Fiberglass pool reclamation project

[Newdude]

the groove doesn’t look like it will accept one much thicker though so that may not be an option

Yeah, I don’t think that works because the tolerances are so little.

Due to the offset angles of the original install, I had to rely on tension to square it up rather than putting a relaxed fit together and just snugging it.

My exact issues after a while. They were installed ok but my filter was on one of those pre-cast pads and that settled after a few seasons making the pipes just a hair off from plumb. The tight side would flatten if i tightened it to much and that’s where I learned to start loose (snug) and have a better chance of finding the sweet spot.

 

[zea3]

Did the fitting come apart at any time? I thought the flat edge of the ring goes toward the object being joined.

 

[shellsingleton]

Did the fitting come apart at any time? I thought the flat edge of the ring goes toward the object being joined.

Zea, I think it depends on how the joint is designed. This one needs the flat flange to pull against the backside of the unthreaded fitting to mate against the sealing surface of the threaded fitting on the CS30.

 

[shellsingleton]

Newdude,
I’m going to change the O-ring and see
If that helps. I may need to add couplers to lengthen the tubing and line it up better left/right. Basically let the outlets’ 3-way dictate where the fitting gets made up regardless of how out of square/unparalleled the plumbing run is.
I am going to inspect the CS30 really closely to make sure the inlet fitting isn’t cracked. That’s what I’m really worried about.

 

[shellsingleton]

Inspected and all looks good, no cracks evident. Cleaned and lubed the flanges and o-rings, lengthened a run of tubing about 2” to make the unions line up easily. Letting everything cure now.
Spent the day on the town with my daughter, pool sat neglected all day. No regrets .
FC is at 7.5 ppm right now.I’ll add chlorine in a couple hours when I kick the pump on.
CYA is PITA to measure accurately. I changed locations to read it and in doing so, got rid of the glare on top of the water. Now what read 60, reads less than 30. I even had my wife repeat the test and she got 35, and I could still see the dot when she handed it to me. If I retest in the old spot where the glare hits the surface, 60. I’m thinking my CYA is actually around 30, since I lost 14.5 ppm FC today.

 

[shellsingleton]

About to go to the pool store to see if they have a replacement flange that will work for the CS30. After I turned it on last night, the union leaked worse than ever, spraying actually. But it allowed me to find the crack along the bottom of the flange I glued to the PVC pipe. Was glad to see it wasn’t the SWG itself.
If they can’t help me, then I will bypass the SWG until I can get the right flange set mailed to me Because today is Opening Day.
I bumped up the FC last night to 12.5, this morning it was at 12, with just the faintest hint of pink when I tested for CC. i will continue to raise it to slam levels overnight until FC loss is zero but it’s good enough to swim in now I think. Let me know if you disagree.
I will also be getting some more stabilizer at the pool store.

 

[Newdude]

I bumped up the FC last night to 12.5, this morning it was at 12, with just the faintest hint of pink when I tested for CC.

So you passed. That would be a .5 FC loss (1 is the limit) and less than .5 CCs.

I forget (sorry). Is the water clear ? That’s the first of the 3 exit criteria

Also you can swim, up to and including SLAM if you can see the bottom for swimmer safety, so enjoy.

 

[shellsingleton]

Yep, clear

 

[clambert1273]

You did It!!!!

 

[Bperry]

Yep, clear
View attachment 347226

Still looks a little green/hazy in the picture? Maybe just needs more filter time.

 

[dianedebuda]

Gettin' close! Enjoy your opening.

 

[shellsingleton]

Thank y’all! Yes, it was more clear when the filter was running, we will swim then slam at night for a few days until I get consistent acceptable loss and clarity. Very happy to have met my date though, about to go swap unions and air up the mattresses while it cures.

