Draining and bringing down the waterline?

[Lake Placid]

Gotcha. Have you tested for salt? That’s the first place to start with the generator.

 

[PoolStored]

75 for CYA. I see ideal is between 70-80

I would test your pH now at FC 9.5. If you can, I would turn on/up the SWCG and see if is working overnight. Can you turn it on?

You might want to target 60. This will give you a SLAM level of 24. Remember safe to swim and to equipment up to slam. You can run your SWCG a bit hot while you are gone and come back to up to an FC of 24 at CYA of 60. It is also WAAAAAY easier to SLAM at 60. If you come back to algae, SLAM is Harder at 70-80 and you likely will end up draining some and replacing water to get it down before SLAM. 60 is a good compromise.

 

[PoolStored]

Thinking about it again, after @Lake Placid's comment, I'd wait to add the CYA until you confirm your cell is working. If you raise your CYA now, you will really be stuck, as your only vacation option, if cell is not working, is pucks. No way they will keep up for two weeks if your CYA is 60.

Keep the CYA out, run your cell tonight overnight (your FC demand at night is <1) So test FC after dark, turn your SWCG up to 100%, make sure timing will run all night, then test FC again in the morning. This will tell us if your cell is up to snuff.

If it is up to the task, then we can add CYA.

 

[tsar]

Ok Ill do that. Will run swcg tonight and do a full test panel as well.

 

[tsar]

Do i need any other chemicals. It says borax to increase ph? And calcium chloride for calcium hardness?

 

[PoolStored]

Ok Ill do that. Will run swcg tonight and do a full test panel as well.

You added enough salt to get to the low end of the range for your cell. 2800. Many cells read +/- 500ppm. If your cell reads low salt when you fire it up, add that last bag of salt, that may make the difference. Make sure you have your pump running when you add any chemical including salt. Unlike adding 4 bags, when you add one bag, no need to turn off SWCG.

 

[PoolStored]

Do i need any other chemicals. It says borax to increase ph? And calcium chloride for calcium hardness?

Post a full set of results and then we can review and make recommendations. I stocked up on all of the recommended chemicals. I've never had to use borax once. It's cheap if you want to buy some, but may not be necessary.

Post #72 in this thread is likely what you need:

Draining and bringing down the waterline?

You may have been over pressuring the separation tank if it was full, sending DE back into the pool. Inspect the bag carefully when cleaning it out for any rips, tears etc.

www.troublefreepool.com

Here is the set of generally recommended chemicals:

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[PoolStored]

Just for fun, can I get a like from every popcorn eater in the peanut gallery? Let’s see how many we get..

 

[Lake Placid]

Post a full set of results and then we can review and make recommendations. I stocked up on all of the recommended chemicals. I've never had to use borax once. It's cheap if you want to buy some, but may not be necessary.

Post #72 in this thread is likely what you need:

Draining and bringing down the waterline?

You may have been over pressuring the separation tank if it was full, sending DE back into the pool. Inspect the bag carefully when cleaning it out for any rips, tears etc.

www.troublefreepool.com

Here is the set of generally recommended chemicals:

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

It’s more likely you’ll be managing rising ph down.

 

[tsar]

Fyi- The flow led of swcg is still red. The salt level is flashing green and red.

 

[Lake Placid]

That’s normal for the first 5 minutes on startup. The railroad flashing will stop after it initializes.

 

[Lake Placid]

After it settles in what lights are on?

 

[tsar]

FC -9.5
CC- 0
CYA - 30
Ph - 7.1 (should it have been more ?)
CH - 100

I need to put at least 4lb of CYA to get me to 60. I'm putting that in the sock and into the skimmer now.

@Lake Placid - it's still the same, so maybe I'll check it in a few more minutes and get back to you guys?

 

[Lake Placid]

FC -9.5
CC- 0
CYA - 30
Ph - 7.1 (should it have been more ?)
CH - 100

I need to put at least 4lb of CYA to get me to 60. I'm putting that in the sock and into the skimmer now.

@Lake Placid - it's still the same, so maybe I'll check it in a few more minutes and get back to you guys?

Yeah check it in a few and let us know. Are you running a single speed pump or variable speed?

 

[Lake Placid]

@tsar read up on @PoolStored post 143. Slow down on adding CYA until we get your generator sorted.

 

[PoolStored]

I need to put at least 4lb of CYA to get me to 60. I'm putting that in the sock and into the skimmer now.

I'd hold off on the CYA until we know your cell is sorted.

 

[tsar]

Gotcha

 

[PoolStored]

Ph - 7.1 (should it have been more ?)

Nope. This is great and I wouldn't touch it. Any pH that starts with a 7 is just fine. Your pH will likely rise while you are gone, better to leave with it low.

 

[tsar]

Regarding the SWCG - The flow LED in status is still red. And the lights for salt level continue flashing red and green.

 

[Lake Placid]

Regarding the SWCG - The flow LED in status is still red. And the lights for salt level continue flashing red and green.

What’s your salinity level?