Fiberglass pool reclamation project

FC was up 1 ppm for a total of 3 ppm FC after 7 hours of runtime at 25%. Bumped it up to 40% for the daylight hours until I can add some stabilizer. CYA is at 25 ppm due to the makeup water dilution.
Huge differential between the TFTest results for salt vs what the CS30 is reporting. CS30 reports 3660 ppm, TFTest result was 4600. If the TFTest salt result early last night(2000 ppm)was accurate then adding 4 bags should have brought it up to 3900 ppm. I have added around 6” of water since then so it should diluted a bit further. I’m thinking the CS30 reading is more believable than the test kit results? I am being careful to catch the drop count at the first change to salmon.
My SWCG also reads way off. It seems to be a common theme. I trust the drop test.
 
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I just keep the SWG happy and don't bother with salt testing except as an occasional reference. And I just use salt test strips - sacrilege to some, I know - 'cause I don't feel this is something I need to measure precisely .
 
My SWCG also reads way off. It seems to be a common theme. I trust the drop test.
And I just use salt test strips - sacrilege to some, I know - 'cause I don't feel this is something I need to measure precisely
The irony of the more accurate Taylor drop test is that no matter what you have to keep the SWG happy, even if it’s wrong (which it always is). So I don’t even bother. I set it up at the beginning of the season and then rely on the idiot light to inform me I need half a bag of salt. ‘Did that shut it up ? Oh goodie it did !! Lalalalalalala’.
 
Too late but thank you. 👍🏻
Everything was fine when I left it on while I added the 160 pounds.
I think it was because it had pity on me for the stitches I needed after slicing my pinkie while stripping the wire for the subpanel that afternoon.
Won’t be doing that again. Salting with SWG on or letting hurry make me stupid with my knife.
 
Wow. Can algae blooms occur in less than two hours?!
I tried using water from the well today for makeup water, added about 4-5” in about an hour and a half. At one hour, there was no issue with clarity, no change that I could see. In between 60-90 minutes of fill time, this occurred. Seemed almost immediate, so I’m wondering if I didn’t catch a pocket of tainted water or something?
The hose was flowing clear water when I pulled it, not yellow or green. FC is at 4.5 ppm with maybe .25 CC, hardly any color change when I added the 5 drops of R-003, just the faintest tint of pink.
I’m going to throw a jug of 10% in there to see if I can stop it.1D0C1AF5-C41D-49B8-9C2A-CDFA2F06E503.jpeg
 
Wow. Can algae blooms occur in less than two hours?!
I tried using water from the well today for makeup water, added about 4-5” in about an hour and a half. At one hour, there was no issue with clarity, no change that I could see. In between 60-90 minutes of fill time, this occurred. Seemed almost immediate, so I’m wondering if I didn’t catch a pocket of tainted water or something?
The hose was flowing clear water when I pulled it, not yellow or green. FC is at 4.5 ppm with maybe .25 CC, hardly any color change when I added the 5 drops of R-003, just the faintest tint of pink.
I’m going to throw a jug of 10% in there to see if I can stop it.View attachment 349058
What’s your CYA level now? 4.5FC sounds awfully close to not enough.
 
Well that was close. FC loss was 1 ppm last night, .5 ppm registered for CC. FC is way higher than what you guys recommend but I was in a slight panic over the green. I knocked the CS30 output down to 5% at dark last night, the pump been running at 3200 rpm. Seems to have worked. I will be getting in it this afternoon to assess and apply epoxy to the crack in the bottom. I will also get some more stabilizer finally. Kinda wanna let the sun burn off the excess chlorine during the day today, will add CYA tonight. Happy to say the water is clear again and temp is up to 85°.592D40E1-CE56-48FB-BED0-F5F6C62AB0E1.jpeg
 

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I have a leak from a flange on my SWG now.
I turned off the pump, verified no pressure and tightened it another quarter turn. Tightening made it worse.
Took it apart, removed and cleaned O-ring, cleaned the O-ring groove, applied way more Magic Lube than it should need and tightened a hair past comfortable. Still a steady drip. I’m afraid something has cracked. 🤬View attachment 346922
How much space was there between the union and the cell before tightening the nut? Do you still have the failed unions? Could you upload a picture of them if possible? Thanks!
 
How much space was there between the union and the cell before tightening the nut? Do you still have the failed unions? Could you upload a picture of them if possible? Thanks!
I already threw the cracked union away. It was off by a full flange side to side when I put it together the first time
 
FC was up 1 ppm for a total of 3 ppm FC after 7 hours of runtime at 25%. Bumped it up to 40% for the daylight hours until I can add some stabilizer. CYA is at 25 ppm due to the makeup water dilution.
Huge differential between the TFTest results for salt vs what the CS30 is reporting. CS30 reports 3660 ppm, TFTest result was 4600. If the TFTest salt result early last night(2000 ppm)was accurate then adding 4 bags should have brought it up to 3900 ppm. I have added around 6” of water since then so it should diluted a bit further. I’m thinking the CS30 reading is more believable than the test kit results? I am being careful to catch the drop count at the first change to salmon.
I would trust the test kit over the cell; perhaps consider grabbing a sample from 5 different spots, mixing them together, then using a sample from that composite to test in the Taylor test.

When I change the speed on my VS pump, I can watch the Circupool salinity move around quite a bit, which shows me that the water isn't perfectly mixed at all times. Different temperatures of the water column can have different salinities. But basically if your SWG is happy and producing, the actual number isn't that important.
 
It’s going really well, easiest time I have ever had taking care of one, once I got swamp out of it. SWG is the way to go, I’m sold.
The WiFi capability on the CS30 is awesome. I’m away at work right now but was able to check the salt level and ask my daughter to salt the pool today. I wish someone made a pump with WiFi capability like that.
I have the refill hose set up on a WiFi module also, B-Hyve. Very convenient, tells me when it has completed a fill cycle. And I can hit it manually if I see it’s in a rain delay. I wish there was a way to turn off the rain delay.
I do think I need to continue searching for leaks. I fixed the crack in the pool but I’m still adding about 4-6” per day. Way more than I think evaporation would cause. Enough to cause dilution on my CYA and salt levels.
 
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That would be a lot even with evaporation. You can do the food coloring test around the skimmer, returns, and light to see if they are leaking. With the pump off slowly squirt food coloring around the seam where the fittings meet the pool surface and watch for any color to be sucked in. If there is no leak the food coloring will just dissipate.
 
Last Tuesday I leak-checked all the fittings, skimmer etc again like Zea described, with the pump off. Found no clear indication of a leak. I felt like I was doing it wrong because even the crack(prior to epoxy repair) had never shown a strong indication of suction.
Then I pulled the light. The penetrator had so much flow going through it that it would pull the dye from 3” away, it would even pull bubbles from about an inch away.
I’m happy to report that since I plugged it with JB WaterWeld, my fill time/day has gone done from 2 hours to 20 minutes, and I haven’t added salt in 5 days. Huge improvement.
Thank you for suggesting the niche Zea, I had avoided it due to the age of the fixture but removal and reinstall went smoothly, everything was in good shape.
 
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