 

[shellsingleton]

Happy Father’s Day to all the pool dads!
FC loss is still less than .5, CC is barely registering, pool is clear, pad is dry.
I’ll be installing the SWG wiring tomorrow. Grabbed some 20A 2-pole breakers, a 100A load center that accepts 6 circuit breakers. Plenty of room for future expansions

 

[crimson avenger]

Happy Father’s Day to all the pool dads!
FC loss is still less than .5, CC is barely registering, pool is clear, pad is dry.
I’ll be installing the SWG wiring tomorrow. Grabbed some 20A 2-pole breakers, a 100A load center that accepts 6 circuit breakers. Plenty of room for future expansions

Sounds good. Is your pool perfectly clear?

 

[shellsingleton]

Yep, clear as can be

 

[crimson avenger]

Yep, clear as can be

Awesome. Glad to hear you got that cleaned up so quickly! Not all of us are so lucky!

 

[shellsingleton]

About to hop in and try to scrub the stains off the walls. I’ll chlorinate strongly afterward. I scrubbed the top rail and dry sides today. Brightened it up a bit.

 

[reggiehammond]

May need some advice from you folks. I want to change out the electrical box at the equipment but I want to future-proof it when I do.
I have an old Intermatic timer box right now, seen better days.
I’ll be studying the electrical requirements of the SuperFlo and the CS30 tonight. I’m pretty sure the SuperFlo stated it should be on a GFIC and right now it’s not.
I also want to add some type of remote control in the future with a remote pad by the door and WiFi, preferably something that can be integrated into Apple’s HomeKit.
I may add a heater later, not sure what else, so I need a bit of room for expansion for these things.

In addition to the electrical box recommendation, what control systems should I be looking at? The Pentair manual that came with the pump states it can be controlled remotely by either digital inputs or RS-485. This manual covers the VS, the VST and the Supermax VS.
I had found a Pentair manual on their website for only the SuperFlo VS and it only mentions digital inputs. It recommended the External Control Wiring Kit (Pentair P/N 353129Z).
As long as I use this wiring kit, can I use a different control system or do I have to go with Pentair?
I have a long way to go with research on this subject.

With a VS pump and SWCG; it’s so easy just to set it to a minimum RPM needed for the SWCG and just run it 24/7. No need for automation then and it consumes so little electricity, there’s almost no negatives to running this way.

With that said, I’m not aware of any HomeKit switches or outlets that can handle 230v which I’m sure your Superflo is running off of.

My pool is very simple, like yours, so I have no need for automation which frees up the ability to use different manufacturers’ equipment on the same pad.

 

[shellsingleton]

Thanks for your insight Reggie. I’m kinda leaning the same way but I’d like to be able to change pump speeds remotely, turn on pool lights, change SWG output level, etc. I’m controlling the CS30 via the AutoPilot PoolSync WiFi device, and could use that to control one of their AquaCal heaters as well but it would be nice to have all the equipment bundled into one app, instead of ala carte.
I installed the subpanel and got the CS30 operational tonight. FC is currently at 2 ppm, I have the SuperFlo VS pump set at 1400 rpm and set the CS30 at 25% output for the night to see how the FC looks in the morning.

Was surprised to find out how much I had diluted the salt by adding makeup water, it was down to 1600 or so. Had to add again before the SWG would function. Added 160 lbs. Tested out to 4200 ppm 1.5 hours later, the CS30 is reading it at 3630 ppm. I’ll test again in the AM.
I really need to address the leaks I guess. Adding at least 6”/day. Need to check the CYA also.

 

[shellsingleton]

FC was up 1 ppm for a total of 3 ppm FC after 7 hours of runtime at 25%. Bumped it up to 40% for the daylight hours until I can add some stabilizer. CYA is at 25 ppm due to the makeup water dilution.
Huge differential between the TFTest results for salt vs what the CS30 is reporting. CS30 reports 3660 ppm, TFTest result was 4600. If the TFTest salt result early last night(2000 ppm)was accurate then adding 4 bags should have brought it up to 3900 ppm. I have added around 6” of water since then so it should diluted a bit further. I’m thinking the CS30 reading is more believable than the test kit results? I am being careful to catch the drop count at the first change to salmon.