags + 34 lbs to raise it from 400ppm to 3200ppm. Added 6- 40# bags. I’ve checked it twice now and both times it came out 4200. That’s a lot higher than I intended. Will be interested to see what the ChlorSync reads when I wire it up over the weekend.
On the bright side, my boy was super excited to finally see the bottom on the deep end(~6’)this evening.
When I started this project, he asked how long it would take and I told him “Hopefully by the 19th it will be swimmable.” I may have guessed correctly.FC loss was 3ppm last night, added half a jug this morning to go with the makeup water.
I can see every square inch of my pool again. Thank you for the advice and encouragement TFP folks!
I can see every square inch of my pool again. Thank you for the advice and encouragement TFP folks!
I have a leak from a flange on my SWG now.
I turned off the pump, verified no pressure and tightened it another quarter turn. Tightening made it worse.
Took it apart, removed and cleaned O-ring, cleaned the O-ring groove, applied way more Magic Lube than it should need and tightened a hair past comfortable. Still a steady drip. I’m afraid something has cracked.
I turned off the pump, verified no pressure and tightened it another quarter turn. Tightening made it worse.
Took it apart, removed and cleaned O-ring, cleaned the O-ring groove, applied way more Magic Lube than it should need and tightened a hair past comfortable. Still a steady drip. I’m afraid something has cracked.
inspect the O-ring. Usually overtightening it will pinch it.
Mine gave me headaches every year until I recalibrated what I considered ‘tight’. Snug would be a better term for pool plumbing as it’s so easy to overtighten.
If the O-ring isn’t visibly damaged/ pinched / flattened / etc, try it again but only tighten it snug. Fire it up and when it drips do 1/16 turns until it hopefully stops.
Mine gave me headaches every year until I recalibrated what I considered ‘tight’. Snug would be a better term for pool plumbing as it’s so easy to overtighten.
If the O-ring isn’t visibly damaged/ pinched / flattened / etc, try it again but only tighten it snug. Fire it up and when it drips do 1/16 turns until it hopefully stops.
I hope you are right, and that will be my immediate path forward, maybe try an oversized O-ring if one is available, the groove doesn’t look like it will accept one much thicker though so that may not be an option... I’ve done a lot of work with O-ring type connections, and I didn’t like how these had to come together. Due to the offset angles of the original install, I had to rely on tension to square it up rather than putting a relaxed fit together and just snugging it.